Factory Five Racing Forum banner

181 - 200 of 241 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #181 (Edited)
Day 103 est
206 total hour est
12-05-2019

I have not had hardly any time to work on the car.

As for not starting battery dead and ground

I switched out the odyssey battery for a standard group 58 battery as recommended in the manual.

The odyssey battery was leaking fluid and the posts were not attached properly. That was the ground issue and the battery was faulty and or failed in addition to that.

I got it started back up with no problem. Yippy! Even drove it around the block a couple times

Started the process of looking at the electric behind the dash to verify everything is connected and done properly. The gauges are still funky. They move and stay in place when I shut the car off.

I called FFR and he said the connections are most likely wrong. I did manage to set the time and get the fuel gauge to the empty side instead of the full side.

I also had the clutch safety switch wired backwards. So that I had to have the car in neutral and no clutch. If the car is in gear it word jump forward. Not safe.

I reversed the wires and now it starts properly, requiring the clutch to be engaged to get the car to start.

That's it for now.

I still have a ton of behind the dash work to do before I can secure it

Drill, wire and place turn signal switch
Place horn and wire
Drill and place GPS selector
Drill and place dash dimmer
Make sure the Wiring is correct for headlights.
Redo glove box
Buy and install wipers

I still have to tighten down the headers.

Jason
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #183 (Edited)
Day 113est
220 total hour est
1-4-2020

Headlights/turn signals/hazards

With a lot of help I got all the lights and switches working properly.

For people getting ready to do this process here are a couple things I learned.

As plenty of people said

Properly ground everything.

1. The lights share harness ground wires.
2. The tail lights and parking brake lights share power wires.
3. You need at least 3 switches
A. High/low beam
B. Turn signal on/off/on
C. Hazards on/off 6 prongs
4. Flasher wires go in the middle.
5. Make sure all your fuses are working and in the the right place!!! This ultimately was my only issue.
6. Hazard/Brake fuse are the same fuse. (atleast in my head that may be simplified) That 15 fuse in the brake lights fuse spot runs both.
7. Brake light/clutch pedal switch may need to be reversed if not working.
8. Vintage GPS fuel gauge need calibrated and the gauges do not zero out when you shut them down

Next

1. Turn signal/high beam indicator seems super easy with the Vintage GPS.

2. Start thinking about drilling holes in my beutiful dash for the switches and such. I am not artistic and have a heavy hand so I hope it looked good. But that part of the build.

Jason
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #184
Day 114 est
221total hour est
1-5-2020

I got to spend an hour today and made all the indicator connections.

Everything works perfectly

Left
Right
Hazards
High beam

All correspond with switch and lights.

All combo work including corresponding indicators

I Checked

Nothing on
Hazards all function
Brake lights function

Lights off key on

Left low
Right low
Hazards

Lights on first postion

Left high
Right high
Hazards
Running lights

Lights on second poistion

Headlights on high and low
Left
Right
Hazards

Jeff K. I tried to switch around the speedometer and Tac but I had to squeeze the in the first time and although they would eventually come out to swap them I feel like I could crack something. So I decided to leave them

I broke a prong connector on the turn signal switch waiting for that then I can start finishing the dash and securing it.

I want to put wipers so I will wait for those too. I thought I could use any switch as a place holder so I can finalize the dash while I'm waiting to buy the wiper kit.

I tried make a video the indicator one kinda turned out. Like I said the switch is broke so it was not easy keeping the one connected.

Jason

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
660 Posts
awesome jason! one step closer. i'm still waiting on my dash to get back from the upholsterer, but will be wiring soon.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #186
Thank you Chewy. I can t wait to get the body on it I still have a lot to do before that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #187 (Edited)
Day 115 est
225 total hour est
1-10-2020

I placed all the switches and such in the dash. This was something I was worried about from the start.

Through a lot of advise I ended up with a good layout and nothing that looks out of place or strikenly off.

I added a place holder switch (wipers) which will be a manual fan switch instead.

I'm still having issues with the glove box one of the arms popped off. I'm waiting for that to dry and then I should be able to miniplulate the bracket to get it to work better. Then I can put the box on and secure the dash tomorrow.

Jason


Jason
20200110_162251.jpg
20200110_162321.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #188 (Edited)
Day 120 est
230 total hour est
1-25-2020

I secured the dash and center support. (I finally got it back from the guy making a part for me.)

The instructions from FFR for the center dash support said to have the support 5.75 in front the dash wall. I needed more. If I did that it would shove the dash way past the 3/16 measurement at the corners.

Unfortunately Mike Everson under dash support did not work for me. I tried and just did not work. So I will use two of the FFR dash supports and tie up the wires good. Sucks. I bent the crap out of the M. E. Dash suppor. Im sure with a little mod I can make it work. But like it is even if I did get it on there it wasn't going to come out easy. So maybe in the future.

I messed up the screws as usual. But even it out with two extras.

I'm happy with the dash and support.

Still working on the glove box.

Next week koolmat.

Jason
20200125_115906.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #189 (Edited)
Day 135 est
260 total hour est
1-25-2020

I have not posted awhile on this. I have been doing individual threads to get some specific responses for things I was doing. Therefore there will be repeat info but I wanted to added to the build thread. I actually have not tracked what's been done to be honest lots of tinkering more than anything.

1. Odd and end electric. Annoying.
2. Weather striping. Not exactly easy to work with.
3. Some odd and end aluminum panels.
4. Attempted to secure roll bars. The PS bar was faulty. I am waiting on a replacement.
5. Installed driveshaft safety loop. No problems.
6. Figured out how to replace shifter knob. I think I will start a collection.
7. Started seeing what it takes for the koolmat install and carpet.
8. Painted my Breeze seat brackets.
9. Filled in some holes and gaps in the panels.
10. Installed the rear bumper coupler mod.
11. Experimented with my cup holder.
12. Calibrate my gas tank. Followed a video and used the switch for the GPS. I need to order another of those so I can adjust the gauges easier. Maybe order one for each gauge that need it. It will make adjustments easier.
13. Got the dash lights working again. Fuse
14. Started the process of liscence and title. I figured even if I get to the point of an inspection and I'm not ready. I could negotiate a later date. But the process could take a long time so I'm planning on that.

My next 3 big steps are:
1. Redo the flexible fuel lines. I have given this some thought and ordered some goodies to improve this tremendously.

2. Recieve placement PS roll bar. Fit both roll bars.

3. Do the 1st fit of the body. Oh I cant wait for this!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
I’m curious why you couldn’t make Everson’s support work? It’s designed for our cars and tons of folks use them, myself included with no problem. Just asking in case it’s indicating something else may be off?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #191
I’m curious why you couldn’t make Everson’s support work? It’s designed for our cars and tons of folks use them, myself included with no problem. Just asking in case it’s indicating something else may be off?
I'm curious too.

It was probably mostly user error. One hurdle was the center support. I need to adjust that to make the dash support work.

The cut out for the part that went under the steering wheel was too short. I need to trim that. It caused the whole thing to bow once I finally was able to get the support in there. Then it just would not sit right.

I bent the hell out of it getting it back out. Really I just need to get another, trim the area under the steering wheel. Remove the center support and readjust it to the ME dash support.

I just have not gone back to it.

With that said I bought a steering wheel hole finishing piece from ME. It did not work because it was designed for the aluminum dash.

I have not asked ME if the same could be true for the dash support. I have a premade dash from FFR not the the aluminum one you have to cover yourself.

Jason
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #192 (Edited)
Day 145 est
280 total hour est
2-29-20

1. Drilled the roll bar holes
2. Body on for 1st fit

The bars I guess will have to be manipulated along with body placement to get them to fit. I was too tired to figure it out.

The body took two shots. If your trying it for the 1st time the side pipes have to come off.

Any ways looks good I need to adjust the height to get the body to sit right.

None the press bulb weather striping survived. IDK 1st fit. So I will worry about then.

Also the coolant filler is too tall. I have to rework that. No problem I thought Breeze or someone has a nice shinny one.

The body is definitely sitting funky. I will have to monkey with it but it's really far away from the DS frame and I would like it too hug the dash more. Like it's not sitting on the hoop.

I know the PS rear height is way way off. I have a proper spanner wrench coming from Breeze. I need to at least get a base height.

Jason
20200228_132945.jpg
20200229_161141.jpg
20200229_161552.jpg
20200229_161036.jpg
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
300 Posts
Might want to take that small center transmission cover piece loose and rotate it 180 degrees, so the round hole in it is at the forward end rather than the rear end. That way the shift lever won’t run into the transmission cover and the boot will fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #194 (Edited)
Might want to take that small center transmission cover piece loose and rotate it 180 degrees, so the round hole in it is at the forward end rather than the rear end. That way the shift lever won’t run into the transmission cover and the boot will fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok I will. I did not know it was backwards. I do not remember why I did that like that. I do remember making a descion that that was the best fit.

IDK how I got that wrong.

I will change it.

Thank you

Jason
Screenshot_20200302-215229_Drive.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #195 (Edited)
Day 150 est
295 total hour est
3-9-20

1. Widened the PS roll bar body cut out

The holes were just a little off. That spread the hoop enough to make it too wide. Once I widened that np. The PS roll will be easy to take on and off. I have someone making nice aluminum plates to screw into the roll bar bezels when not in use.

2. Fixed the weather striping

I realized that I did not have the striping on properly. The strip had to be pryed apart. I slipped a small pry bar and opened it up and it went on the aluminum much better. I still put a couple rivets to hold it in place, however it probably did not need it.

After that the body went on a lot smoother and fit better.

3. Gave her a first detail. Lol had to get the dust off.

Next is to start bolting things on to the body and set the ride height.

I think the instructions say to do the quick Jack's next. I plan on putting the quick jack mod on the front too. Not only for continuity but for convenience if switching out quick Jack's with over riders and taking the front licences plates holder off. (I like the one that attaches to the front bumpers.

I messed around with the height a little just to see what that entailed. Very easy with the weight off. Jeff and Gregg gave me advise and I will follow that.

I also want to redo the upper radiator hose. I see where I went wrong. I plan on putting the housing straight up and shorting the metal hose so that it's only as tall as the 90 degree rubber connect. Then I will adjust the radiator connect accordingly. Looking at it I might cut the elbow down a little.

Looks awesome!

Jason
20200309_121030.jpg
20200310_104750.jpg
20200310_104758.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #197 (Edited)
Day 151 est
296 total hour est
3-13-2020

Only had a short but if time.

I finished up the coupler mod for the quick jack's in the rear.

Of course things can't go smoothly. I had to open the holes of the quick jack from finish line to 7/16. That was not exactly easy.

Also the gromets I bought from them where way too big. I would have to open the holes in the body. Which is not a huge deal but I decided not to make a big change like that and I like the washer.

But Ace sold 5.5 inch all threads in 7/16 14 and that was a perfect length so I did not have to cut that.

I used nice stainless steel hardware looks good. I do was to get shiny washers for the body. I also need to put the plastic on the inside.

Jason
20200313_131634.jpg
20200313_134840.jpg


Tomorrow I plan on working on the drivetran angle.

1. Find a surface parelel with crankshaft (I'm guessing oil pan flange) place a level

2. Make sure the frame is level.

3. Find the angle between the drivetran and frame. It needs to me 1 to 3 degrees.

4. Shim the transmission if it needs to be.

5. Adjust the 3 link if I need to.

Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Doesn't matter if the frame (or anything else) is level or not. Measure the engine. Measure the diff. The difference is the angle you're looking for. Whatever amount it's out of level will be the same for both. The easiest way to measure the engine is against the harmonic balancer. 90 degrees from the horizontal plane. Easy math.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
Discussion Starter #199
Doesn't matter if the frame (or anything else) is level or not. Measure the engine. Measure the diff. The difference is the angle you're looking for. Whatever amount it's out of level will be the same for both. The easiest way to measure the engine is against the harmonic balancer. 90 degrees from the horizontal plane. Easy math.
Awesome I will do this
 
181 - 200 of 241 Posts
Top