I admit that I have never looked at a T-Bird stub axle. But the 2015 Mustang and every other IRS stub axle I have worked on had a round cross section spring clip. The pic Kyle just posted sure looks like it would be hard to remove even w/ the proper tapered gear.
Steve look at the 2 pics in post 25. See the surface of the gear right where the splines end is at a 90 deg angle to the axle. Now go to the bottom pic in post 22. See how Kyle ground that area to a taper. The gear in post 25 would be used in a solid axle 8.8 diff. The axle would be pushed inward so you could see the groove in the splined area and a big flat c-clip slid into place. Like this.
Then the axle is pulled outward until the clip stops it's movement. Same on the other axle. Then the big pin is inserted in between the ends of the axles to hold them in that outward position. On the IRS stub axle the c-clip is replaced w/ a round cross section spring clip. As you shove the stub into the diff, the taper on the outer side of the gear compresses it. When it gets to the area where Kyle ground a taper it pops open. In the solid axle car that c-clip is all that keeps the axle from being pulled out of the diff when cornering (the axle on the inside of the corner). On the IRS car the axle doesn't have any pulling or pushing forces on it when cornering so all it needs is the location provided by a spring clip to keep it in position.
I have an IRS pumpkin from Gordon as I mentioned before. Per recent comments, "my axles wouldn't lock in". Gordon told me to grind a little off the end of each shaft. I did, and they locked right in. I didn't grind off much at all.
Karl I had a similar issue with the spider gears being for solid axle and not irs. I reported on my experience here: IRS axle issue
I took the gears to the local machine shop to have the groove made. The clips I used seem similar to the ones you showed. Hope that helps. Good luck!
Well now that I’ve had time, I ordered a Detroit Truetrac from Mike Forte to replace the Carrier, and some new axle seals. I took it to a guy who does this for a living and asked him to move the gears and make it right. He took it apart and called me and said the gears are shot! You should replace them, and this wasn’t set up right, the wear on the gears is wrong.
There’s 300 miles on it ! Or I was ripped off by the Vendor mentioned earlier on in my post, it was Not Mike Forte.
As more and more people get put in lock down it's nice to have a forum and projects like this to keep daily life going.
My occolating sander wasn't going to cut the small ajustments I needed on the hood. I got a orbital sander and some 80 and 120 grit paper. I only have a little to take off...
You would think after 15 years on the road I would be done building this cobra. This year I turned 70 and it’s time to mellow out a little. I’ll be replacing the FFR stainless pipes with j-pipes with new cats and Spintech 7000 mufflers. Spintech mufflers have been done before but I’m not sure...
Looking at getting the two piece spindles from f5 should I also lower the rack? I know there are lots of info about bump steer just want mine to go away. This is one of the areas I didn’t research much until I have driven my car for 1000 miles and cringe everyone a bump comes up.
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