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Welcome! exciting times. I find the manual to be a good starting point but considerably lacking. I'm more of a visual learner so I read the manual then search google with what i'm looking at, just add ffcars on the end of the search.
 

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My chassis dolly broke. I have it on jacks. I plan on beefing of the dolly and giving it another go. I like the idea of being able to move it.
Hi Jason. Congrats.

Curious, how in the world did that dolly break? FWIW I've had my roadster on that same dolly design, went through 3 moves over 8 years with it, and never had an issue. Make sure you use 3" coarse drywall screws (not fine) and wood glue in those spots. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Days 1-5

3‐15-19

This week was a big learning curve. I basically did not get much done. F panels which was cool. I put the lower control arms on. One upper control arm. The bolt to the back did not go one way no room to get back there. Shocks are still waiting to be assembled.

I worked a lot of hours with little done. Basically having to make a run or two to the store for more tools. Which I thought I had plenty. I see why these builds take a long time. Once I get use to how things work on this thing and how the boxes are organized I'm sure things will go quicker and easier. In theory.

The ball joint was the biggest issue. Still working on this. I have to go get a a better heat source to loosen this up enough to get the ball joint out again. I was thinking a small propane torch?

Any newbies reading this I suggest getting the ball joint socket and using a impact wrench. The vise will work if the ball is threading somewhat easily. If not you will need a strong table and a lot of weight and torque. Otherwise if it's hard i suggest using the socket even if you have to buy a compressor and wrench. And don't start until you have everything or the threader locker will start doing its job.

One last thing, I was wondering if others thought the same. I wish FFR was more clear on what bolt asymbly bags part number is used for what part.

I opened box 1 which had upper control, ball joints shocks and steering assembly. Plus all the hardware. It was up to me by matching bolts with pics and video to make sure I was using the right stuff. The bags are marked but that did not match the parts list. I figured it out but it would make it so much easier to grab the bag for control arms only and bolt it on not have to sort through a bunch of stuff.

Jason
 

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The ball joint was the biggest issue. Still working on this. I have to go get a a better heat source to loosen this up enough to get the ball joint out again. I was thinking a small propane torch?

Any newbies reading this I suggest getting the ball joint socket and using a impact wrench. The vise will work if the ball is threading somewhat easily. If not you will need a strong table and a lot of weight and torque. Otherwise if it's hard i suggest using the socket even if you have to buy a compressor and wrench. And don't start until you have everything or the threader locker will start doing its job.

One last thing, I was wondering if others thought the same. I wish FFR was more clear on what bolt assembly bags part number is used for what part.

I opened box 1 which had upper control, ball joints shocks and steering assembly. Plus all the hardware. It was up to me by matching bolts with pics and video to make sure I was using the right stuff. The bags are marked but that did not match the parts list. I figured it out but it would make it so much easier to grab the bag for control arms only and bolt it on not have to sort through a bunch of stuff.

Jason
Going to offer a couple other opinions, again for the new builders out there. I really hate seeing these multiple build threads with guys really beating up these ball joints and upper control arms. Often even while putting them in upside down. Ugh. Really encourage that when things get so hard you can't hold them in a vise, you're breaking work benches, tools, etc. something is wrong. For ball joints and any other fasteners or assembly along the way. Stop and sort it out. You're headed down a road that doesn't have an easy return. Don't forget that even if you get them on, they don't last forever and you may have to service that thing some day. And threads often get tighter over time with use, road grime, rust, whatever. Many have solved those Mevotech ball joints by cleaning up the threads. That's fine and hope it works. Others like me have gone to other brand ball joints, but I know that's not for everyone. It shouldn't be necessary and Factory Five should be supplying parts that work without Herculean efforts.

For the parts thing, you're right. It can be a bit of a search to find the right parts. They are kind of logically grouped, but not always. I'd really encourage you, and other builders, to use the box part listings that Factory Five provided with your kit delivery. Each part has a technical description (dimensions, etc.) and also usually a word description of what it's for. And they're usually grouped together. Like all front suspension bolts in one place, etc. This, along with the pictures and descriptions in the manual, should sort things out for you. This is one of the reasons I always recommend to not remove the parts from the boxes they come in. I know for some space is an issue. But leaving them organized as received and after inventory makes finding them when needed way easier.

None of the above is meant to be negative or judgmental. Hope it doesn't come out that way. Just trying to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thank you Edward B.

I normally would not be forcing things together like this. I agree if it's that hard most likely your doing something wrong. However I knew this was a known issue.

I agree on the leaving everything in the box. I did that. I even left them in the paper wrap and in the spot they were in the box. I even only took out the parts I needed immediately.

I agree with all you said I just need get past this ball joint and I think I will start cruising along a little easier.

Jaso
 

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Discussion Starter #30
My chassis dolly broke. I have it on jacks. I plan on beefing of the dolly and giving it another go. I like the idea of being able to move it.
Hi Jason. Congrats.

Curious, how in the world did that dolly break? FWIW I've had my roadster on that same dolly design, went through 3 moves over 8 years with it, and never had an issue. Make sure you use 3" coarse drywall screws (not fine) and wood glue in those spots. HTH
IDK. Instead of putting the chassis and body on Stewart's dolly getting into the garage then moving it to my dolly. I suggested putting on my dolly in the street and push it in


The bumps and dips is what probally broke it. I think I like the Jack's. My garage is big enough to have the build and mustang with plenty of room to work all the way around.
 

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I have used this heat gun https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to loosen red loctite plenty of times. Lots of heat, and I found it more easy to aim than the propane torch I had.

When you do get the ball joints apart, run a wire brush through the threads of both the plate and the joint. After I did that, the joints went in almost by hand.


John

P.S. The reason it took me so long to build my car is that I did it three times! AND...I can count on one hand the number of parts that went together properly/exactly right the first time. As a rock climbing buddy told me, "Don't fret...you're doing it right...just solve the problem that's in front of you."
 

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Days 1-5

3‐15-19

This week was a big learning curve. I basically did not get much done. F panels which was cool. I put the lower control arms on. One upper control arm. The bolt to the back did not go one way no room to get back there. Shocks are still waiting to be assembled.

I worked a lot of hours with little done. Basically having to make a run or two to the store for more tools. Which I thought I had plenty. I see why these builds take a long time. Once I get use to how things work on this thing and how the boxes are organized I'm sure things will go quicker and easier. In theory.

The ball joint was the biggest issue. Still working on this. I have to go get a a better heat source to loosen this up enough to get the ball joint out again. I was thinking a small propane torch?

Any newbies reading this I suggest getting the ball joint socket and using a impact wrench. The vise will work if the ball is threading somewhat easily. If not you will need a strong table and a lot of weight and torque. Otherwise if it's hard i suggest using the socket even if you have to buy a compressor and wrench. And don't start until you have everything or the threader locker will start doing its job.

One last thing, I was wondering if others thought the same. I wish FFR was more clear on what bolt asymbly bags part number is used for what part.

I opened box 1 which had upper control, ball joints shocks and steering assembly. Plus all the hardware. It was up to me by matching bolts with pics and video to make sure I was using the right stuff. The bags are marked but that did not match the parts list. I figured it out but it would make it so much easier to grab the bag for control arms only and bolt it on not have to sort through a bunch of stuff.

Jason
Been there, done that. Just very recently. I ended up using a propane torch to heat up the thread lock. I used an air impact gun w/ a ball joint socket (1-59/64"...for chrysler small ball joints) to remove it. I had a 2ft breaker bar w/ an additional 3 ft steel pipe cheater bar ready in case the impact gun couldn't remove it. As edwardb recommended, using a wire wheel on a drill to remove the coating on the threads of the BJ made it thread in smoothly. make sure you thread lock it and torque it down.
Pay attention to your spindles. They are labeled driver and passenger side, but you end up putting them on the opposite sides of the car (the passenger side goes on the driver's side and vice versa). And also pay attention to the control arms that attach the spindles to the outer tie rods. There is a subtle difference with the tie rod hole being larger on one side vs the other. The larger hole faces the ground and the smaller hole faces up.
I'm not too much farther on my build than you. There hasn't been a part that I haven't had to remove/redo.
make sure you check the settings on your shocks before installing them. It's recommended that they are set to the softest setting, which is supposed to be the factory default, but you might as well check them before you have to remove and reinstall them like I did. There's a link on my build page on how to reset the shocks.
Lastly, I decided to slow down my build despite my enthusiasm to dive right in and take some time reading others' build pages. Lots of mistakes that have been made before me, and I'm trying not to repeat history. Also it's nice to get some ideas on modifications that are easier to do now rather than later.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Egchewy


Thank you. Looks like we will be building this thing together.

I'm not rushing I assure you. I try to read post I guess I missed it. I use videos too. I just have time to work on it. My kids are older and my wife is supporting via letting me be in the garage when I want.

Anyways thanks for the advise I will use all of it.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Day 6

3-16-19

After some difficulty initially, I got the ball joint in with no effort with the right tools.

I have the upper and lower control arm on the chassis and the rest will have to wait until Monday. I did remember the spacer in the front.

Yippy!

Jason
 

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Woo-hoo! :grin2: Thank goodness, right?

Another small hint. Looks like you have your F-panels permanently attached, and doesn't look like you've done anything to the aluminum. Don't know what your plans are there. But one thing you may want to do though, if you're planning to leave them a natural color, is to remove that marking ink. Wipe the aluminum down with lacquer thinner or acetone. The aluminum will naturally oxidize over time and the longer you leave those ink marks, it will show when you remove them because it doesn't oxidize there. Small thing I know, but something you might want to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Woo-hoo! /forums/images/FFCars_2016/smilies/tango_face_grin.png Thank goodness, right?

Another small hint. Looks like you have your F-panels permanently attached, and doesn't look like you've done anything to the aluminum. Don't know what your plans are there. But one thing you may want to do though, if you're planning to leave them a natural color, is to remove that marking ink. Wipe the aluminum down with lacquer thinner or acetone. The aluminum will naturally oxidize over time and the longer you leave those ink marks, it will show when you remove them because it doesn't oxidize there. Small think I know, but something you might want to think about.
I was going to paint the engine bay panels. I thought if I Jack them up and or they start chipping or peeling for one reason or the other that would not be good either. So I went with the safe bet and left then natural which I like alright.

I did remove the marking on one. I did not realize it came off until the second. I had already put the first on. I just need to clean it. Thank you for reminding me.

Jason.
 

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A friend with a MK3 he's had on the road for about 4 yrs left his engine bay panels unfinished and they look fine, wish I had left mine bare also.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #39
A friend with a MK3 he's had on the road for about 4 yrs left his engine bay panels unfinished and they look fine, wish I had left mine bare also.
JR

Awesome. A lot of people like that raw look. I know it better than bad paint by me. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Day 7

3-18-19

Ok not a lot done but for a work day on a Monday not bad.

I got the shocks asymblem and installed.

I made sure to use the right size spacers in the right spots.

I also made sure to zip tie.

The snap rings were secure and not aligned with the hat opening.

There was no way I saw to tighten the bolt between the rubber stopper and end of the shock? I assume that all was taken care of when I tighten the whole thing up.

I don't think it matter what way the spring is on? The Factory Five logo is upside down on one?

Jason
 

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