I admit that I have never looked at a T-Bird stub axle. But the 2015 Mustang and every other IRS stub axle I have worked on had a round cross section spring clip. The pic Kyle just posted sure looks like it would be hard to remove even w/ the proper tapered gear.
Steve look at the 2 pics in post 25. See the surface of the gear right where the splines end is at a 90 deg angle to the axle. Now go to the bottom pic in post 22. See how Kyle ground that area to a taper. The gear in post 25 would be used in a solid axle 8.8 diff. The axle would be pushed inward so you could see the groove in the splined area and a big flat c-clip slid into place. Like this.
Then the axle is pulled outward until the clip stops it's movement. Same on the other axle. Then the big pin is inserted in between the ends of the axles to hold them in that outward position. On the IRS stub axle the c-clip is replaced w/ a round cross section spring clip. As you shove the stub into the diff, the taper on the outer side of the gear compresses it. When it gets to the area where Kyle ground a taper it pops open. In the solid axle car that c-clip is all that keeps the axle from being pulled out of the diff when cornering (the axle on the inside of the corner). On the IRS car the axle doesn't have any pulling or pushing forces on it when cornering so all it needs is the location provided by a spring clip to keep it in position.
I have an IRS pumpkin from Gordon as I mentioned before. Per recent comments, "my axles wouldn't lock in". Gordon told me to grind a little off the end of each shaft. I did, and they locked right in. I didn't grind off much at all.
Karl I had a similar issue with the spider gears being for solid axle and not irs. I reported on my experience here: IRS axle issue
I took the gears to the local machine shop to have the groove made. The clips I used seem similar to the ones you showed. Hope that helps. Good luck!
As more and more people get put in lock down it's nice to have a forum and projects like this to keep daily life going.
My occolating sander wasn't going to cut the small ajustments I needed on the hood. I got a orbital sander and some 80 and 120 grit paper. I only have a little to take off...
Where should I install the fan temp sensor? It's a 180* sensor, and the manifold to radiator thermostat is a 190*. If the fan sensor is located in the intake manifold, won't the fan run at all times unless the engine is cold?
Also, where do you plumb the heater to on the manifold/ pump?
I need to replace all lights on car blinkers,tail and brake lights as I was told by technical department none of my SAE numbers are valid🙄smh.my lights are stamped front sae j588/222 rear sae j585/588 I don’t understand how not acceptable if they were sent with the kit.said the...
figuring out how to plumb my heater. planning on having PS front manifold bung supply hot fluid ->valve->heater intake->heater output->water pump barbed fitting.
should I run it over the intake manifold or around the side?
what to do with the other barbed port on the water pump? i've seen some...
The next steps in the instructions is to start attaching the hood.
I have to decide what I will do and what I will leave to the person doing the body work and paint.
Hood - This needs sanded to fit. To me it seems better to let the body guy do this. However I need to install the hood...
A forum community dedicated to Factory Five owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, conversions, modifications, troubleshooting and drivetrain. We discuss MK4, GTM, 818, Type 65 coupe, roadsters, and more!