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OK, so i just bought a cobra and it has the 4 lug config from an 89 or so mustang. I wanted to buy wheels for it but apparently the don't sell anything nice for 4 lug. With this said i have two options, 1-) I have a buddy of mine that will custom make wheels to any size and lug pattern (he has access to a CNC machine) but just in materials and labor I still have to dish out $3k and that's without tires. The wheels are 3 piece forge 360 concave SL10. Wheel model link





I was thinking of flat black all around because the car is flat black, see bellow.




The other option is change the setup to a five lug and go with the Hallibrand replica flat black as well, not many options with flat black paint. Here is the dilemma... 1-) I don't know how to change the setup from a 4 lug to a 5 lug and from what i have read it will cost me about $2k to do so. 2-) To change the setup from a 4 to a 5 is about $2k and a new set of replicas is $1,199 plus tires, this will bring me to about the same if i where just to have the wheels custom made.

I guess the better question to ask is should i go the custom made route? is there a downside to using 4 lug?
 

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Official OLD GUY
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two options

If you car is disk/drum configured, you can replace the front rotors with a 5 lug design of the same disk diameter and have the rear axles re-drilled for 5 studs and pick up some 5 lug drums in the same size.

Or

you can replace the rear axles with fox axles that are 5 lug and pick up some 5 lug drums in the same size.


Almost everything else should cross-fit from 4 to 5 lug pattern: brake calipers, rear brake shoes.

The idea here is to make what you have already, 5 lug.

All of this is if you want to stay with the brake system you have now . . . if not, there are many alternatives, all cost $$$.

If your car id disk/disk replace what was said above about driums, with rotors of the 5 lug design.

HTH

Doc :beerchug:
 

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Depending on what you need to do with the rear brakes it should not cost anywhere near $2000 to convert to 5 lug. Fronts is just a matter of changing the rotors, not a big deal. The rear is a little more involved to change the axles but still not very difficult. Once you have the 5 lugs you have a vast variety of wheels to pick from.
 

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Here is how I did mine back in 2002:

5 Lug Conversion Options:

This page is mostly geared towards the stock 4 lug wheels and stock 87-93 GT/LX wheels. Hence the "budget" name to the page. Here are your options for converting to 5 lug:

For the front rotors, use the rotors from a mid 80's Lincoln Continental, Lincoln Mark VII (85-91), or '84-'86 SVO. This will keep the cost down and allow you to keep the stock front brakes. You can buy the rotors for about $40-60 each. You an also purchase after market front rotors like the Power Slot brand in 5 lug. These cost about $99 each.

**Important note here! The SVO/Lincoln front rotors will NOT work with the Ford 98 & 99+ Cobra, Y2K Cobra R wheels, and 97+GT 17" wheels. Most of the wheels will mount up (98 cobra and the Bullitt wheels will not), but you will not be able to mount the center cap due to the larger dust cap on the rotor. To run these wheels, you need to convert over to the SN95 front brakes (this includes spindles, rotors, hubs and calipers). Please check this [link] for all the info and parts you need. Alternatively you can use a wheel spacer, but it is not recommended.

The Lincoln/SVO rotors will work for the 95 Cobra R wheel, 16" SN95 Pony wheel, and 99+ 15" & 16" wheel since they have a different center design and cap. If the center of the wheel is recessed, the Lincoln/SVO dust rotor will most likely be too large for the center cap of the wheel.

The 1995 Ford Cobra R wheel comes in two different offsets, 24 mm and 36 mm. The original Cobra R wheel, the R58, has a 24 mm backspacing which is good for all four corners of a SN-95 car. The R58 also fits well in front of a Fox body car that has the Cobra brake upgrade. But the rear of a Fox M2300-K car requires use a later model, the M179, which has 36 mm of backspacing, and therefore places the wheel 12 mm further inboard to clear the fender well.

To keep the stock rear wheel offset, the '83-'92 Ranger/Bronco II Left (driver) side axle (29-5/32") from a 4cyl or 3.0L V-6 with the 7.5" rear end, or '86-'97 Aerostar RIGHT side axles (29-5/32") is what you want. They are the same rear axles; the center section is just on the opposite side when you compare the rear ends. You will need the drums from either of these vehicles also if you are staying with rear 9" drums. The 7.5 axle Rangers & Aerostars use 9" drums. These parts are direct 5 lug replacements for the stock 9" rear drums on the 79-93 Mustangs.

**Important: Don't get the axles and drums from a Ranger with the 4.0L engine, as they use 10" rear drums with a wider 8.8" axle (unless you want to convert to larger drums!)

Most of the larger mail order companies have kits that you can purchase, although they are overpriced! The front conversion using the SVO/Lincoln parts running $180-199 for the front 11" rotors (which you can buy for about $40-60 each) and the rear axles and drums for $180-199 (less than $50 from a Ranger or Aerostar).
 

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There is a 5 lug conversion kit for 28 spline axles at latemodelrestorations.com for $399.00 with a free shipping sale now. The 31 spline axle kit is a little more. Both kits have everything you need.
Good Luck
Norm
 

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For fox body spindles (mine are off a 90 GT), use Raybestos 6009R rotors with the stock mustang bearings to convert to 5 lug.

I did the 5 lug disc conversion in the rear so I don't know any specific part numbers for that portion.
 

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Sorry I told you about late model restorations. Fortes parts (a forum vendor) has all the the stuff needed to change to 5 lug and also do a disc brake conversion for the rear if you want. His prices beat what I paid at the other place.
Norm
 

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Snake Farmer
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Actually, your car looks pretty darn nice with the wheels you already have on it.

The black looks good on that style wheel, better than the chrome IMHO. :)
 

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The overriding advantage to swapping to 5 lug is that there are literally tons of Mustang wheels that will be a simple bolt-on proposition from then on. I think it is the best way to go by far. Since you have 4 lug all the way, I assume you also have drum rear brakes. You can stay w/ drums and still go 5 lug and this would be the least expensive way to do it. Upgrading to 5 lug discs is an idea which has merit simply because you will only need to open the diff and deal w/ that once. But it is not needed and the discs don't give an apprecialable gain in braking performance in and of themselves. So this is one of the things you can do in steps.
One other thing to keep in mind is that you will not be able to run the 10.5x17 w/ 315 tires unless you also do the 315 mod. Do a search for details on that. You can do a partial 315 mod and get away w/ 315s as long as you don't mind raising the rear ride height some.
I have gone through what you are contemplating twice now and can add that this can also bedone in steps front to rear. I ran my car for 1.5 years w/ 5 lugs on the rear and 4 lugs on the front.HTH
 

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Snake Farmer
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the black cobra has t-bird disc brakes on the back with the stock 8.8 housing
Yes but they are still 4 lug..
I meant if you wanted the 5 lug. As far as I know currently you need to re-drill the turbo coupe rotors to a 5 bolt pattern, to continue to use the TC calipers. I am not aware of TC sized rotor, already designed for 5 lugs.
 

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Sorry to bring back a dead one...but this is spot on what I'm looking for.

Has anyone know done the upgrade to one of the 5 lug disk options out there from a 4 lug drum? Do you need to re do the brake lines from the single flex hose and distribution block on the rear end to a distribution block on the car and separate flex hoses? I am assuming the E-Brake cables also need to be redone?

Thanks!!
 

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http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...e-retro-gonna-need-almost-step-step-help.html

here is my pretty-good writeup that will answer your questions. the procedure involves opening the rear, removing the c-clip, and pulling the axles.

you (probably) don't need to re-do the distribution block and/or flex hose. the hard lines on the rear axle can be "bent at the ends" for many applications, and then it could be a matter of adding a flexible line to the calipers.

it will depend on your specific setup, but i was able to re-use my drum-brake parking cables with a clevis from Lokar.

.
 
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