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Charter Member
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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to lower my roll bar 2" but am concerned that the mounting brackets on the frame won't line up after the bars are cut. It seems like the rear bracket would be too far back and need to be cut off and re welded in order to work. Does anyone have any information on this mod?
 

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Senior Member
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1,743 Posts
Don't be concerned. They don't line up.
You will need to relocate the rear brace... move the hole in the body and it makes the rear bezel a little tougher to snug up.
BUT your biggest problem is the Ffrog Fforum "roll bar police".
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,688 Posts
Run away...the roll bar police are coming.

"it's not safe to lower it"
"you'll crush your skull when you flip the car in the school zone"
"you won't be able to take it to the track without enough clearance"

 

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SuperCobra 1
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14,690 Posts
You can lower your roll bar all you want but if you ever want to race your car they want you to have 2" above the top of the helmet, and a bolt thru all roll bar mounts including the one on top.

If you just want it for car shows and cruising should be fine.

 

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Senior Member
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2,990 Posts
I plan on lowering my roll bar to fit under the hard top I bought. I am a very long way away from doing that but what I was thinking of doing is building an off set adapter so I didn't have to move the back mount for the roll bar and so I could install the higher roll bar if I wanted to race. The roll bar bezel would have to be larger to cover the larger hole but could be used for both roll bars if it was turned around. I'm not sure if this makes sense and I don't have any pictures or drawings. If you are interested I will see if I can make a drawing of the adapter. Here are some posts that might help:

http://www.ffcars.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=40;t=014460#000000

http://www.ffcars.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=40;t=008711

http://www.ffcars.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=40;t=005636#000001
 

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901 Posts
I lowered mine 1 1/2". Had to cut off the rear mount and move it forward and in. This is best done before the buildup of the frame. If you didn't mind the look's, you could make a bolt in rear bracket and not have to weld on the frame. I am in Pasadena and would be happy to help you out (after Knott's). These are pics of the offset of the hole in the body and how I aligned the new hole.





Dan Ziol
 

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Supermoderator
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12,393 Posts
Let's have one roll-bar-lowereing thread where we just answer the question instead of lecturing on the evils of it.

I lowered mine 2.5" and my head is still attached to my neck.

Cut the main hoop...as much as you want. Despite what you've heard, it's not a crime. The rear leg mounting point must be relocated, as well as the cutout in the trunk floor aluminum. The hardest part is locating and cutting the new hole in the fiberglass. It's not terribly difficult, just tedious.
 

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If you're going to race it the track officials will poo-poo you if your helmet isn't 2" below the bar.

Personally I'm too tall, so had to leave it where it is/was.

Neatest cut job goes to Greg W, he got rid of the down bar all together so it was just two hoops.

I was more interested in safety since I have a realllly big motor so left mine alone.

Some have even deleted the bar altogether. I think that looks KILLER...but my wife wouldn't go for it.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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4,257 Posts
I ran all last year with NO rollbar.

Take that, rollbar police!

It's not for lack of bread, like the Grateful Dead....oh, sorry. I actually have a black full size rollbar, a chrome 2" cut down one and a chrome passenger one hanging in my garage. I just like the look without it. 90%+ of the other kits out there have fake rollbars. I've seen them in back of the seat or in the trunk held to fiberglas tubs with hose clamps.
 

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I'm thinking the best solution is - FLEXIBILITY.

The roll bars aren't that big of a PITA to remove or change. Keep the STD/TALL roll bars when you have a track event on the calendar and go with a shortened set (hoops only or none)when foul weather and a top is on the calendar. Sure ... safety is a concern, but I'm willing to accept some risk while driving through the school zone. If I was totally risk averse, I wouldn't be driving the car in the first place!
 

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http://www.jimmybiggstv.com/yourway/Hole_Shot/Mustang%20wreck%20at%20ATCO.wmv

Probably a 1 in a whole lot (100's? 1000's? 10,000's?) would flip the car. If you do, and you don't have one, you'll be a statistic, not posting the rebuild photos on the website. Ask Dave Smith - he rolled his.

I love the *no* roll bar look. If something happens though...welll..[/splat]scrape scrape[/endsplat]
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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2,315 Posts
Originally posted by antifreeze:
I'm thinking the best solution is - FLEXIBILITY.

The roll bars aren't that big of a PITA to remove or change. Keep the STD/TALL roll bars when you have a track event on the calendar and go with a shortened set (hoops only or none)when foul weather and a top is on the calendar.
Unfortunately, the rear leg will require a different location for the body hole if it's lowered :-( meaning this flexability -while being a great idea- is not possible.


Originally posted by Perl:
I plan on lowering my roll bar to fit under the hard top I bought.
Perl, what kind of hardtop did you buy ? I am only aware of the APE hardtop and I was told it fits over the stock roll hoops.


Boy, I sure remember how the roll bar police raided my threads when I brought up the issue a few months ago -- going ahead with it anyway !


FFR did my body cutouts with the rear leg holes omitted -- that way I can cut them myself in the right location (and have no patching to do) after I lower the roll bars ~2". They just don't look right at their stock height to me, but that's a personal thing...

-SB
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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3,751 Posts
I must look at my car too much, because when I see a non-ffr kit with a lower roll bar, it just doesn't look right.

These cars are all about doing it your own way.
 

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Charter Member
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144 Posts
Perl, you must be of small stature. I have the Ape top and I can hardly get in and out with that one. The top is a little claustrophobic at full height, can't imagine lower.
 

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Hi All:

Yes I am of small stature. 5'9" and 150 lbs. After months of research and looking at pictures of every hard top I could find I bought a Midstates hard top. Totally personal preference. I just like the look of the Midstates top the best. I had them leave extra material on the back edge so I can fit it to the FFR body because Midstates tops do not fit the contour of the back of the FFR body. I am a long way away from figuring out how the hard top will sit on the body so I don't know anything about how much I will have to cut off the roll bars and how much head room there will be. This is just one of many projects still ahead of me but if I was done then I would just have to find another project. The hard tops that are available that I know of are:

Ape http://apeproducts.netfirms.com/hardtop.htm
Midstates http://www.cobracountry.com/midstates/
Norm at [email protected]
G-Force http://www.gforcesportscars.com.au/parts.html
King Cobra ??? that may be the same as Norm above

Here is a post that points to other posts about tops:
http://www.ffcars.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=051534
 

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Premium Member
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You can get a really nice hardtop that fits the stock rollbars from APE. The link is on the home page. Take a look before you lower. Seems like a lot of work to me for ?? return and less head clearance in case of a rollover.
 

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C'mon you know you all want to cut them ugly bars off entirely...join me in the 'Hard Head Cobra Owners Group™' :D

 
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