Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am using American Autowire wire kit and could really use some solid info on how to start my wiring . My dash is assembled but not wired .Do I buy some wire for that and wire it up or what.Where do I route to from under the steering column .This part has me really flustred and I dont know why.I feel kinda stukid here I think its in my head.Please help me out of this hole I've made for myself.
Sam
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
wow scares you too huh?
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
148 Posts
Search the wiring threads on the main forum. Goto greg's build site and review his pictures... many resources... I just recently started and now am ~75% complete... "just do it" works for more than just Nike. As you work through it take notes on things that just materialize in your brain... high/low beam switch, turn signals, etc., etc., how do you want them, where, ease of reach while driving, you'll get it.

matt
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
148 Posts
...actually on the forum looking for vent duckting picture details and think I got an idea...

:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,372 Posts
Hi Sam –

I am just finishing up my AAW install. I would advise you to take your time. I think I just looked at build sites and the AAW diagrams for a week before I got started. Lay the main harness out on a bench and get familiar with the layout. Here are the steps I followed –

Figure out where you want to mount the fuse box. I built a hinged panel to hold mine under the foot box with a piece of piano hinge and some thumb screws threaded into the frame. I copied this from another forum member and think it is a great feature as I am too old and fat to lay on my back under the dash to change a fuse.



Then wire your dash. Take your time and follow the AAW directions. I used molex connectors from Mike Everson to make the dash easily removable. I also attached my dash with industrial Velcro so I could easily remove it.



I wired the rear first because it is relatively easy and straight forward. Many builders use some conduit to protect the harness. I used five feet of carflex from home depot down the driver side of the tunnel. If I had a rear mounted battery I would use a second piece of carflex on the passenger side for the battery cable. In my case I am using a Breeze front mounted battery so you won’t see this on mine.



The wiring goes out of the foot box where the firewall meets the inside drivers footbox.



The starter and engine wiring goes out the same hole and under the firewall to the starter solenoid. I mounted my solenoid on the passenger side engine mount.

You will need to figure out what circuits you want to run relays on. I used circuit breakers and relays on a panel behind my dash. This is power by a 10GA wire from the bat. terminal on the starter solenoid.



Finally run the front harness forward for the headlights, horn, and fan.

I hope this helps. This was by far the hardest part of my build so far.

Good luck - Scott
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,317 Posts
Sam

Excellent pics and examples above. The first thing I would do to get it started is to just pull the groups of wires to the section they need to go to like the "engine compartment, trunk area, dash area, Etc. Then I would add an extra two or three wires to each section for future stuff just in case and label them at each end. You will use them for sure and if you don't no big deal. Then put each section in some sort of conduit like you see above. I would also run a good guage ground for the the starter and for the MSD box all the way from the battery as well. I would also recommend running a ground wire from the engine block or heads to the negative side of the battery you will not regret it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
659 Posts
Quicksnake,

I started my wiring about a week ago, using an AAW HIghway 15 kit. Spooked me too, but now I'm almost done.

AAW lays out their suff in well thought out fashion. With the Highway 15 kit, each curcut is bagged seperately and has its own diagram in each package. AAW has a specific order to follow; and while in the beginning it may not make sense, it will in the end.

I felt that their wiring diagram sheets were very easy to read. I did get stumped twice, once with the 175amp Mega fuse and how to ditch the GM Column clip, so I called their 800 techline the next business day and they had me dialed-in within minutes.
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
12,975 Posts
Take your time and try to visualize how the wires will be run to the front and rear of car. Start by mounting your fuse box,most go under the drivers side pedal box. For the dash I found it easyer to hard wire all the gauges. Once done I cut the harness and installed a plug. This gave me the quick disconnect plug for the dash. Front lights,horn wires run across dash behind firewall and thru passengers side firewall then along 3/4" tube to the front of car. Engine wireing ran thru the small D shape hole on driver side lowwer fire wall to the engine sensors(temp,pressure,ect.) and ignition. Battery cable and rear lights,gas gauge ran thru the trans tunnel inside plastic conduit to the rear of car. I pluged each individual harness into the plug coming from the fuse box then once wires were ran to whatever they were going to be connected to cut to length and connected. In rear once wires were connectd to the lights, the harness was cut and a disconnect plug installed,same up front,once lights wired cut the harness and install a plug. This gives you the ability to only need to disconnect a plug instead of needing to disconnect each wire when you need to take body off and on.
If you want to install quick disconnect plugs they need to be bought seperatly since not enough come with the aaw harness. For fan relay and power I used the a/c heat blower motor curcuit(orange wire I believe). Make sure to write down any wireing changes on your wire scematic for future use. Any wire used for other then what it is labeled as, use the electritians roll of stick on wire numbers. It's a roll of tape with numbers on it so you can label wires with numbers. Came in handy when useing a wire for other then it's labeled use. Label wire with number and write the change down on your scematic sheet.
 

·
section 8
Joined
·
5,136 Posts
Don't be scared call Donnie at AAW and order a univrsal gage wiring kit it makes it real easy and has big plugs for easy removal. The colors even match the aaw harness so you can mock it up on the dining room table (my wife loved that) . I found the fat wires the scariest only because of intended voltage /amperage. Take your time grommet as needed and dont leave any bare wire. Also I found it easier to loosely use tie wraps every couple inches during assembly , and then tighten when done. (for when you forget a wire). Bob
 

·
Too Cheap to paint!
Joined
·
6,417 Posts
I have the AAW harness in mine. I hate the stuff. After scratching my head at thier lousy schematics, I finally got a handle on it, but did alot of things the way I wanted. I also ran extra wires to the trunk & engine, and then wrapped the whole harness in heavy black tape. No GM switched for me either.

I do have a wiring diagram I made of my car, much easier than thier sheets.

My .02$
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
1,739 Posts
Read the diagrams, study them before you go forward.

Study the harness and get a feel for what is in there read whats on the wire.

Choose a module, such as the engine, thats where I started and take it one wire at a time.

The key for me was one wire at a time and I was done in about one month.

It worked right the first time. Since then I have made a few modifications to add more features, but the basic wiring is stable and good.

I have little previous experience, mostly with trailers and boats.

Rick
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the I squared pic but thats kinda steep $$$$ when I'm in at $300 for the AAW already . Also thanks for all the help from the rest of you keep it comming.
Sam
 

·
section 8
Joined
·
5,136 Posts
You can also push out the pins holding the wires into the connectors to remove any wires you wont be using. This neatens(?)it up. I agree on the schematics and the GM switches. AAW also sells switches etc check their website. Bob
 

·
FFR Craftsman
Joined
·
5,834 Posts
I don't know if it'll help but try John Hudson's excellent site. Click "Build!" and just scour all of the links (not everything has a sub-page.)

http://www.my427sc.com

Before I-Squared, I printed out dozens of John's pictures. As Wayne pointed out, ISQE does eliminate probably 50% of the wiring if not more.
 

·
Senior Charter Member
Joined
·
2,837 Posts
I'll echo the AAW (Donny) tech support suggestion. Donny was amazingly helpful and cleared out a lot of fog for me. You need to keep in mind to not relate the schematics to the physical locations of your connections. Call Donny and he'll explain all of this for you.

800-482-WIRE

BTW, that's my car on their site: http://www.americanautowire.com/news/Customers_Cars_4.cfm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,372 Posts
I do have to agree with Wayne and Chepsk8. While I posted the pics above in an effort to help, I would not want future builders to consider them an endorsement. If I had it to do over again, I would find the extra money to do the low-end I Squared kit. I ordered the AAW harness with the kit, and I did not do a lot of upfront research. It is not that the AAW harness is bad, its just that it is a very basic general purpose GM harness. It requires at least $100 of additional investment, and modifications to a number of circuits (turn signal, hazard, headlights...) to install. You need to document the changes or you will really be scratching you head later!

Just my 2 cents. Good luck with your install.
 

·
Official OLD GUY
Joined
·
3,874 Posts
Scott L, Wayne Presley,

The wiring goes twice as fast if you don't spend all your time making all those wire loops when you need one source to feed many connections on a terminal block.

Can you say "Bridge Strips"? They are available from most electronic stores for about $.05 a piece and really clean up the terminal strip layout.

One less connection to go bad is one less place to look when it does . . .

Don't shoot the messenger . . . I love the I-Squared setup and would (will) do it that way if there is a next time.

Doc
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
916 Posts
What is the route from the front of the trans.tunnel to behind the dash??
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
1,359 Posts
I also used the AAW, wired it myself, used their tech service line several times, and go the whole thing up and running with ZERO problems first try! I did the rear first and ran the wires through conduit into the cockpit, then i did the headlight harness, then the starter/relay harness, and lastly the dash harness. I used plenty of relays and laid things out before placing in conduit. I was scared, too - and I'm an engineer (well I'm a chemical engineer so that doesn't help too much with wiring :D ). But the best thing to do is to just go over the diagrams without wiring a thing 2 or 3 times, then just commit to doing one section at a time. It's like baptism by fire - just do it! Post alot, call AAW - you will get it.

I will no longer be afraid to wire a project car and I think AAW has a perfectly fine product. Good luck and I'll be looking for your posts.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top