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· Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay. So, last night I headed out to a local weekly car show, and there were about 6 Cobras there, one of which was touting itself as an original (Had a sign w/ Build date and chassis number). The other 5 really said neither that they were, or were not. I saw one that definitely was an FFR kit because, among other things, it had a couple plates with the chassis number (FFRxxxx) riveted on the frame. The others actually had "Manufactured by Shelby Motors" plates riveted in the engine bay. Now, some areas around here are pretty affluent. Someone was actually there with a Lamborghini, so I wouldn't put it past anyone to be driving around in a 200-300k car. But, how can I really identify a kit versus the real deal without asking the owners? Personally, I'd like to believe that all of the ones with the Shelby plates were real, because I can't believe that someone would build a kit and then claim it's an original, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

PW
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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That's easy........you can always tell who the FFR owners are,,,, because they are the ones who are SMILING, LAUGHING, AND HAVING A GOOD TIME!

Mostly becuase they were able to build a car AND have enough left over to put gas in it,,,,,,,,, so they can actually go drive the thing!

Also , as you start to spend more time around these cars, you will start noticing all the little "characteristics" about each make.

Like one big giveaway on every Midstates car I've ever seen is that the owner had to make a hole through the license plate for the trunk handle- to get the tag to fit.

The giveaways on most FFRS are the side mounting bolts for the body, the decklid hinges, the hood hinge, the roll bar, overall shape of the byootox.

Lonestars are easy t pick out because they look ,,,well (not to tick anyone off), but they look kinda weird. (to me) they are longer when looked at from the side and the rear brace for the rollbar has a "bend" in it right before it goes through the body.

Classic Roadsters have a unique square shape to their doors.

ERA's look great- and they look "right",,,hard to tell one from an original until you look down at the framerails under the hood.

You can usually spot the CSX 4000 series cars because they are the ones that have all the "DON'T TOUCH" signs all around them....... :rolleyes:

[ August 11, 2002, 03:59 PM: Message edited by: Alain V. ]
 

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The FFR has the "perky butt" so the american license plate fits, the side bolts in the body that Allen mentioned, the roll bar is 2" vs. 1.5-1.65 that most others have, external trunk hinges(some FFR's are converted to internal), round tube main frame rails, aluminum inner skin for footboxes(even the originals had fiberglass footboxes, and the hood and trunk are not lined although some have a aluminum liner installed.

The Midstates has an original style trunk designed for British plates which are wide and not very tall. My Hunter Cobra has this same style trunk which drops off pretty fast. I used a offset license plate bracket so the bottom of the plate goes over the trunk handle.

The best way to tell the originals is look for aluminum skin, fiberglass foot boxes, round tube frame rails, Jag(salsbury)rear suspension, and the big FE engine. The 289 cars are similar execpt for the engine and the early 289 cars had transverse leaf springs up front.
 

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PW,

Sorry to burst your bubble, but Shelby VIN plates are available aftermarket and i'll bet over half the replicas use them.

Also, don't go by the VIN alone. I know a couple of replica guys that have a CSX numbers. The main difference between originals and replicas is that originals have aluminum bodies. Even then you can't be positive because there is at least one replica manufacturer also making aluminum bodies (Kirkham). With all the aftermarket stuff available, builders can make a pretty authentic looking replica.

I would agree with the other posts, it's much easier to get to know the kits and each of their quirks. Usually there is something about the car that will 'give it away'. Chances are, that when you see Cobras, 99 out of 100 will be replicas.

Gene
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by 6T5 Cbra:
PW,

Sorry to burst your bubble, but Shelby VIN plates are available aftermarket and i'll bet over half the replicas use them.

No bursting here. I figured they were not the real deal, I just couldn't imagine why anyone would want to pass off a kit as the real thing. I, for one, would be damn proud of a car that I built myself! I mean really, how many people in the world can say that they did that, much less were even able to finish the job?

Just my $0.02.

PW
 

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Which is exactly why I will NOT put a VIN plate on the car that says anything other than what it is. I have no desire for anyone to think I have a genuine Cobra. Any properly constructed FFR is more civilized than any of Shelby's 1966 "kits".
 

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About the VIN plate....I have one in the engine compartment that says AC Cars. I will be swapping it out for the FFR VIN plates I ordered.

What really pi$$esme off is that there is a Contemporary Cobra here in town that always insists on paking next to me at the local cruises. He has a Chevy big block and one of those Shelby Motors VIN plates on his dashboard. Visitors to the cruise-in swear his is an original just because of the plate despite the Chevy motor. He won't even correct people when they tell him its an original. :mad:
 

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A lot of the replicas out here have Shelby American plates under hood. It always cracks me up at carshows to see people pointing at it and telling each other "It's a REAL ONE".

Forrest
FFR and proud of it!
 

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Originally posted by PW:

I, for one, would be damn proud of a car that I built myself! I mean really, how many people in the world can say that they did that, much less were even able to finish the job?
Right attitude, be proud! 'You learn well grasshopper'.

6T5
 
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