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Discussion Starter · #1 ·






i posted a while back on this, but it was requested to get a photo of the e-brake handle. the second photo isn't so great, but it shows the cable connection before i shortened the cable. the third photo is just there for reference, to show others what tool is used to cut the cables and crimp new ferrules.

when the handle is pulled all the way up, it barely holds the rear brakes. it definietely won't hold on my angled driveway. if i cut the cables any shorter, i can't pull them enough to connect them at the t-point.

how is this setup adjustable? something on the handle?

this is from a '90GT convertible with a/t, and stock rear w/ drum brakes.

[ October 02, 2006, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: NiceGuyEddie ]
 

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Did you run the cables under the 4" main tube? This will take up some slack. I also put a bolt on the 3/4" down tube on the passender side of the trans tunnel rear angled piece and ran the cables over it. Also, (and this is hard to describe) can you tighten the coiled up spring in the ebrake mechanism by getting one more revolution out of it and reattaching it? Hard to describe, but if you take the handle out of the car, and connect the t-bar equalizer to it and hold some pressure on the t-bar, pull the ebrake handle, and you'll notice the coiled up spring begin to compress. When it reaches a certain tension, it starts to engage and you hear the click. If you spin that coiled spring around inside it's housing one more revolution and reattach the t-bar, it will then compress more before it engages, thus allowing you to get a tighter engagement on the rear brakes. Not sure if this makes sense. I have the exact same setup as you, and my e-brake barely held the car on a slight incline. After adjusting and taking up slack as per my picture, mine e-brake is now rock solid.


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·


yes, i ran the cables under the round tube. i knew i should have included this photo.

(the blue plastic and tape is now gone.)
 

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Eddie there is no adjustment per se. The stock handle has a ratcheting mechanism in it to take up the slack in the cable . Be sure the rear brakes are adjusted correctly (hard sometimes if the posi is tight) this is how the system adjusts . The only other opportunity you have to better this , is to follow Saleens method.
1.Remove handle Assy.
2.Move ratchet pulley(the part the cable attaches to) install Saleen or FRPP adjustable front cable
3.Weld pulley 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn from the beginning of the travel.This will render the ratchet mechanism ineffective and allow adjustment via cable.
I did this as well as make a new mounting bracket for the cable housings farther back on the frame thus allowing more movement of the rear cables. Bob
 

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Like Bob mentioned if the rear drum brakes are not fully adjusted the e brake will not hold as well. Adjust rear shoes until you can just barelly hear,feel the shoes starting to drag the drum. Sneak up on the adjustment since over tightening requires you to hold the self adjuster away from ratchet pawl with a small screw driver,basiclly a pain to unadjust. The handle adjustment also needs to be correct. It takes up the slack in the cables so brakes grab as handle is pulled without it reaching the end of it's travel.
If you notice e brake holds cae better when trying to move forward then if moveing backwards,it is a sign rear shoes need adjusting.
E brake dos.nt hold either direction, e brake ratchet needs to be set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
GUYS,

i am starting to get it. i need just a little more detail on how to adjust the ratchet. are you saying simply put the handle down, pull back on the cables as hard as possible, and i should hear the ratchet "click" a few times?
 

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Eddie it is much easyer to use a pin(big nail) to hold the spring/rathet in position. Did mine in a vise but see no reason two people could'nt to it one above and one below the car. Do you have a mustang service manual? They show the adjustment in the brake section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
...i just looked under the car at the inside of the e-brake, and i am not understanding where to put the pin/nail.

by any chance does anyone have a photo, or can someone use Paintbrush/Photoshop, mark up my photo and re-post it?
 

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Eddie, here's the original shipping pin installed in my leather handle. See the hole it is going through? The pulley wheel and spring need to be rotated until the hole on the ratchet plate lines up with this one. Simply pull back on the short cable that is attached to the pulley until they line up. If you don't have your trans tunnel cover on you might be able to do it by yourself, otherwise you'll need someone to pull on the cable under the car.

HTH...
Mark

Pic of hole in handle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks guys, but i am afraid that i just don't get it.

in my very top photo, you can see the teeth on the cog that spins around when you pull the cable. at the end of the toothed section, there is a hole.

i could not seem to get any type of hole to line up with the small hole seen in the side as seen in my photo.

this is what i did do today: i pulled on the cable with all my might. a friend was under the car with me and he was able to wedge a screwdriver into one of the teeth to hold it in place. as a matter of a fact, he was able to pry the spring a litle further. i was able to shorten my cables 3" and re-attach the T. the thing is, the brake is now even looser than before. you pull up on the handle and the rear wheels still turn freely.

the manual says to pull up on the handle so the ratcheting action can take up the slack.

what am i doing wrong?
 

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Hi Eddie,
Not sure here but did you take it all apart when you took it out of the Mustang? You would normally do the proceedure descibed above when you take it out of the Mustang so that it stays tensioned. If this is the case you may have to pull the handle and take the cable out. Then wind the wheel as much as you can to insert the pin (nail or whatever) and reinstall the cable. Put it back in the car and hook up your cables and then pull the pin.

Hope this helps!

Cheers, Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks, rod.

i suppose it couldn't hurt to remove the handle and see what i can do, but i don't understand how i could possibly wind the spring any tighter then when i pulled the T as described above.

will advise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·


here are two photos. maybe something is wrong with the e-brake, maybe something is missing. i am 100% dumbfounded here. i can't seem to see how i can turn the spring by hand, etc.

once again, this is a handle from a '90GT convertible with a/t. maybe it's different.
 

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OOPs Double post
Jon D.
 

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Eddie,
Used your pic. Red arrow remove cable
Yellow arrow wind wheel counter clock wise this winds spring. Have nail ready when winding to put in hole indicated by green arrow. This will stops the wheels from loosing tension. Reinstall cable while nail is still installed. now when you pull the nail the cable will pull back all the way to the bracket and will still have some tension on it. This is what I get from what everyone is saying.

HTH.
Jon D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·


i figured out the nail thing. it turns out, i was able to get even more tension in the spring by pulling it with all my might from underneath, wedging a screwdriver into the cog, and i was even able to get another 10° by prying it. in short, i was able to shorten the cables by 3". (same as above.)

ther strange thing is, before, the e-brake would hold, but just slightly. now, it doesn't hold at all, even thought the cable is tighter.

here is a photo of my rear drum, is there something i can adjust?
 

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Sorry wrong post.
 
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