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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recieved my rear brake kit from NorthRaceCars. To install the mounting bracket, I have to remove the anxles. This will be my first time to tackle something like this (removing/reinstalling axles). I have the instructions that Richard posts on his website that seem fairly straight forward.

1) Are there any other tips or secrets before I get started this weekend?

2) What's the best way to seal the diff cover when I go to reinstall it? Gasket, RTV, both? Any advice is appreciated. I don't want a leaky cover. It's the Moser Rear End ordered through FFR.

Thanks,
Michael
 

· Snake Farmer
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I found the RTV to seal really well.

Watch the large S spring when removing it, or you might get whacked in the face..
 

· FFCobra Craftsman
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The key to making the RTV only deal work is that both surfaces must be absoluetly clean and dry. The problem is that the oil in the axle seems to drip forever. I usually stick a rag as far forward under the ring gear as I can to wipe out all the remaining oil. Then I clean the surfaces w/ brake clean. I put the RTV on the cover and do one more quick wipe of the diff w/ brake clean and quick assemble the cover. Put a bolt in the top, one in the bottom finger tight and then do the rest starting at the bottom. Have all the bolts finger tight before you use a wrench. If you have the Ford trac lok you can avoid the worst smell ever by not using any friction modifier. just use Mobil1 gear oil. If you are going to use one of those plastic puch pumps that screws into the top of the plastic gear oil jug, store the oil wherever it will be warmest so it is as thin as you can get it. that makes it a lot easier to pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. I assume the Mobil1 has friction modifier already in it? Also, this is the Moser Rear that shipped straight from Moser dry, so I may have it a little easier when it comes to applying the RTV.
 

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I just unbolted them and cut them off with a plasma cutter. The wilwood ones were C shaped so you dont need to remove the axles to put them on.
 

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I just unbolted them and cut them off with a plasma cutter. The wilwood ones were C shaped so you dont need to remove the axles to put them on.
I don't think Richard's brackets are C shaped so you will need to remove the axles. They key is that once you pull that center pin out DO NOT spin the differential or the gears will fall out and you will have a tough time getting them back in. Simply orient the differential so that it is easy to get the pin out and leaves enough room to get your fingers in to place the C clips. I found that a slight downward angle worked best. Rich has a great writeup on his site:

North Racecars IRS Cobra Disk Conversion Instructions

Sealing was easy, I just placed some RTV around the ultra clean edge and reinstalled the cover and bolts. No leaks after 1000 miles.

Also, I don't believe that most gear oil has the modifier in it so you should double check your source to be sure.

Make sure you get the orientation correct or you will have to do this again. The rotors have quite a bit of backspacing so it is not immediately obvious. I would highly recommend that you place the bracket in place and install the axles loosely. Next, grab your rotor and slide it over the lug nuts to make sure you have the right spacing. If it is on backwards you will find that the bracket is rubbing on your rotor. If correct, you will have space between the two for you to bolt your calipers on.

Seems like a no-brainer but my rotors were backordered at FFR so I jumped the gun and installed the brackets in the orientation that looked most correct. I was wrong and had to take it apart again and gear oil is not my favorite smell so I really wasn't happy.

HTH
Todd
 

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I have the moser rear end as well, used red RTV sealant, no leaks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I have the moser rear end as well, used red RTV sealant, no leaks!!
What gear oil did you use? Mine was marked "do not use synthetic oil." Most everything I see recommended is synthetic.
 

· Official OLD GUY
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Hmmmmmmmm

I LOVE the smell of Diff oil on a warm summer afternoon . . .

Just my 2¢

Doc <-- Certified OLD (school) guy

:beerchug:
 

· TC COBRA
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I have the northracars set up and I reversed the brackets (right to left) so that the caliper mounts on the front of the housing. In this configuration the routing of the E-break lines is a cleaner "u" shape instead of an "s" shaped routing. It is a very popular set up...

For the RTV, no need for a gasket; run a thick bead, hand tighten the bolts until the RTV sets up then torque down; it won’t leak...

Torque down and use high strength thread lock for the rear end pin bolt. If the pin drops out it will result in a catastrophic event.

Richards instruction sheet is pretty thorough.
 

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permatex high temp rtv silicone gasket maker(red) from pepboys
 

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What gear oil did you use? Mine was marked "do not use synthetic oil." Most everything I see recommended is synthetic.
lucas SAE 80W-90 gear oil,with 4oz friction modifier
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That was easy...

Got the axles pulled out, brackets installed, and axles back in on Saturday. Everything went smooth. I was a bit intimidated at first from pictures and stuff I had seen and all the warnings everywhere about the spider gears falling out if anything was turned once the c-clips were out, but it was simple once I got started. Richard Oben's directions were great and now all I have to do is seal the cover and fill with fluid and friction modifier....my local parts store was out of the appropriate RTV.

I may have to shim the calipers just a hair with a washer once all is done. Nothing major, though.

Thanks for eveyone's help.
 

· TC COBRA
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Just as an FYI - - I recall when installing my brackets / axles that the caliper pistons had moved and needed to be adjusted to fit the pads over the rotors. You may know this already but the rear pistons screw in (as opposed to push in on the front calipers), there's a tool that autozone rents for free that makes it much easier. Oh, and the pads are usually directional...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just as an FYI - - I recall when installing my brackets / axles that the caliper pistons had moved and needed to be adjusted to fit the pads over the rotors. You may know this already but the rear pistons screw in (as opposed to push in on the front calipers), there's a tool that autozone rents for free that makes it much easier. Oh, and the pads are usually directional...
I got lucky on this one and my calipers came loaded with pads preinstalled. They fit over the rotors pretty good. There was a little rubbing on the outer portion of the bracket that will be cleared up with a washer between the caliper bracket and the mount.
 

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Thanks for all the positive comments.

One note, in the instructions we state that the brackets are over offset by design. We do that to compensate for the many variables.

SO, the order is bolt head bracket washer caliper. HTH, Richard.
 
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