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As you may know I’ve already started the engine with minimal wiring and done a small gokart too. I have few simple questions and need to take care of some odds and ends this weekend. Here it goes.

A) In the upper steering shaft, one is supposed to plug in a couple small washers, I can not locate them, please measure one and let me know what size they are so I can buy them.

B) How tall of a bolt goes in the steering boss and shaft after the wood steering is placed? And does it need a washer to keep the hub/boss in place?

C) There is not much wiring done. Should I rivet the trunk and rear side aluminum in, or should I still hold them in place temporarily until wiring (including final battery wire) is done?

D) I’m using a manual grease gun. In the front suspension, upper/lower ball joint, how much grease must be injected? Should I be filling the boots? Does steering rack need grease anywhere?

E) I have 3-link and coilovers in the rear. Is the only place to inject grease, the LCA just under the seats where it attaches to frame?

F) Does the Driveshaft from Forte come greased already? If not how much and should I be using the same grease as I used on the suspension?

G) I have Team III rims. Can I place the spinners permanently? Should I be using blue Loc-Tight between the center and spinner? Do I ever need to remove the center? Should I be tightening the set screws? Does this interfere with putting the wheels on and off?

H) How much to torque the 5 lug-nuts on each rim? 90 Lbs?

I) CobraEarl is now sending some kind of reinforcement for his Touring Trunk Kit. There is a 3/4" steel and L shape aluminum. Does anyone have picture of how it is installed?

J) I’m not ready to carpet yet, but would it be unreasonable to begin covering some openings in between the aluminum panels. I was planning to use Silicone, let dry, cover with air conditioning aluminum tape, then cover with Dynamat or Fatmat and carpet. I’m not as sure about the expanding stuff as it grows fast and make a mess. Any suggestions? Or should I stick with my plan?

Sorry for a long post and many questions that came up. But I’m sure my “Fan Club” would appreciate it too. LOL

Cheers, thanks and Happy and Healthy Hoildays Folks.

-Kouros
 

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Master
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Kouros,

A) In the upper steering shaft, one is supposed to plug in a couple small washers, I can not locate them, please measure one and let me know what size they are so I can buy them.

They are special spriny type washers. PM your address and i'll mail you two. I also couldn't find mine and FFR sent me a bag full :D

Troy
 

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Troy,

Do you have two more? I can't find mine either.

Thanks, Michael
 

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17,842 Posts
c: Finish the wiring and plumbing first.

d: Fill the grease boots about half way for now. For the other joints, fill until a little spooges out. Steering rack doesn't need grease.

f: Drive shaft is already greased.

H: I generally use 80 pound, criss cross pattern.

i: I don't have a picture, but it's a pretty simple install. It can really only fit in one place. He'll send you a disc with some pictures on it of exactly where it fits.

j: That's exactly what I did.
 

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A) check out this link for a picture of the bellville washer. http://www.ffcars.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi/ubb/get_topic/f/1/t/063293.html?

B) Mine is a black allen bolt and it does get a washer. I can't remember how long though.

C) Finish running lines first.

H) From my service manual "CAUTION: Failure to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern can result in high brake disc runout, which will speed up the development of brake roughness, shudder and vibration. Install the wheel nuts hand-tight, then lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts to specification in a star-pattern."



I step the torque up. Hand tighten then torque 15, then 45, then 95 all in the star pattern.

J) Use stainless steel tape. It is much stronger and sticks better than aluminum tape. I got mine at JC Whitney. It took about 1 month to get though. I don't think I would buy anything again from them.

Paul
 

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drmcat
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My belville washers were in with the steering wheel center hub and bolt, all in a small box. I looked everywhere else before calling FFR for a replacement, found 'em the next day.

mcat
 

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Kouros,
A) Here's a pic for you. Note that they have a slight conical shape to them. Easy to think they are just normal washers. About 1/4" ID and just under 1/2" OD.



Cheers, Rod
 

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A. My bellville washers were also with the steering hardware. Check your packaging again. Make sure you install these washers, if not, you will have play in your steering.

B. My steering boss came with an Allen key bolt as well, and yes it does need a washer.

C. I would wait and rivit the trunk last. IMHO it should be one of the last things you do before installing the body.

D. Fill the boots, until they ooze out a little. Only place that need's lub on your steering is your tie rod ends.

E. Sorry, I have IRS, don't know much about 3 link.

F. No grease for the driveshaft is really needed now. But it won't do any harm to squirt a bit in the U-joints. Over time, you should occasionally grease the U-Joints as well.

G. I have the same Team III wheels as you, and I would not put Loc-Tite on the spinners. They need to be easily removed to have your wheels balanced, or the tires replaced. I think that putting a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the spinners would be a good idea, since it is aluminum. This will prevent any galling of the threads.

H. I've always done 80-85lbs on my cars. And, yes, ALWAYS torque them in a cris-cross pattern.

I. Not sure about that one.

J. Don't use the expanding stuff. Not correct for this application, and as you said, makes a freaking mess. Home Depot sells a silicon specifically made for aluminum and metal. That is what I've been using with very good results. Here's a pic.




I have, and am using the silicone in between all the joints of the panels, as well as using it to seal off all areas where water can protrude into the cockpit. I then plan on using Fat Mat for sound deadning of the aluminum, then heat insulation, then carpet.
 
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