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Day 13 and 14

4 of 36 total hours

3 -29-19

Pedal box

I only got the pedal box assembled and installed. As far as I can tell it's done good. Except I had another issue with bolt recognition. So I do not think the clutch quadrant stop is the right bolt also the one going through the middle of the clutch assembly. It's all tight and secure. Should be good. I will probally try to locate just the clutch stop and put a new one on. One of the bolts for the front bracket may not be right but it was the same size and good fit.

I still need to read more on the balance bar for the master cylinders so I can make sure that is adjusted properly.

I was going to do the accelerator pedal but I will hold off until Mon.

I noticed my body hanging from my ceiling is a little bent/ folded a little I might try to support that a little better not sure if I can do permanent damage to it?

Jason


Jason; what I ended up doing was ‘borrowing’ one of the longer bolts from the Pedal Box Front Mount, since it doesn’t really need such a long bolt, and using that as the Clutch stop bolt. It’s the same length that you have going through the quadrant and pedal arm center hole.

You probably found, like I did, the shorter bolts are too short to go through the middle of the Clutch arm, and too short for the Clutch stop.


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Discussion Starter #62
Jason; what I ended up doing was ‘borrowing’ one of the longer bolts from the Pedal Box Front Mount, since it doesn’t really need such a long bolt, and using that as the Clutch stop bolt. It’s the same length that you have going through the quadrant and pedal arm center hole.

You probably found, like I did, the shorter bolts are too short to go through the middle of the Clutch arm, and too short for the Clutch stop.

Awesome I will look into this

Thank you


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Check the manual for the clearances pointed by the red arrows. Yours look a bit large to me.

Wilwood balance 3 by craig stuard, on Flickr


Craig; how do you post pics with Flickr? I can’t figure that out and have to limp my way through Photobucket.


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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Day 15 and 16

4 of 40 total hours

4-4-19

Pedal box and accelerator

It has been a little bit since I have made any progress. Youth Baseball started up so that took several days I was using to work on the car.

Next week starting Thursday I have 19 days strait dedicated to working on the car. My goal is to install the engine. However if FFR doesn't send my backed ordered parts I don't think that will happen. There are key items I need to finish the rear end and steering front end. I called them they said they had everything except rear calipers they just need to send them in order which they may or may not get to me before then. That's a little frustrating but I know everybody wants their back order too.

I still cant figure out how to close the gap of the brake balance bar. I took it apart as far as I dared and cant move the parts I need to. I can adjust the balance though that's something.


With a little help from Chewy I managed to get the accelerator pedal on. Seems to be good. I am going to put the ffr cable on because that's what is available to me now. It seems a easy trade out if I decide to go a different route.

I have read the instructions and it's not very descriptive on the cable. But I still need to

Clip the bar end off
Thread the supplied end peice on
Mount cable to the pedal box face and
screw the supplied end piece to the pedal top arm.

Any picks of all this would be awesome.

Jason
 

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I’ll tell you what I did to close the gap between the arms on the balance bar. I took the Rear brake master cylinder threaded shaft and backed it out of the threaded mount on the brake pedal. I chose that one because it is not set-screwed to the balance bar. Once the threaded shaft was free of the threaded mount, I pivoted the threaded mount to parallel the balance bar shaft, and this allowed me to spin the threaded mount over the balance bar. The nut threaded up the balance bar until both mounts/washers were almost touching the pedal arm. Then I turned the threaded mount back to the normal position perpendicular to the balance bar, threaded the Master Cylinder threaded shaft back into the threaded mount, and done! Aside from adjusting the balance bar... which I’m going to have to wait on until I get the front brakes and everything tightened up, filled and bled.


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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
Day 17 and 18
4 of 44 total hours
4-6-19

First anyone that hasn't started a build a expansive set of Allen wrenchs, not in a folding case, is necessary. I have used all kinds of the these wrenches and I still very early in the build.

Anyways not much this week. Finished the accelerator and pedal box.

Sorta mocked of the front steering but I lack essential parts.

Also for people that have not started finding all the parts can take time make sure you find all of it and lay it all out. Also you going to end up mocking it all together and taking it apart and putting it back together. This is a bennifet actually it makes sure your double checking everything.

I found all the parts for the steering and did a couple "dry runs". I made some mistakes. I think I have it. I just need parts. For some reason I found making the counter sink or whatever you would call it for set screws fun. I thought they looked pretty awesome!

I do think the upper pillow bearing and or the upper steering shaft is wrong. I'm going to work on the break balance bar this week and wait for parts.

Jason
 

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I’ll tell you what I did to close the gap between the arms on the balance bar. I took the Rear brake master cylinder threaded shaft and backed it out of the threaded mount on the brake pedal. I chose that one because it is not set-screwed to the balance bar. Once the threaded shaft was free of the threaded mount, I pivoted the threaded mount to parallel the balance bar shaft, and this allowed me to spin the threaded mount over the balance bar. The nut threaded up the balance bar until both mounts/washers were almost touching the pedal arm. Then I turned the threaded mount back to the normal position perpendicular to the balance bar, threaded the Master Cylinder threaded shaft back into the threaded mount, and done! Aside from adjusting the balance bar... which I’m going to have to wait on until I get the front brakes and everything tightened up, filled and bled.
Basically correct. But one caution about the bolded sentence. As the instructions say and illustrate in the build manual (copied BTW directly from Wilwood documentation): "In the neutral position, clevises should have between .20” - .25” total clearance between the side of the pedal. The large washers between the pedal and clevis should remain loose."
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Yeah! Factory Five said they would send out my back order this week and they did.

Everything except headers and rear calipers.

I will be able to go back and finish up the rear and front. Then move on for my 2 week vaction/work on the car.

Jason
 

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I took the master cylinders off and fixed the gaps. The washers spin freely.
Maybe it's the picture, but still looks tight. It's more than just the washers being loose. There should be a total of .20 - .25 (1/4 inch) of space between the two sides. Maybe it doesn't seem intuitive for it to be that way. But it's so the balance bar doesn't bind up when pushed to sharp angles. Check page 19 on these instructions. It's illustrated clearly.

http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/PEDALBOX-WILWOOD-NEW.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
I took the master cylinders off and fixed the gaps. The washers spin freely.
Maybe it's the picture, but still looks tight. It's more than just the washers being loose. There should be a total of .20 - .25 (1/4 inch) of space between the two sides. Maybe it doesn't seem intuitive for it to be that way. But it's so the balance bar doesn't bind up when pushed to sharp angles. Check page 19 on these instructions. It's illustrated clearly.

http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/PEDALBOX-WILWOOD-NEW.pdf
Ok I will measure it

Ok I did .09 I will fix it tomorrow thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Not much to report lately. I have not accomplished much. I had little time.

I'm now a couple days into my 2 weeks off to work on the kit.

However I decided to use a part from Breeze for the steering rack that should be here soon. So I cant finish that and the steering.

I did have all the part to finish the 3 link. Except now I went to assemble the koni coilover and the sleeve and screw on retainer was not a good match. I get to a certain point (not far enough for the spring to fit) and it wont go any further. I tried many times and even used a specialty wrench to get it past when I knew it was not cross threaded. The other 3 went together supper easy.

So bottom line is I ordered another sleeve kit and that should be here soon.

I don't want to go any further until the 3 link is done and the steering. Also I want to set the height the best I can.

So this will be a couple days with out any work. But the next step after that is cockpit panels. That will be fun. Really start to see the car coming together.

Jason
 

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I don't want to go any further until the 3 link is done and the steering. Also I want to set the height the best I can.

So this will be a couple days with out any work. But the next step after that is cockpit panels. That will be fun. Really start to see the car coming together.

Jason
You don't need steering or suspension to mark and drill all of the aluminum...SO GET BUSY :grin2:

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I don't want to go any further until the 3 link is done and the steering. Also I want to set the height the best I can.

So this will be a couple days with out any work. But the next step after that is cockpit panels. That will be fun. Really start to see the car coming together.

Jason
You don't need steering or suspension to mark and drill all of the aluminum...SO GET BUSY /forums/images/FFCars_2016/smilies/tango_face_grin.png

Jeff
Ok I will I'm excited about that! I just did not want to keep leaving things undone

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
Day 19 - 24
12 of 56 total hours
4-15-16

Over the last couple days I worked on a variety of tasks such as the break balance bar. I wanted to get a better understanding of the steering and rear end which I did going as far as I had parts for.

I went on ahead and did the passenger foot box.
I did a good job labeling everything when I took it apart it made it a lot easier. I followed the directions except I I mocked it all up drilled all the holes then took it apart and did final asymbly.

It's the first time is serval day I felt like I accomplished something.

I will clean up the panels when the silicone sets.

Jason
 

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Progress!

Tip: Use acetone get those mill stampings as well as your Sharpie notes off of the panels ASAP. The unprotected raw aluminum will naturally oxidize however not under the ink---if you wait several months to clean the marking off the lettering will still show as shiny, unoxidized aluminum.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Progress!

Tip: Use acetone get those mill stampings as well as your Sharpie notes off of the panels ASAP. The unprotected raw aluminum will naturally oxidize however not under the ink---if you wait several months to clean the marking off the lettering will still show as shiny, unoxidized aluminum.

Jeff
Ok I will. I was making sure the silicone was set before hand

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I haven’t read anything about brake and fuel lines, I’d suggest running those before you get any further installing aluminum panels unless you just want to drill and temporarily cleco them.
I would also suggest either at this time or soon, do drill and cleco all your panels so they are ready to go. Don’t install until you absolutely have to in order to reach the next step.
 
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