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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installing in Mark 1 right now. Do I need to take off IRS bracket (with the two big 15/16" nuts, 140-200 ft lb bolts that bolts to the spindle) that the top ball joint mounts to or can I just pull the cotter pin and take the castle nut off from the botton of the upper ball joint? Due to angle, looks like I can't get bottom large bolt (of the two noted above) out without taking off caliper, backing plate, rotor, etc. Don't want to do that if I don't have to. Also it doesn't look like the existing top shock mount will work, not enough room where A arm comes together at ball joint. Maybe I will have to drill a new hole for mounting the shock further in towards the center of the car to keep the coil from hitting/rubbing the new upper A arm. Anybody been there on either of these issues? Any hints?
 

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Just undo the castelated nut on the ball joint and separate the ball joint from the bracket. You can leave the bracket attached to the spindle. You shouldn't have to redrill the mount at all to clear the shock. Mine is quite close but it clears just fine. I set the upper bolts right in the center of the adjustment slots on the chassis. I'm not sure it that's ideal or not but that was roughly where the old a-arm was when I took it off so I figured that was as good as anywhere else. I probably have a photo somewhere if you want me to e-mail it to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mike, thanks. That's what I did, take the castelated nut off that is. As I had previous bought slot fillers that "5.8" on the forum had machined, I used them with the bolt hole closest to the wheels and like you said, the shock is close but doesn't hit or rub. I have about 3/8 to 1/2 inch clearance. I found in searching the forum that someone said on later Mark 1s, that the upper shock hole was moved inward about 1/2". If the front end guy has to crank the arms back in closer to the shock to set camber and castor right, I may be drilling a new shock mount hole after all. Hope not. Thanks.
 
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