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Discussion Starter #1
Well better late then never :)

This is the build thread for Coupe # 487

I've been in love with the Cobra, Daytona Coupe and the GT40s for as long as I can remember. All beautiful cars. I originally wanted to build a RCR GT40.
I bought a Porsche transaxle and started planning and started designing a SBF supercharger Intake to have a super charged Gt40 :) But I came to the realization that the initial cost was just too far out of my reach, so I sold my transaxle and changed course somewhat:). Like I said I also was a really big fan of the Daytona coupe. I researched Factory Five and decide to go that route. I took delivery of my coupe on 4-20-2010. The waiting from time of order to time of delivery was a killer.

When I took delivery and started to really look it over from a body stand point, I have to be honest, I had buyers remorse :). I couldn't believe just how bad the seems are in person. But I soon got over and went to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
MN12. See 1st start Go kart stage. This is a belated build thread, I'm almost 5 years into it, but I decide to put together a complete build thread, so stay tone for how I got to where it is now :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I believe the first thing that I did was to go to the junk yard and obtain a complete rear sub frame out of a Thunderbird SC. Once I got it home I completely disassembled the spindles and the 8.8 IRS so that I could clean them, rebuild them , and of course make a few upgrades:icon18:

On the spindles I just cleaned them up and installed new bearings. On the 8.8 I knew that the weak link tends to be the carrier caps, so I had to decide what to do. A new cover with bearing supports is very expensive for the IRS 8.8, so I decided to design and machine new bearing caps instead, and keep the original cast aluminum cover. So I used 1" thick x 4" wide cold drawn bar stock and made them beefier.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's the spindles, I forgot to mention that on the spindles I re-drilled in between the old bolt pattern for the new 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Next was the front spindles and installing the rear suspension
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Just a quick note, I actually designed and machined the lower SC intake before I took delivery of the coupe, but I will post about it when I get to the motor part.

So next would have been the aluminum paneling. I decided early on that I wanted a glove compartment so I turned the FFR AC unit around backwards, which gave more room for a glove box, but by moving it forward I had to re-do part of the passenger area aluminum, and being me I thought if I have to re-do some I might as well extend the passenger foot box out as far as the drivers side, putting it in front of the lower crash bar. (FFR really needs to do this not sure why they haven't).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
heater AC positioning

As mention in the last post I located the heat/AC on the front of the Dash 2"x2" box tube, instead of the back where FFR located it. To do this you just simply turn it around and it moves it forward and gives room for the glove box :). Then I had to build some PVC duct pipes to route things in the confined space. The flexible heater duct tubes slide on these PVC pieces and continue to the dash bezels on the dash panel and the defrost/defog duct.

Here's what it looks like
 

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Discussion Starter #9
fiber glass duct and heater tubes

One of the ducts had to be kind of custom/not PVC, so I glued high density insulation board together(Polystyrene) and started cutting and shaping it to direct air to the center 2 dash panel bezels. After shaping it I used Epoxy resin and fiber glass cloth to cover it and build the duct. Once it fully cured I poured Lacquer thinner onto the styrene foam to eat it. It gets runny and you pour it out. It's kind of a mess, but it works! Then you have a custom duct:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
copper heater tubes

I used 1/2" ridge copper for my heater tubes to route from heater core out through the passenger side foot box
 

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Discussion Starter #11
More picks of heater tubes
 

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hi Jim,

Nicely done, appreciate the post.. :)

Ive also put the AC unit on the 'other' side of the cross member, but seem to be able to get the ducting through without the need for the PVC sections. I did cut back the center brace in the dash though. Will be keeping your approach in mind.. :)

Cheers

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did a double take :). Right hand drive. Then I looked at your location :)


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dash

As I said earlier I wanted a glove box and wanted the dash to be more street car looking than all out race car, so I looked at what some people had done and looked at Superformance's coupe and then started sketching and came up with the attached drawing. The designed evolved from there. First I cut out the main thin wall 3/4" x 3/4" box tube that the FFR dash sit. Then bought some more box tubing and bend up a new design and welded in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
center heater control area/radio area

So next I started building my own heater control area of the dash. Once that was done, I built panels to wrap around the under side of dash to give it that finishing touch. Both the center area and the under panels will be wrapped in vinyl or leather, not sure yet. I added a 1/2" diameter piece of aluminum tube to the front of the under panels to give a nice radius bead on the panel. I will have polyurethane foam sprayed on the panel then I will shape it base of from that front radius and tapering to the back edge of the panel, then it will be wrapped. You can see the tube formed in the last picture, just before attaching.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
One quick Note: I actually did the emergency brake handle relocate before some of this, but to keep the dash progress documented smooth, I will cover the emergency brake after the dash discussion :001_smile:

The same process was used on both sides of dash for the under panels.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Steer shaft lowered to where I wanted it

I cut the pillow block bearing mount off and then used a hole saw creatively to cut a half moon in the top of the 2x2 dash bar to accept the steering column that I planned to build. I built a actual steering column to hold my turn signal switch and wiper motor switch, I also did this to make the steering shaft more ridged, but mostly for controls. I used 1-5/8" roll cage tubing for the column and made bronze bushings to press in each end for the steering shaft to ride smoothly in. Then I machined the front of the tube to have the proper geometry for the turn signal, high beam,horn switch and wiper motor switch. BTW these are Lucas switch assembles from a Land Rover. (how'd I come up with that? Lots of internet research for what I wanted in the switch)
I also had to make a special ring that has 2 keys sticking up that locks into the turn signal cancellation feature on the turn signal switch. This ring pressed onto the quick removable steering wheel hub.

enjoy
 

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Discussion Starter #18
more steering column and wheel pics

Title says it. This shows the quick release hub attached to the wheel. Of course those won't attach to the FFR wheel, so I had to machine up an adapter hub to make it all work.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
turn signal switch assembly cover

Ok, so after getting the switches in place I needed a cover for them, so I came up with what I thought would be functional not too wizzy and out of place. I feel this fits the bill.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Dash instrument panel

In a few pictures back you saw a card board template that I used to try to figure out where all the gauges and AC/Heater ducts should be. So from there I took measurements off from the card board and created a DXF file that I sent to a laser cutting place and had them cut my instrument panel out of .080" thick sheet aluminum. Next I built my glove box out of the same aluminum sheet that I used to create my passenger side foot box.
 

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