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FFCobra Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #1
I need to know how much primer to pick up. We're going to use K36. Also, anything else I should get? Thanks.

Greg
 

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greg, get a lot of extra stir sticks and funnels. Also make sure u have your de-greaser and thinner/cleaner. How about rags? Drain water from air comp? Have fun!
 

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Greg,

Are you going to seal the body prior to the PPG K36? I'd recommend 2 quarts of PPG DPLF 2 part epoxy primer in RED OXIDE to give the whole enchilada two good coats to seal all the fiberglas, fillers, epoxies and all other junk. Then you can lay the K36 on it and expect good results.

As far as K36, sad to say I used almost 2 gallons. You may do better than me but I was anal about block sanding. If your only primer is K36 you want to make sure you don't get too thin in areas or the finish will peel (according to their sheet anyways).

Also get 1 Qt. PPG DX330 wax-remover and cleaner. The reason I like that better than acetone is because it stays there longer an enables you to see any scratches that may need more attention.

Those are my two pesos....

Jose Borja
 

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Jose is right with me. I used almost 3 quarts of DPLF and almost 2 gallons of K38. Prepare to spend around 1K for all painting materials if you stick with PPG. I guess red would cost more though.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #7
I have the DX330, inline filters, etc.

According to PPG, K36 can be used over "properly cleaned and sanded fiberglass". No mention of treating or sealing, my bodyman neighbor didn't say anything about sealing either. I'll find out before the trigger gets pulled though.

This is the scariest part of the build. It's what everyone sees, it's how people judge your car. I can't wait until it is over.

Greg
 

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it aint that cheap . $150-$175 a gallon with activator :eek: ,which do you guys prefer,k36 or k38 ??,i know the 38 is thicker,is it better ?,harder to work with??,thanks...vinny
 

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Greg,

You are a fast builder man.... you must really be hot on the heels to get this one done....

At any rate.... As far as I know and according to their sheets, K36 indeed can be used as a primer by itself but has two disadvantages:

1) It does not have the sealing properties of the DPLF primer/sealer.
2) If you sand it too thin, the paint may lift.

Something to think about, but if I were you I would use 2 qts of the DPLF stuff and forget about it. According to the instruction sheet that I am following, the guy wants you to use DPLF epoxy primer to seal the fiberglass and any other substances that may have been used. That guarantees a clean board for the K36 step.

And yes... I'd say $1000 is about right for all the materials. Have fun. Spraying K36 and Block sanding is a lot of fun. That's when you really get to know the body real well.

Jose Borja.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #10
I have found that doing bodywork/paint is alot like building an engine. There are so many ways to go about it, so many combos that work, and a large aray of results. It all depends on what you're after, show quality, durability, budget, etc. The easiest way to mess something up is to try using methods/parts from several different sources. Like when I started my bodywork, I tried using info from several different people and ended up frustrated and with a mess on my hands. It was then that I decided to find the method that I felt I could do with some sort of comfort level. The bodywork went much better after that. Since I'm not the one spraying the primer and paint, I've decided I'd follow my painter's instructions. He's been spraying paint for 25 years, he knows more than I do.

For those of you that are going to be doing your own bodywork/paint, ask or research how it should be done, then pick ONE method and stick with it. None of the methods you find will be wrong, just different. Just like any proven engine combo will get your car down the road, any bodywork/paint combo will get your car looking good.

Greg
 
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