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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did some searching and could not get a real good answer to this - see picture below - -



Sorry for the fuzziness, the camera does not do macro too well.

Here is another picture, maybe better:



See the gap on the right? That does not look right.

In the Coupe manual, page 112 (yeah, I am actually using the manual), it says something about start with 3 shims and no shims - the text is poorly written, and I do not understand it.

But the pictures show what I got after following the steps.

Do I have the correct shims? Mine look like thin black washers. Do I just stuff washers in there to fill the gap?

Pictures of your solution would be great.

Thanks,
wayne
 

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Heres what I did. I centered the forward staright arm in the mount. In the rear mount, I left the spacers out until the alignment was done. The spacers will change as the length of th earm is adjusted. I then made the correct size spacers once it was all set. Yes you are using the correct black washers. Its a paint dealing with a stack of washers liek that.
Mike
 

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Sorry Mike I have to disagree with you, which does not happen very often.

We put the rear arms as far back as they can go in the roadster and not as far in the coupe with just a couple of shims behind the Heim and stacked in front with the same amount of threads showing on both Heims in the rear mounts which is about 5/8 inch of threads inside the jam nut.

What we found was the rear mounts are good on the frame the front right is welded in the wrong spot and has been since day one. it is too far inboard.

If you want a more detailed explanation search my name and you will find more. HTH, Richard.
 

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Okay, I went back and read some of Richards posts regarding alignment. Here is one post and I think sums it up well:

We have done a ton of work with IRS cars over the years. This is what I found. The front mounts are not square with the world, the rears are.

We put one or two shims in the rear of the rear mounts and fill the front with the Rod ends extended about 5/8 inch of thread showing inside the jam nut. We then lock it down and NEVER touch them again. We send the car to the alignment shop and the set the front without shims of any kind and set the upper so the front does toe and the upper camber.

When the car comes back to the shop we fill the front with shims to snug it all up and call it done. This whole set up gets close to the magic 59.5 track width these cars need.

So now you ask why? Well most people who get rub get it on the front of the 315 tire inboard on the aluminum by the driver's kidney (or passenger). So moving the rear back and out solves that problem. No spacers on the hubs no issues.

I have written these steps many many times and as far as I know not one person has had any problems. HTH, Richard.


So, I've made a drawing that shows what I think Richard is talking about and I want Richard to check it out to make sure I've got it right. Looks like it will make the alignment a bit easier.



I'll edit this as needed.

George
 

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Yes, that looks about right. Get the rear locked down and set the camber and toe in by eye. take it to the alignment shop and have them set Camber and Toe for final and then shim the front arms where they set them.

We do this once and never touch the rear again. HTH, Richard.

Mike no sweat man, we are both trying to pass on what we have learned. Richard.
 

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Richard,
I am kind of confused which happens all the time. Does the roadster have a different IRS layout than the coupe? On my type 65 gen 2 coupe the lower a-arm front member is perpendicular to the center line of the car and the rear member is at an angle and is the one that changes rod end location as the rod ends are adjusted. I set the front rod end like you said and it only needed a small adjustment to get the tread width correct and then I adjusted the rear rod end to correct the toe in and then added washers to the rear rod end to fill the space on both sides. FFR said to set the coupe to 59.25 is 59.5 also for the coupe?

Thanks for the info,

Bill Lomenick
 

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Just curious, does using the multiple individual spacers (washers) ever create an issue down the road? (No pun intended!) Would it be better, after the alignment is completed, to replace the washers with solid spacer, or would this even be necessary?
Thanks

Rick
 

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KH6WZ: The mounting tabs you show are not parallel. What I did when I built my coupe was to take a large wrench and bend the tab a bit .Looks like your rear tab needs a little tweak. Bend it a bit and put the bolt in and look at the head, you want the underside of the head to be parallel with the tab so it does not bend and push the other tab forwad or backward. I had to do this with mine and it required a slim extra washer on that side. When mounting mine I did the same as Michael Everson described above. I used the IRS adjusters on my build which makes moving the wheel assembly forwad or back a bit so wheel base matches on each side and maintain alignment. They also allow you to make small changes to center the wheel in the opening. You can use the front or back as a starting point but using the adjusters IMHO makes this alignment process easier. Michael and Richard are both correct they just have different starting reference points.
Just make sure all of your mounting tabs are parallel and perpendicular with their respective mounts.
HTH
CB
 

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Just curious, does using the multiple individual spacers (washers) ever create an issue down the road? (No pun intended!) Would it be better, after the alignment is completed, to replace the washers with solid spacer, or would this even be necessary?
Thanks

Rick
It's a lot easier to deal with one machined spacer than a stack of the blued washers...

I ended up using some of each, and will probably end up doing some more machining before I'm through...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
GWL George -
Richard O -

Thanks a ton for doing all this work. Earlier today I used a Google search and added Richard's name in there, and found a lot more posts on this.

I will take a close look at those mounting tabs and make more measurements....

Maybe Our Moderator can make this a "Sticky," or maybe later this week - er - later next week (day job stuff getting in the way) will make it into a PDF or something - or add it to the IRS tutorial or - something.

Thanks again in advance to all for the help as I move thru this build process. . . . pictures to come when I get this completed.....

wayne
 
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