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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Glove box door

Well a glove box needs a door so that was next. I wanted to use a old mustang or Falcon glove box latch button that had a key. I believe it end up being for a Falcon. Then I designed the door kind of around the latch:001_smile:

I also wanted to have the Daytona script on it along with the letters SC for Super Coupe. Someone on this forum got me a copy of the script, I think it was a DXF file any how thank you, I don't remember who it was. So after I machined the glove box door, I powder coated it (Eastwood cheap gun and used appliance store cheap electric oven) then set it back up and engraved it with Daytona SC.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
dash pad

For the top of the dash/dash pad I used .040" thick aluminum sheet, same as what's used on all of the cockpit interior. I laid it out using card board then transferred it to the alum sheet. The dash is held down with hidden tapered head screws. They are attached to the back of the top 3/4 x 3/4. Square tube for the dash. The dash pad has holes that have slots incorporated into them. Looks like a skeleton key hole. When the dash pad is put in place, the fixed screw heads pass through the hole then the pad is pushed back and the screw slides down the slot. The head of the bolt will then hold the dash pad down. The front of the dash pad wedges between the wind shield an the body where the body supports the dash.

There will be 1 screw on each side of the dash pad that passes through the top but is in a inconspicuous place.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Dash Pad Front Radius

I also attached a piece of aluminum tube to the front of the dash pad. This one is 3/4" in diameter. I will also have this sprayed with Urethane foam and then shape it and cover it with Leather or Vinyl.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Break time

Well I'm ready to take a break. So enjoy, and I will post about the emergency brake relocate later.


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Emergency brake

Ok, I don't have pictures of some of the in progress, but I do have some showing after mounted. The emergency brake setup from FFR probably works OK, but this was one that I just thought they should have went a little farther. Routing the cables under the frame rail and rubbing on the frame rail just wasn't for me. I'm not throwing stones, it's just my take. I also thought I would like the handle closer to me. I realize in the originals it is down on the floor. So that being said, since I already paid for the EB from FFR I decide to use as much of it as I could. I made a couple of round bosses that are internally threaded (M8x1.25 if I remember correctly) and I bolted them to the EB mount then clamped them in place and tack welded them. Then I un-bolted the EB and finish welded it. I also made up a new attachment piece that clamps onto the cables and holds them to the EB but allows them to swivel as you apply the EB.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
EB. continued

On the rear brakes I decide to use Lincoln Mark VIII rear rotors and calipers. The rotor are 11.25 if I remember correctly and the caliper has a larger piston than the Thunderbird caliper. A couple issues with doing this: one you have to build an adapter bracket for the caliper mount and two the caliper is setup on the emergency brake arm so that the inner cable is stationary and the outer casing moves. In other words the outer casing is push on the EB arm of the caliper. Because of this the cables move around as they are applied, especially out at the caliper. So I made some troughs out of splitting aluminum tube in half. And this kind of guides the cable where I want it to go, but still allows it to move. It's kind of a tight bend out at the tire, but they work fine. In the pictures you will also see the caliper bracket adapters.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
While we are on brakes, the front brakes are currently FFR supply rotors and calipers. If I need more stopping power I think I will go to 13" Cobra front brakes. That's the thought anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
WIRING. "The big undertaking"

Ok, somewhere along this build, probably about right now in the build I had to open up the engine/trans wiring harness from the 97' Ford Explorer. These never came with manual trans, so I had to open it up and see what I wanted to keep and what I didn't. Most of the wires that went from the 104 pin EEC module to the trans I removed from the EEC connector and re-purposed them to do something else because I wanted to use the large connector in the harness as a firewall bulkhead connector. The wires that became available got used for other things like dash gauge signal wires, solenoid wire to starter, and other things. I kept the Speedo wires, reverse light wires, neutral safety, you get the idea. This was a large undertaking merging the Ron Francis with the Jim special one off Ford setup. I ended up adding another fuse box/relay box into the glove compartment. It kind of started out neat, but it's really hard to keep that way when your try to merge two different harnesses. Oh well it's behind the dash:001_smile: All of the connections were soldered and shrink wrapped so even though it looks a little messy there should never be any problems. Not sure what else to say about it. Enjoy the crazy pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
wiring continued

A few more. You can see in some of these that I had to remove the old injector connectors and solder on new ones for the smaller injectors. I'm using Cadillac CTSV injectors BTW. I need really small injectors to fit in my package space. I also had to change the lengths of some of the other wires just because my setup is different than the Ford explorer. You'll see that I moved the coils back behind the motor to get them out of the way, which meant re-routing the coil wires.



If you have questions feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Engine

Well I finally made it to a topic that everybody typically likes. My Engine is a 97' 5.0l Ford explorer. It was picked because it has DIS which eliminates having a big distributor in the way of my SC snout. The motor is bored .030" over, it has Forged pistons with valve reliefs that yielding approximately 9 to 1 compression. The rods are Scat because there slightly more money than reconditioning the old rods and they are beefier. The crank is a 28oz Eagle cast steel crank with standard stroke, slightly beefier than stock. I'm using studs and a girdle on the mains and studs to hold the heads down. Cam shaft is from Comp Cams. It's a hydraulic roller cam with a supercharger intended grind and has 114deg lobe separation. If you really want to know the specs I'll have to look at the cam card I don't remember that was awhile ago. Heads were purchased as bare Patriot performance heads, which I thoroughly measured over and installed Eaton Valves and Comp Cam hardware. Oh and I drilled the exhaust port flange for the wider pattern so that when I built the headers I'd have more bolt head room. The oil pan is the cast aluminum Explorer that I heavily modified and made a trap door sump in it. Hey it needed to be shortened anyway and while I was right there, I could help myself. You guys know how that goes.:001_smile: The intake is my design and a one off.
I think I'll leave it right there and let you look at the pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
oil pan

As I said in the last post it is a modified Explorer pan.

Pictures tell a thousand words and saves me from typing :001_smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Oil Pan continued

As I was working on the pan I knew that even though I was clamping it down to the bench to keep the pan rail flat it would most likely warp slightly. So when I finished welding on it, I clamped it down to a extremely flat surface (not the motor since it was assembled) then I used a large rose bud torch and brought the whole oil pan up to a high temp (approx. 400 F) then let it slowly cool then un-clamped it and problem solved. That said I knew I could not powder coat it because that may re-warp it. So I used hi temp wrinkle spray paint instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Accessory Bracket

I guess this would be next or the intake. I was pretty lucky with this because Ford put the bracket right where I needed it, it just need some additions. This bracket from the Ford Explorer only held the Alternator, 1 static idler and the Belt tensioner idler. I needed to add a boss for one more static idler and a boss to hold the Vintage Air AC compressor. This makes the belt routing picture perfect. Ideally you want the SC to be the first accessory the crank is powering because it uses the most power, then all others after due to belt stretch. My setup has the belt routed around the water pump just before the crank which works out well because it causes the belt to wrap further around the crank and it positions the belt in a good spot so I'm good with it. Then the belt continues around the SC then down around the extra idler I added to get it setup perfect to go around the alternator and giving plenty of belt wrap, then around the AC compressor, and on to the Tensioner, then back out to go around the static ford idler and back to the crank. So here are the pictures of that accessory bracket and some of the more showing the route.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
AccessoryBracket continued

Here are some more showing the other bracket made of steel that holds the other part of AC compressor, This bracket attaches under the alternator. The final picture show it in place and the routing.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Break time

Gotta take a break.

Enjoy the thread and I'll try to do some more later.


Jim
 

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Hey Jim,

Thanks for posting all this. It's a great summary well worth sharing.

I think that if I had seen this while I was still building I would have been very discouraged....now that I am done (well almost), I just feel inadequate. :(

This will be a great car!

Marc
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Marc,

Thank you for such kind words. Coming from someone who has built an amazing car it means a lot. Your car has turned out great. If mine looks that good when I'm done I will be elated. I plan on painting mine myself so I hope it goes well, but I really want to do it all myself. I have a big enough shop that I built a paint booth in part of it, so I have a place to do it versus not having that. It's not completely done yet, but it will be by the time I'm ready, I hope:). I used to paint a little bit back when I was in high school (years ago). My dad had a 40 x 40 shop that we worked on heavy equipment in and he would let me use it on the weekends for painting. I miss not having a place to paint. I was hesitant to frame in a booth because it takes up a lot of space, but I use it to store stuff or what ever, so it's not like it's un-used space so it's worked out ok.

Take care,

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #40
wind shield wiper motor placement

I almost for got to cover this. I should have done it right after the AC/heater core. Oh well here it is. I needed to mount mine out of the traditional spot, just running out of room behind dash, so I mounted it in the passenger foot box area. I placed it so that the cable comes up at an angle and makes a gentle radius up to the wiper gear boxes. The cable runs between the firewall and the heater core, just enough room to thread it through there:001_smile:

My Lucas wiper/washer switch on the steering column works great with the Lucas motor. Park works great. The switch has a moment function by pulling it down and it spring back up, this puts it through one cycle. It also has low and high. I used 5/16" steel brake line tubing for the casing.
 

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