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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is an old topic, since I read as many posts as I can find on both forums.

(I do like Cobra99's suggestion - real nice!)

But - my differential looks different from others, and so I decided to post a fresh look at this.

My standard width IRS differential did not fit into the cage as documented. To cut a long story short - remove the rear cover.

Here are some pictures - more pictures and details are posted on my WordPress blog site.

Skip all the complicated directions, and just take off the cover. Then you and your helper can use the jack to lift it into place:











By the way – anyone else missing two nuts and bolts for the pumpkin mount? My parts list is correct, and yet I am still missing two fasteners for the standard width IRS differential.
 

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DRIVING!!!
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Mine looks just like yours... Mines from a 98 Merc Mark VIII... Keep going!!! Your doing fine!!!


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Master of my Build
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Are you using rubber bushings in the front? Many suggest the solid aluminum bushings. With the rear solid mounted and the front flexible, you could break your Diff Cover. Although your rear cover looks a little more beffy than most.

Nice solution getting it in there. I just got mine in again a few weeks back. Ended up using a jack and the engine hoist with a strap. Not good to have kids around as you posted in your blog. :winkiss: Its just a double half gainer with a twist followed by a back flip and it fits right in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
NavyDude - Roger that - thanks!

Chris - thanks for the suggestion - I will look into those.

-wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #5
UPDATE - Fasteners found

Regarding the nuts and bolts for the IRS pumpkin - I found them this morning. Two nylon lock nuts and two bolts (1/2-13 x 3.25-inch) are in the 12438 bag, in Box 11C, IRS STD Width Rear Suspension.

The other two are included in the "IRS Completion Package" and are part numbers 25995 for the flanged locknuts and 14952 two bolts. I am not sure why these are metric. . . .

This is what they look like, the nuts and bolts from Box 11C are at the 5 o'clock position.


 

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I put the diff in mine pretty easily, was surprised at how it went in. It was one with the iron case. I have since picked up an aluminum case. Is there a difference in how the 2 go in? I made a set of aluminum front mounts for the iron case, are the holes in the aluminum case the same size? I'm hoping to pull the diff out for the case swap some time in the next couple of weeks.

(On a side note, do many of you guys find yourselves installing parts only to upgrade them later in the build? I'm doing it way too often!)
 

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FYI for you guys : If you are looking for solid mounts for the front of your IRS or Poly bushings for the outer hubs which eliminate the need to use quad skocks. VPM (Vintage performace motorsports) listed under the advitersiers tab above has them. The also offer front and rear sway bars and a number of other upgrades that will improve the handling of your car. I'll share this for what it's worth in case you don't know. If you have question go to google or use the link below then enter site:ffcars.com then what you wish info about. Like site:ffcars.com sway bars for coupe or SAI mod or bumpsteer, caster/ camber,poer steering,spring rates, wheels etc,etc. I spent hours looking at verious posts and found this late in my build and it is a great source of specific info.
Go fast have fun:
HTH
CB
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
ConeBasher -
Thanks for the up-grade hints, and the search thing - it really saves time plowing thru 100's of posts. I hope people will help the search engines by adding key words in their posts.

Rallygorgo -
I do not know how the aluminum units compare to the iron ones. Hopefully the seasoned guys may know, and share that info.

My unit is really beefy and in un-finished aluminum. One thing bad about aluminum, though - the threads may bind up and need to be chased / re-threaded when putting the cover back on. Otherwise, there is a risk of snapping a cover bolt inside the case, and the remnant will have to be extracted out. :mad: Ask me how I know this......

-wayne
 

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I am not sure if it was mentioned but one side of the mount on the new rear cover needs to be machined to fit into the frame.

Bill Lomenick
 

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Mustang Convert
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Aluminum cases are slightly bigger than iron cases.

Iron cases slide right in, aluminum cases with a stock cover are a tight fit but not too bad, aluminum cases with a aftermarket cover with a girdle built in (Ford Racing or others) are a problem where taking the cover off makes it easy.

The grinding of the cover at a strategic location as just mentioned is something I have not heard of before but apparently works.

Kevin
 

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hmmm... a bit concerned here.. my diff center doesnt have quiet the same rear casting. Levy may have swapped it for one that will fit first pass. Are what look like holes about 1/3rd of the way down either side of the center line on the cover and the two which are rearward facing functional in the Coupe.. as my version doesn't have either of them..?
 

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hmmm... a bit concerned here.. my diff center doesnt have quiet the same rear casting. Levy may have swapped it for one that will fit first pass. Are what look like holes about 1/3rd of the way down either side of the center line on the cover and the two which are rearward facing functional in the Coupe.. as my version doesn't have either of them..?
Your diff is fine. The diff pictured in post#1 has more mount holes than what are used on the IRS.
 

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thanks Mike...

Have a garage full of bits and tools.. no car, no assembly manual.. as yet.. :)

Cheers

Chris
 

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Mustang Convert
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Yours is exactly the same as my aluminum case/cover. Yours has an OEM / production cover. Mine came from a 1997 Lincoln MKVIII.

The one shown in the first post of this this thread has an aftermarket cover(looks like a Ford Racing one to me) that is significantly bigger/beefier with the jack screws to support the bearing caps inside the differential.

You are good, no issue with the OEM / production cover - it all works fine.

Kevin

hmmm... a bit concerned here.. my diff center doesnt have quiet the same rear casting. Levy may have swapped it for one that will fit first pass. Are what look like holes about 1/3rd of the way down either side of the center line on the cover and the two which are rearward facing functional in the Coupe.. as my version doesn't have either of them..?
 

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thanks Kevin.. :)
 

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Hi Geoff.. :)

Many thanks.. have bought one online last week.. my kit arrives in port at the end of this week.. the wait is nearly over.. :)

Cheers

Chris
 

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I have the exacts same setup as Wayne, and after spending a couple of hours with three guys trying to fit the pumpkin into the frame I followed Wayne's advice and removed the cover. 2 minutes later it was in and ready to go!
 

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all noted.. thanks guys, some of my components arrived this week... the bulk of it will be docking on Friday.

Can anyone confirm the model Mustang or the Ford Racing part number of the pumpkin cover you guys have been wrestling with..?

Thanks

Chris
 
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