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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I sit here, waiting for parts to arrive, I started to question my sanity. If I send my hubs out to Stu to have them re-drilled for the 4.5" pattern, how will the stock rotors fit??:confused1: The holes in the rotors are based on the 4.25" pattern. Would I need to use Mustang rotors? If I did, these increase in size to 11.65"(??) which would be larger than the Mustang front rotors that I got with the two piston calipers. Anyone out there who can help me keep from loosing whats left of my mind?

On a different topic, is there some way to have the threads list from the #1 post, and scroll down through the thread from there? I finally found a way to get all of the posts list, but they are from the last down to the first, which is just annoying.
Thanks, Rick
 

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Yes, you would have to change to the Mustang rotors. I am using the 11.65 rotors in the back and 11.00" rotors in the front. I haven't assembled anything yet so I can't give you any more insight or post pictures.

On a different topic, is there some way to have the threads list from the #1 post, and scroll down through the thread from there? I finally found a way to get all of the posts list, but they are from the last down to the first, which is just annoying.
Click on User CP

Click on Edit Options

Scroll down to Thread Display Options and you'll see the option for how you want to read posts. Make the changes offered that you want

Click Save
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bill,
Thanks for the blazing fast response:001_tt1: You must have been typing the response before I posted the question! Seriously though, I always assumed (and yes I know) that the front rotors would be larger than the rears from most other applications that I've seen in the past. Do you see any balance issues with this?
 

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Should not be any problems
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Will I need to find new brackets to re-position the calipers? If so, do you know which vendor would have these?
And again, thanks for all the help.
 

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I believe you need brackets but don't know who provides them. Hopefully someone will chime in with the missing information.
 

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As I sit here, waiting for parts to arrive, I started to question my sanity. If I send my hubs out to Stu to have them re-drilled for the 4.5" pattern, how will the stock rotors fit?
The stock rotors will not fit....... unless you also redrill the rotors. The manual shows you how to change the hole spacing on the rotors to fit with the new hub pattern.
 

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another option is to buy a cobra hub bearing and press it in your knuckle, it will have the correct spacing. mike forte, disc brakes are us and north racecars sell the caliper brackets for the calipers. also breeze automotive
 

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iBuild
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Breeze used to carries the rotor redrilled for the 4.5inch circle as well.

Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing

Just have to make sure you have the same year calipers for the t-bird, the earlier ones used a thicker rotor.

Scott

The stock rotors will not fit....... unless you also redrill the rotors. The manual shows you how to change the hole spacing on the rotors to fit with the new hub pattern.
 

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Hi EZ$ If I were doing it over again I would use these ford rear disks with the set up pictured with the brackets below. Breeze, Forte's or brakes R us could set you up. I used Stu to drill my hubs. He did a wonderful job...





Using this set up you standard rear calipers and rotors from a mustang. The bracket makes them work If you are using the Thunderbird Calipers you have to go with the smaller rotor from the Thunderbird. Some have slotted out to rotors to make them work. Check breeze they offer the drilled rotors.

Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the replys. Since I already have the calipers and T-Bird hubs, I'm going to have the hubs re-drilled and save some $. The rotors that came on the T-Bird rear were from an 89-92 car, and are right at 1" thick. If I have to switch to a Mustang rotor, and use a new bracket for the T-Bird caliper, am I going to have problems finding a rotor that will work? The front rotors I have are from an 04 Mustang, and they are 11" diameter and 1" thick. My intent was to switch to drilled and slotted rotors to improve cooling, etc., so I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. I'll check with Breeze, etc., regarding the brackets, but when I checked previously, they only referenced the later year T-Birds and not the year that I have.
 

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I had Stu re-drill my hubs also and I used the stock rotors. I believe my rear knuckles were off of a 89 Turbo Coupe. The rotors on mine are hub-centric so I elongated the holes slightly with a die grinder to elongate them. The Pin drive adapters actually hold the rotors to the hubs on mine and they work well, i.e. no balance or noise problems etc. I believe that the instruction to adapt the rotor was in the MK III manual but I don't remember for sure.
 

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Ez$ Sounds like the way to go. That is what I did. Have Stu drill the spindles and elongate the holes on the your existing rotors.. I am using 18" wheels and they look kind of puny on there. The calipers and the rotors off the T-birds are more beefy but smaller in diameter. It is only a visual thing is the only reason I would have gone to Mustang's.... JJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Does anyone know if someone makes a bracket to adapt the T-Bird caliper to a Mustang rotor, but for the 1" thick rotors? Otherwise I wasted alot of money getting the T-Bird brakes when I could have just gotten the spindles and the differential, and then outfitted with the Mustang hub and brakes. What's frustrating is that the FAQ section on IRS appears to be quite outdated with the changes that have occured in the IRS kit that FFR provides. Also, I went through Cypress for the parts, and Mike is telling me that there are some problems with the later year T-Bird rears, as far as seal issues with the differential. Since these later years apparantly had the thinner rotors, my question is, why haven't brackets been made for the other earlier years that FFR says can also be used?
Again, thanks for all the help. Just a little frustration at this end.

Rick
 

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The stock rotors will not fit....... unless you also redrill the rotors. The manual shows you how to change the hole spacing on the rotors to fit with the new hub pattern.
As per Bob, Tim, and JJ, what is wrong with this approach? I did not do the IRS conversion, but I poured over the manual multiple times in this area. The rotors are hub-centric (as already mentioned). So, taking the stock T-Bird rotors, elongating the holes, and mounting keeps all the geometry with brackets, rotor width, etc the same. This seems to be the most straight-forward, economical approach. Am I missing something? (Not trying to be antagonistic, just trying to find out what the biggest concern is.)
 

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IRS brake relocation brackets

EZ$,

Below is some reading for you. I believe it will have all the info you require. Go to the very first post and it will have a link to the original guy (Doug Fraleigh) who out lines this mod.
I have done this on my build and it does take a little effort but I think it's a viable solution for larger rear brakes since you should have got most of the parts with the IRS. Don't get overwhelmed as it really isn't that big of a mod. Just time.
I built my own re-location brackets (using the instructions) and just bought the rotor centreing rings from Fast Ed due to the fact that the T-bird and Mustang have different hub diameters. I also had Stu re-drill my hubs and he does an awesome job.
Anyway here's the link; Cobra rear brake conversion caliper relocation brackets - Page 9 - Super Coupe Club of America Forums
Fast Ed's email is [email protected] or at least it was. Good luck

Andy
 

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EZ$ I guess the first thing is to understand you dont need brackets unless you want to run a bigger rotor.

If you have the earlier t-bird calipers though I think the easiest solution is to use t-bird rotors and slot the stud holes out. If you don't want to elongate the hole yourself and Breeze no longer has them, check disk brakes r us. Brake Rotors Drilled and Slotted,Hawk Performance Brake Pads,Car Brakes,Brake Drums,Cobra, discbrakesrus Might want to call them, but towards the bottom of the page I see "Rear wheel 5lug for IRS rear end with 4 1/2 and 4 1/4 inch bolt circle SLOTTED ROTORS 1989-1992 REAR WHEELS " which I believe is the correct part.

IF you want a bigger rotor, most of the bracket kits talked about on FFCars are to use mustang calipers and rotors. If you go over to the super coupe forums though there are guys who have made brackets to space out the t-bird calipers for use on the cobra rotor. You do run into an issue though as the cobra rotor is thinner then the early t-bird rotor and you will need to replace the pads well before they are fully used up to make sure the piston doesnt pop out as the pad wears down. You will also need to get a set of rings for the inside of the cobra rotors.

HTH

Scott
 

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The T-bird caliper and the Lincoln Mrk VIII caliper are a better choice, they both have larger diameter pistons than the Mustang caliper. If you buy the later model year Lincoln calipers, they are correct for the thinner rotors, and bolt right on. They also have a better parking brake cable attachment.
 

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Double check your e-brake cable. I got burned by the calipers I bought. The cable exited out the bottom and ran right into the half-shafts.
This doesn't look correct to me, rear calipers

I ended up buying ’92 Lincoln MK-VII disc brake calipers and Hawk HPS (High Performance Street) Brake Pads, 580F.627.5618R (1991-1992 LINCOLN MARK VII LSC - 5.0L)

I also had my rear discs re-drilled.
One additional thing to watch for (Rich grsc actually caught it riding with me). My rear PS tire/wheel had a slight wobble that he could see as we go-karted (I would have never seen it from the driver's seat).
I took off the rear wheel and found that the caliper wasn't completely seating on the hub. After further investigation, I found that the center of the disc was catching on part of the hub center, just enough (maybe 1/64") not not sit flat. I took a round file to it and camphered the edge just enough to clear and it set flat and no more wobble. As I said it was minor, but would really mess up your braking, I'm sure!
 
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