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Discussion Starter #181 (Edited)
Next up

well I'm finally getting to the point where I can glue in the new rib for the window bulb seal to attach too. I've been waiting to do this and itching to get it done. Hopefully I can update you soon on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Door and window frame (Bulb Seal) Lip is installed

I was able to get the new seal Lip glued in place on the drivers and passengers side. This lip is what the bulb seal attaches to. I cut the old lip off that went along the roof and down the A-pillar. I used 1 x 1 x 1/8" thick fiber glass angle to create a new lip that is positioned further away from the window frames. This keeps the window frame from trying to compress the bulb seal so much, which in turn caused the window frame to be flex out away the roof line and the A-pillar. I now have a 1/2" air gap between the back of the window frame and the outside surface of the new lip.

This video is pretty shaky because I was trying to get it done without using the tripod because it wouldn't have worked well due to the angles that I needed to tip the camera at, but you'll get the idea.

https://youtu.be/W_CaPxtxxsw
 

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hi Jim,

Love your work as always.. :) Great to see the progress you are making.. :)

I had intended to vent into the cavity behind the rear wheel from the splash guard to positively pressurize these vents and add if required add a small inlet in the rear quarter panel... seeing what you have done, another option would be to add the mesh for those that had already cut the opening out or fitted the body and then blank it off from the inside with a blackened backing plate.

Mine is between the sparkie and the engine tuner at the moment.. fitting a new cam and then exhaust for ceramic coating. I have the doors to finish with alignment and glass then trim.

Enjoy the weekend.. :)

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #184
Last update for the weekend

This video covers the filling at the A pillar and at the roof line to make the body nice and flush to the outside of the window frame. It also covers filling the body around the side scoops to make them flush with the rear of the window frames and make a nice transition. Even though I moved the bulb seal lip in I still need to fill alittle. I moved the lip in as far as I could with out having it hit the roll bar and making it impossible to get the body on and off.

I hope everyone has a fantastic Fathers Day.

https://youtu.be/IzwxoSwLXYw
 

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Discussion Starter #185
More updates

I've been working on the window frames and doors. On the window frames I need to finish welding the inside of the seems. This was done using a 1/16" diameter Tungston in my TIG torch and it was still pretty tricky to get down inside the U channel. Once I had the inner seems welded as best I could, I ground it back smooth. I then needed to get the pie shaped pieces cut for the front and back of the frames where they meet the door. Once those where all welded into place I ground everything smooth. I will still need to use some body filler to get everything finished as smooth as I'd like it. So once that was done I needed to finalize how I was going to attach the outer window seal to the top of the door. I've been pondering this for awhile now. I needed to raise the area at the top of the door where the seal will sit because the window regulator comes up to just under the top edge of the current level of the top of the door. So the regulator would hit the seal if it where installed to the current height of the door. I decide to build a mold/jig that would allow me to build up the top of the door and make a nice flat surface for the seal to sit on and when it is finished it will look like a trim piece that the seal is part of. The build up was done with 3M HSRF.

The following 2 videos will explain in better detail what I did.



https://youtu.be/ebp7gE1Ce8c
https://youtu.be/cjfATo0_zro
 

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hi Jim,

Invaluable as always.. :) Thanks

Chris
 

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Holey crap Jim your passenger side airbag went off already and you haven't even taken it out of the garage yet!!??
:)

Nice job on the doors, something I would really like, but don't have the will power to do...

John
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Good one John :) I never consider that a disposable paint suit on the dash looks kinda like an air bag, kinda funny now that I look at it :)


This quest for functional windows is a ton of work. I've actually stepped back a few times and thought what the Hell was I thinking.

The sad part to me is that FFR could do this and make it affordable, but they choose not to. They have all of the CAD data so it could be all layed out on CAD then make fixtures to weld everything together and modify the molds for the doors. Once you have it on the tube it makes it so much easier. Everything layed out before any fab work is done, no back tracking or trial and error. The Gen 3 would have been a perfect opportunity.

Anyway I would love to get more feed back or if anyone has any questions or comments, that would make this thread more fun.

Looking forward to any comments.
 

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FFR said it wasnt 'possible' on both fronts Jim.. :) I guess to be more accurate.. not feasible, for them at least.. :)

I noted you built up the body around the door frame with the HD body filler... Ive heard that the filler the the fibreglass expand at different rates and you can see the filler line under the paint when this happens... is this just an inferior product to the one you are using..? Was planning to build up my edges with glass... just stick a bit of board on with hot melt then build up to the edge.

Look forward to your thoughts.

Cheers

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Chris,

Sorry I didn't see your post. I'm using 3M HSR filler. I hope I don't have a problem later, but I can't be sure. This is the same stuff that they use to fix the seems on the old black bodies which mine is.

So to answer your question fingers crossed and we'll see :) BTW it's a Vinyl Ester material, same as the body resin.
 

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hi Jim,

Is good information... :) thank you.

The fact its a similar material should lend it behave in a similar fashion.

I still may do the bulk of my build up around the doors with resin and matt.. then trim and finish with the products you are using.

Got my car back from the tuners and sparkie last week after being away since mid May.. ! Working on the door hinges and clearance as soon as I finish the front splitter I'd been fiddling with over the past few weeks. Given the amount of work to get this far am also going to attempt to make a mould, in the likely event that a corner gets taken off on the track or its attacked by a speed hump.. :)

Look forward to your updates.. :)

Cheers

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Update in the build

Here's a couple of videos of the progress made. I worked on the front inner fender wells, the radiator aluminum, mounting the hood struts, wiring the head lights and running light/turn signals.
I also wired the tail lights including the back up lights, then worked on the drivers side inner door panel.




https://youtu.be/eBIQasdjg-8

https://youtu.be/wuh8B59z9jI
 

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Discussion Starter #195
inner door latch release handles

heres a video showing what I ended up doing for my inner door latch handles/levers.
I couldn't use the FFR handles with the cables so I built a mechanism that works kinda like the old Corvettes had.

https://youtu.be/wrEQpl8xDDE
 

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Discussion Starter #196
window operation with felt in place

After talking with Chris (NorthShore2014) and the problems he was experiencing with his window operation I decide I should probably put my window felt in place and install my 1/8" aluminum window templetes and give them a try with the felt in place. The window seems to work fine which was a big relief. I only tried one side because the felt is kind of a pain to put in place and I still need to paint the frames so I didn't want to try both. This is the reason why I had been holding off on this, but I'm glad it seems to work fine.

Here's a video of the operation.




https://youtu.be/68tXepMZ-8k
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Back at it

Well, with hockey finishing up I've been hard at work again trying to get this project close to the end. I've got all of the underside of the body and hood bed liner coated to give it a finished look. I'm currently finishing up the wiring that goes out into the doors for the door poppers and the power windows, along with the actual wiring to the power window switches. I'm also finishing up the wiring for the speakers. I wanted to get this stuff done before putting the body back on for good, because it's much easier to access the dash area and door hinge area without the body in the way :) I will be finishing the body work with it in place and painting it with it on the chassis.

I'll try to post some pictures soon of the progress. Feels good to be back at it after a long break.
 

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A break is good Jim.. :) welcome back.. :)

I was supposed to be having some down time here but have been rebuilding an open wheeler for my son... just painting the last of the new sheet metal panels today.. fit them tonight or tomorrow then put it back on its trailer and I will have space to get back onto the Coupe... :)

Look forward to see you updates buddy..:)
 

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Discussion Starter #200
updates

As I mentioned before I've been working on the coupe again. Things that I've completed:
1) aluminum for the inner fender wells and the covers for the back of the head lights are all bed liner coated now.
2) I've completed the body work on the inside of the car at the rear inner fender well / back of seat area, and all of the area around the rear quarter windows and the bulb seal lip/pinch weld lip. This is all primed and has the final egg shell/matt black paint on it.
3) bottom of both the hood and the body has the bed liner sprayed on it now.
4) Door wiring looms are completed and routed through the foot box and will be attached to the outside edge of the lower door hinge inorder to route it into the doors. These looms have the door poper wiring, power window wiring and speeaker wiring enclosed in ther loom.
5) tweeter mounts fabricated onto the inner door panel for mounting the tweeters.
6) arm rest/ inner door handle/ power window switch mounts are completed
7) I've almost completed lining the interior aluminum with damper material.
This material is just like Dynamate,BUT at a much cheaper price. I purchased this material from Soundproof Cow, it's called RoadBlock R: https://www.soundproofcow.com/product/roadblockr-sound-deadening-material/

I will include pictures and video in the next post.
 
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