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Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Aloha everyone , My Diff has developed a leak at one of the axle seals after a total of 300 miles since install, some of you may remember my complaints about lots of clunking between driving and coasting. don't know if its related but its time to pull it out and let someone have a look as well as replace the seals which Gordon didn't do. I assume removal is the reverse of install but if anyone can give me tips as to the easiest procedures and "watch out fors" it would be appreciated. I'm also having a hard time getting the axles out is there anything holding them in? as I remember I just pushed them in when i assembled the rear end 5 years ago!
Thanks, Karl
 

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Is this the newer Mustang IRS setup or the older Tbird/Cobra version? I have the older IRS and can say it has c-clips that engage when you seat the axles in the diff. All you need to do is slip something like a ply bar or ball joint fork between the two and pop the axles out.

Maybe someone else knows but if this is the older IRS I don鈥檛 think you have to disassemble everything and might only need to unbolt the knuckles in one piece before pulling the half-shafts out.
 

Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, yep old IRS, I need a better tool to push that half shaft out, I just found the ford manual that explains it better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update, tried every tool imaginable, including a slide hammer with a chain wrapped around the inner cv joint- neither axle budges! I鈥檓 ready to give up, sell it and buy a new Vette.
 

Premium Member
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The wrong C-clip is on the end of the axle stub. Probably required a lot of force to get it in, too. You'll need to remove the rear cover, and remove the C-clip from the inside. Then they will just about fall out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bob thanks, I installed them as they came from factory five, I don鈥檛 remember that they were difficult, I was thinking that the clip isn鈥檛 accessible from the inside. Do I need any special tool?
 

HighTech Redneck
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The wrong C-clip is on the end of the axle stub.
Or it's an aftermarket diff, not intended for IRS use, so the circlips are hung up on the square face of the side gears. In either case, the course of action is the same. You'll probably need to push the stub axle in as far as it will go, then try to wrestle the clips off with picks, screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, etc.

Kyle
 

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Or it's an aftermarket diff, not intended for IRS use, so the circlips are hung up on the square face of the side gears. In either case, the course of action is the same. You'll probably need to push the stub axle in as far as it will go, then try to wrestle the clips off with picks, screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, etc.
Kyle
I'm sure this is 100% correct. It was installed with a differential from a solid axle car, the spider gears aren't bevel cut for the spring clip on the axle. Those axles just pop out with a screwdriver, so that's the only thing that makes sense
 

HighTech Redneck
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Thinking a little deeper into this:

Once you get the pumpkin into a position where you can get the cover off, you'll probably have to disassemble the guts of the third member to get to the side gears. Is it a clutch type or Torsen diff?

When you do get access, if you have an extra set of hands, it might be easier to compress the circlips than to try to take them off. Just thinking through the process.

Good luck,
Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok I鈥檝e taken the rear cover off- had to remove driveshaft, safety loop, and front diff mounts to move it forward enough. Here鈥檚 some pics, I can鈥檛 see the circlips really can I remove that s shaped piece to get to the axles?
357463
357464
 

HighTech Redneck
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You'll have to pull the cross-pin retaining bolt, and cross-pin out first. Then you MAY be able to pull the stub axles out far enough to compress and pull the S spring out. It might be easier to cut the S spring and replace it. Then I think you should have enough access to get the circlips?

Kyle
 

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You don't need to remove the spring, just the cross shaft, then you can PUSH the axle IN, and pry off the clip. The cross pin has nothing to do with pulling the axle OUT.
 

HighTech Redneck
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That'll probably work. I couldn't remember how far the stub shaft would actually push in. You're sure it'll go in far enough to get to the clips with the spring in the way? Not that I doubt you Rich, you're usually on top of this type thing.

Kyle
 

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If the axle wont't push in far enough to clear the spring, then it's a problem and drastic measures like cutting the spring will be needed. :mad:
After that, you move on to the blue flame wrench, and BFH.
That'll probably work. I couldn't remember how far the stub shaft would actually push in. You're sure it'll go in far enough to get to the clips with the spring in the way? Not that I doubt you Rich, you're usually on top of this type thing.

Kyle
 

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While you are at this stage, if there is enough room, I would see if a pry bar would go between the axle ends and pry the axles out. Some pressure on the axle ends and someone on the slide hammer, might do it. Just something to try before the blue wrench. If you have to use the torch, I would heat the S spring red and collapse it with some large needle nose vice grips. Lotsa clean up if you burn it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If the axle wont't push in far enough to clear the spring, then it's a problem and drastic measures like cutting the spring will be needed. :mad:
After that, you move on to the blue flame wrench, and BFH.
Yep the axles don鈥檛 move In much with the cross pin out, tried picks but broke one馃槖 pretty sure I鈥檓 going to get the sawzall and cut the s clip apart- I feel like a dentist that鈥檚 taking out wisdom teeth馃槼
 

FFCobra Craftsman
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I
Yep the axles don鈥檛 move In much with the cross pin out, tried picks but broke one馃槖 pretty sure I鈥檓 going to get the sawzall and cut the s clip apart- I feel like a dentist that鈥檚 taking out wisdom teeth馃槼
am pretty sure those S clips are available so I'd rather heat it up w/ a propane torch to let it collapse and then remove it.
 
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