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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on going with a non-stroked 351w block, crank, rods, and pistons; trick flow heads, and a stack-style EFI system. Can I hope to turn 450HP at least? Or am I looking at 400 most likely? I'd really like to hit magic 500 but I don't think I can do that without tossing out the stacks and calling turbonetics. Geeze, my head would pop trying to put on one of their systems. I'm not planning to ever race. I simply want to be confident in the face of the local z06's. Of course, even if I come up with just 350 HP on a 2800LB car, I shouldn't have any problems, hehehe.
 

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Senior Charter Member
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My 351W from the Engine Factory will generate 400+ as is. If I had changed to different heads instead of the Edelbrock could pick up another 25. Even with the 400 h.p. setup you are 1000lbs lighter than a Z06=no problem.

**2800lbs, think 2200 lbs. curb weight!

JQ
 

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Coupe- You can make some real nice power with a non-stroked 351. I have a .030 over 351 with Edelbrock Vic Jr heads/intake/comp cams 282HR cam/.
I will be running a carb, but this motor made 394rwhp in fuel injected form through a C4 trans.
One guy i met had box stock Trick Flow heads on a .030 351 with an EFI "spyder intake made 380rwhp.
Numbers like these will get you moving in our light little cars!! :D ;)
 

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Remember: The higher the HP, the less streetable the engine becomes. And as HP increases, so does the risk of the engine coming apart.

2FAST
 

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A 351 can make over 700hp if built right. We build them on a regular basis to 450-500hp in street configuration.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Remember: The higher the HP, the less streetable the engine becomes. And as HP increases, so does the risk of the engine coming apart.


Allright, who has hi-jacked 2Fast's computer. I know it couldn't have been him that said that.
 

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2800 lbs? :eek: Are you putting in air conditioning, power windows, cruise control, power locks, dual airbags and 8 cupholders? :D You should tip the scale under 2400lbs easy.

I haven't dyno'd my motor yet. But it's a 351W bored .040 with go fast parts and a 750 carb. I really think I'm in the 400 ballpark.

Steve
 

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As you can see from my sigline, I'm targeting 400 bhp with a .030-over 351W, which I think is very doable. Stock (rebuilt) bottom end, AFR 185's, Weiand Stealth, BG 650 w/ mechanical secondaries and no choke, a 230*/236* - .519/.523 hydraulic roller cam, complete MSD ignition set, Factory Five 4-into-4 headers (which I believe will be an important part of the equation for this particular combo)...pushing a Tremec 3550 and 3.55 rear end, I'm thinking that if I can hit or beat 330 rwhp on a chassis dyno I will have hit 400 bhp.

And this is a fairly conservative motor spec, given some of the other motors I've seen on this forum! Replace the cam, intake, and carb with a logically grouped set of more agressive pieces, and watch those numbers climb. I settled on my combination to make a more streetable combo. Don't think I'll be lacking for torque around town!! :D

AJ
 

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2800 lbs? Are you putting in air conditioning, power windows, cruise control, power locks, dual airbags and 8 cupholders? You should tip the scale under 2400lbs easy.
How about a FAT brother-in-law, who could hardly get the Simpson seat belts around him. :eek: The car leaning on the passenger side, I bet it went over 2800 lbs. Could have used more torque that day. :rolleyes:
 

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Hmmm...This is an interesting question just because I have just finished a stroked/bored 351W.
I believe that horsepower is purchased...how much $$$ do you have?
I'm realistically expecting over 400HP and 425FtLb from my 393; I'm also thinking that I have overdone it for such a light car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wwo 9 replies in an hour. I need to think up catchier titles from now on.

My engine budget is 10k but with the configuration I've got on paper I'm going to make it at the 8200 mark. Which really lets the budget breathe.
The reason I said 2800 is because I'm planning on putting in every creature comfort I can in my coupe. Not to mention a bulky AOD Auto tranny. I'll probably still come in under 2800 though. Don't you think?
Well my first priority is indeed street-ability. I mean the thing will be my daily driver. I'm just going to build the engine with the components I've selected and pray for the best I suppose. Anyone know a good engine-dyno near statesville, NC?? How much does that usually run you anyways?
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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CoupeDreams,

A big, low stressed motor is always much more streetable and reliable than a small highly stressed one. With a budget like yours, you could go to a 408 with a 4.000” stroker crank, use a very mild cam and make more power than you will ever know what to do with. This would be much better than pushing a 351 hard to get the same power and would cost the same or less. Also, with an automatic transmission you want lots of low end. Anything more than a mild cam won't work well with that trans.

Kevin
 

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Here are my motors' specs.
351W bored .040 over
World Products Windsor Jr. heads, 1.94/1.60 oversized valves
9.3/1 compression ratio
Crane Cams Roller cam, 216/224 duration at 0.050", and .520/.542 lift
Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane intake
Holley 750 double pumper carb
Engine balanced, smoothed, chrome/molly racing rings,etc...

The motor is very streetable and also very good on the track. A nice mix. I think you should look for something similar. Not too high strung that driving is difficult day to day, but enough so that it'll make you smile and crap your pants each time you floor it. :D :eek:


Steve
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Whoever is building your 351 (I’m assuming you are not building it yourself) can build a 408. It’s the same block with the same 4.030” bore. The only difference is a 4.000” stroke crank instead of the 3.500” crank in the 351 and different length rods. (You also have to do some minor clearancing of the block). I would suggest looking at an EAGLE crank because they are internally balanced which is better for the engine.

Kevin
 

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Here is a dyno sheet on a 351W, stack fuel injection, mild hydraulic roller cam, Edelbrock Performer heads. The chart below it is the same motor with a carb and performer manifold. The stack added 11 HP and 17lb/ft of torque. 437 HP and 461 Tq out of a 351W. With AFR 185 heads and a CompCams XE274HR you could expect 470 HP/470 tq and 10.5:1 CR.

351W Stack injected



351W 750 carb/Performer intake



[ February 24, 2004, 04:53 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Presley ]
 

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Scalded Cat
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Gordon Levy built mine and it is rated between 450 - 500hp. With no stroking just a well built 351W. He has been great to work with and very helpful in all aspects of my build. Best thing to do though is give him a call he can tell you first hand what he can build to satisfy your application. I haven't had mine dynoed yet and won't till I get it broken in.

I can tell you though that the go carting, even at the low rpm's, is exciting!
:eek: :D :eek: ;)

 

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Wayne,
That's really interesting. The carb'd motor has more torque at lower rpm. It wasn't until the higher revs that the stakced motor took over. Why is that? I'm guessing the mild roller cam you describe is similar to the one that I posted is in my motor. Interesting to know. I guess I should expect about the same numbers from my motor.

Steve
 

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Steve,
I bet the difference in low end torque is due to runner length. The carb manifold would obviously have longer runners than a direct port configuration like the stacks. Sort of like the difference you would see between a single plane and a dual plane carb setup - the dual plane makes the torque down low because of the longer runners.
 

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It's the dual plane manifold that makes more power down low, when compared with a single plane manifold the stacks beat it everywhere. There is a dip in torque at 4200-4400 RPM and at 4800 rpm on the stack that looks like a spot where the fuel is too rich. A little fine tuning on the fuel map and another couple of extra pulls on the dyno would yeild a smoother TQ curve.

Here's the info in chart form.



[ February 24, 2004, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Presley ]
 
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