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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Engine Install -

As with most everything else to do with the GTM build, I am not expecting the engine install to be a straight forward affair. With the Halo Bar and rear cross bars in the frame, it makes for a very tight "fit".

I am sure that I will need your tips on installing the engine.

What were you able to leave on the engine, and still be able to get it into the car?

For example, I really don't want to have to try to install that A/C Compressor or Alternator after the engine has been put it in, since there is so little room to either side. But how about the water pump and top idler bracket? Also, I would imagine that the headers have to come off...

I'm thinking that in order to get it into such a small space, it has to be tilted front down until it clears the halo bar, and then move forward, and level it out as you go...

One thing that I've noticed is that when I use the leveler on my engine hoist, the chains tend to want to ride accross the intake manifold. I don't want to put any stress against the bolts that hold it in place, than I have to. Your suggestions for this would be helpful as well.

I know that the trans is going to be it's own little slice of heaven to install, but I'm mentally prepared for that one...

Any tips would be appreciated.
 

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Stig,

I was able to leave the A/C compressor and alternator in place and the intake manifold on. I started the install with a leveller, but in the end, that interfered with the halo bar. It really doesn't have to be tilted much to go in. Just put protection on all the frame tubing so that you don't scratch it all up.

Check the pictures in my gallery, you will see how the leveller makes it harder to install.
 

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I used a leveller, but the front chain hit the halo bar. I had to sit the engine down on the floor inside the car and move the front chain to the other side of the halo bar, before getting it into final position.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I used a leveller, but the front chain hit the halo bar. I had to sit the engine down on the floor inside the car and move the front chain to the other side of the halo bar, before getting it into final position.
By floor, do you litterally mean "the floor", or did you have to let it sit on something like 2x4's accross the frame?

Once you had the mounts in the bolt holes, and the weight of the engine on the mounts, how did you support the rear of the engine, until you got the transmission in? Floor jack?

I'm wondering whether or not I may need to make some sort of brace to hold the rear of the engine.

Also, based on the great pictures of Mike Downs build, it looks as though the clutch may need to come back off. I guess that makes sense. It increases the overall length by about 3 or 4 inches.

Can anyone else offer any additional thoughts or tips? I'm planning to have the engine, transmission, ss braided coolant lines, and cable shifter in this weekend.

By the way, I finally got the custom radiator from Griffin last week. That was a nice piece of work!

Pictures to follow!
 

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You'll also want to pull the spark plugs if they're in. They're kind of in an exposed area that can get beat up against the frame. As for supporting the rear of the engine once the engine is in, a 2x4 cut to length works well propped under the rear of the engine.

My only other suggestion would be to not plan on getting all of your list done in a weekend. :001_tongue: The engine and trans are certainly do-able and maybe the cable shift if all is going well, but I think you'll be surprised at how much fun the coolant hoses are going to be. :) Hope your forearms are in good shape...you'll be needing them.
 

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I did not try my install with the AC compressor or the alt on. WIsh that I would have after reading that it could be done. Dont forget the little round silver spacers from FFR if you have the motor mounts with the little tits on the bottom.

I installed my headers before I installed the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You'll also want to pull the spark plugs if they're in. They're kind of in an exposed area that can get beat up against the frame. As for supporting the rear of the engine once the engine is in, a 2x4 cut to length works well propped under the rear of the engine.

My only other suggestion would be to not plan on getting all of your list done in a weekend. :001_tongue: The engine and trans are certainly do-able and maybe the cable shift if all is going well, but I think you'll be surprised at how much fun the coolant hoses are going to be. :) Hope your forearms are in good shape...you'll be needing them.
Pulling the plugs makes a lot of sense. Thanks.

And I know you're right about the weekend worklist. Realistically, I'd be happy with getting the engine and trans in. The cable shifter and coolant lines are what figure that I need to get done to feel like I'm somewhat caught up... :shifty:
 

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You guys make it sound so complicated. I just picked it up off the engine jack and carried it over and set it on the motor mounts...

compressor, alt, headers came after. manifold stayed on
 

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Your A BAD Man

You guys make it sound so complicated. I just picked it up off the engine jack and carried it over and set it on the motor mounts...
compressor, alt, headers came after. manifold stayed on
ROFLMAO :lol:

Hey Spy way to go, you made me just spray my coffee all over the place thanks a lot man

BTW I went to your web site and didn’t find any pictures or video of your engine install method, you know what they say about :glare:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You guys make it sound so complicated. I just picked it up off the engine jack and carried it over and set it on the motor mounts...

compressor, alt, headers came after. manifold stayed on
I have been accused of Over Thinking things before... :glare:
 

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ROFLMAO :lol:

Hey Spy way to go, you made me just spray my coffee all over the place thanks a lot man

BTW I went to your web site and didn’t find any pictures or video of your engine install method, you know what they say about :glare:
yeah yeah, I was working alone and didn't have someone to take a pic...but there is a pic on there of me installing the trans in that same manner, lol.
 

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Stig,

I got the engine in last night. I installed it with the stock exhaust, AC compressor and everything on the top of the motor with out any problems. When you start to drop the engine, think: aim the AC compressor towards the front of the car and it will clear the cage...it was fairly far into the space before I turned the engine to allign with the mounts.

Once in, I used 7 pieces of 2X6 stacked to take the weight of the back of the engine when I removed the hoist. That is with my wheels/tires on and the car sitting on rollers like you have.

Hope to have the gearbox in and 1/2 shafts by the end of the week.

Cheers

NT
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Stig,

I got the engine in last night. I installed it with the stock exhaust, AC compressor and everything on the top of the motor with out any problems. When you start to drop the engine, think: aim the AC compressor towards the front of the car and it will clear the cage...it was fairly far into the space before I turned the engine to allign with the mounts.

Once in, I used 7 pieces of 2X6 stacked to take the weight of the back of the engine when I removed the hoist. That is with my wheels/tires on and the car sitting on rollers like you have.

Hope to have the gearbox in and 1/2 shafts by the end of the week.

Cheers

NT
Thanks David. I'll turn it as you say, and see how it goes in. And again, congrats on your progress. You are smokin'!

Also, I'll get the radiator shipped out asap.

Take care.
 

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Stig,

I installed a couple of the long studs for the bellhousing and then cut a 2x4 to go across the frame. The long studs then rested on the 2x4. This way, you can still roll the car around.
 

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I installed mine with compressor on, alternator and headers off. I was surprised just how much room there was, could easily have left the alt on. After dropping an S2000 engine into a Lotus 7 clone, this was a piece of cake.
I don't know what a 'leveler' is on an engine hoist, I just used a ratcheting tie-down strap from the back of the motor to the hoist chain as my adjustable leveler.
Once the engine was in and bolted down, it wants to tilt back a lot, and I didn't have a couple pieces for my clutch so I just used the same ratcheting tie down from the top rear of the engine to the halo bar to hold it level until I get to the rest of the clutch and gearbox install.
Oh, my intake was and is still off, since it was being painted, which makes the method I used easier.


Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wish I was still there to help!

Good luck and post some pictures!
No Worries! I know that if you were close by, you'd be here if you could. We should be able to take it out before long.

I installed mine with compressor on, alternator and headers off. I was surprised just how much room there was, could easily have left the alt on.

I just used a ratcheting tie-down strap from the back of the motor to the hoist chain as my adjustable leveler.

Once the engine was in and bolted down, it wants to tilt back a lot, and I didn't have a couple pieces for my clutch so I just used the same ratcheting tie down from the top rear of the engine to the halo bar to hold it level until I get to the rest of the clutch and gearbox install.

Oh, my intake was and is still off, since it was being painted, which makes the method I used easier.

Regards,
I think that I'll leave the Alternator on and see how it goes. I can always pull it, if it looks to close. Using the tie down straps is a good idea also.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Congrats on the progress Mike! Whatever you do, dont put your finger between the engine and the roll bar when lowering it in... :D

David
Hi David,

You know, it's funny that you mention that...

Last Saturday, I had the engine up on the lift, with the leveler cranked all the way forward in order to get the front of the motor tilted down enough to clear the halo bar. The engine wanted to turn to the side, so Pam, my wife, decided to hold it while I lowered it.

Those that have met my wife knows that she is about 4'11" in stature and 7' tall in gumption! So she was holding the Halo Bar to steady herself while she held the engine to steady it.

When I turned the release to lower the engine, it suddenly dropped about 2 or 3 inches, and then slowed. The upper idler bracket (over the waterpump) missed her hand by 1/2". I lifted the motor back up, and set it down on the roller stand, and decided that day wasn't the day to put it in.

So now I really don't mind stripping it down (except for the A/C Compressor), and putting it in the car, and then building it back up once it's in.

Scared the hell out of me. I am ok with it, if I do something dumb and hurt myself. But I can't imagine letting her get hurt like that, just to steady an engine.

So I'll pull the plugs, coils, intake (and I guess the clutch), and drop it in this evening. I'll get everything back on it tonight, and then start with the clutch and transmission tomorrow.

I actually did buy the Batwing Oil Pan and Pick up tube, but after conversation in one of the previous threads, I think I'm Ok with the new Corvette pan that came with my LS2 crate. We'll see.
 
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