Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Too Cheap to paint!
Joined
·
6,423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How would you do it?

As I am re-building the wreck, I am thinking out loud before I get to that step. Currently, the motor is ready to go in, Christmas/New Year's week for all that. Then to get it running again & Go-Kart again.

My car is a late MkII with the improved hinge with gas struts, and the full hood hoop. I have heard many comments on it, both plus and minus, the minus mostly about how it deforms the hood. I love the convinience of just tossing it open.

My thinking is to keep the hinge & struts, but connect them with thier own thick frame, so they have thier own area to be connected & stress, them make a sub-frame for the hood, but only cover the hinge & rivet area. The back of the hood will be left just fiberglass so it does not deform, and securely mount the latches to the hood fiberglass. This time, I will also add the weatherstrip, so the hood has a seal to rest & close against.

If you were designing your ultimate hinge, What would you like?

 

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
2,649 Posts
Chepsk8
I have a MKII with the new hinge and bonded hood hoop, with gas struts, no deforming issues, although I have made several mods to the struts and hinge. First the hinge... I bent the portion of the hinge that bolts to the hood to conform some what to the hood curvature. This in it's self takes a lot stress off the hood. Unfortunately I can't post pictures here from work. Maybe that's good or I wouldn't get any work done! Any way the hinge looks like a trucated pyramid. My struts came with a piece of metal that extended the attachement flange tha twas part of the hood hoop that I bonded to the glass. I had spent a lot of time sand bagging and shaping the hood before bending the hoop to fit the hood countour and glassing it in place. I would suggest investigating bending the hinge and reviewing the position of the shock attachment points to possible take some stress off the hoop while still having enough force to keep it in the full open positon. I can send you pics and a description of how I bend the hinge if you like.
Bob Mac
FFR3981
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,389 Posts
SRP has his own frame that he molds into the hood and it works great. maybe some one will post pics for you.......mike
 

·
Senior Charter Member
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
Dan,I have had no problems with the hinge you are talking about. The problem you may be referring to is that the cross piece is straight and needs to be curved to the shape of the hinge. I cut out some two by fours with a curve that had a radius tighter than the hood curvature. Then, I sandwiched the piece between the two by fours (actually I made two so it was 4" thick) and put a bottle jack on top and jacked up my truck with it. I did it a little at a time so I could check out the fit between trials. You need a radius tighter than the hood because the metal does spring back a bit when you take the pressure off the jack.

I could look around the basement for the wood but I think I used it for kindling or something. If you are having trouble picturing what I am talking about I can draw you a picture at the next breakfast. Or stop by the house some day.
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
8,694 Posts
I think the tilt-nose Cobras shown in another recent post has the best hinge setup of all.
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
12,975 Posts
Biggest improvement for me was swapping out the struts to lighter ones, and replaceing a few of the bushings that were sloppy. Ffr srtuts were way too strong for the use. Mark 3 so not sure the same with yours.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top