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Discussion Starter #1
Of course teh POS is leaking so i gotta pull the trans to get at the rear main. Any tips/tricks?

Dave
 

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Just replaced the trans last week. Just get it over with and pull the motor off the mounts and forward in the engine compartment. I did it leaving all wires and fuel, oil,and water lines intack. Had to remove the headers, and looking back now it sure made things easy. DON'T fight the trans without lifting the motor. It's not worth the perspiration when the motor will move.
Just my two cents.
 

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I just removed my (MK II) T5 without removing the motor. It took 2 hours to remove it and disassemble the tranny to find out which gears were trashed. Much of that time (>30 min) was spent trying to get the drive shaft bolts broken loose.

Robert
 

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Not hard at all. Just did this as well (to replace the clutch but did the rear main while I was in there). Just pulled the tranny itself from underneath. No big deal. Did it from underneath by myself just using jack stands. As Robert mentions only about 2 hours to remove.

By the way you may already know this but just in case...use a Teflon rear main seal. They cost about twice as much ($20-$25) but are known to resist leaking much better than standard rubber. Also, be sure to put some RTV around the outer edge (only) before putting the seal in. I did a lot of reading/research on how to do this so it would never leak again.

In case it helps here is what I did to the best of my recollection:

1. Car up on jack stands.
2. Drain tranny (or it will leak out where driveshaft goes in).
3. Remove driveshaft
4. Disconnected clutch cable.
5. Removed shifter boot and shifter arm from cockpit
6. Unbolt tranny from bellhousing and from rear transmission mount
7. Twist tranny sideways and removed shifter completely
8. Slid tranny tail back and up and over frame/tranny mount.
9. dropped nose of tranny and pulled forward to remove (I may have had to put a small jack under bellhousing to raise it a bit...don't recall for certain.)
10. Remove starter and bellhousing bolts and drop bellhousing, clutch components.
11. Remove flywheel.

As for the rear main seal itself the methods you will hear for removal and installation are usually overdone. Just get a screwdriver and pry it off. Just be careful not to mar the crankshaft in any way. With the teflon seal be sure you don't get any oil or lubricant at all where the seal rides on the crankshaft. Clean everything extremely well and install. As mentioned be sure to put some RTV around the outer edge where the seal meets the block (I beleive even the Ford service manuals recommend this). This can mean the difference between leaking or not. The teflon seals include a small tool that makes sliding the seal over the crackshaft much easier. To install the new seal just tap it very lightly around the steel edge. It may take some time but if you are gentle and take your time it will go in this way a little at a time (unless you have a seal installation tool). Be sure you don't get *anything* on the part of the seal (the teflon ring) that touches the crankshaft before or during the installation!

Good luck.
-Matt
 

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Double check that it is not the back of the oilpan, or the Valve cover gaskets.

The tranny will come out easy enough. The key is to twist it.

On the side of the tranny are two small square tabs with round holes in the center.

I found it came out a heck of a lot easier when I cut these tabs off, they don't do anything and serve no purpose other than to increase the difficulty in getting the trans out!
 

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Matt,

Where do you buy the teflon seal? This is the first I've heard of that. What is the brand? Also, I'm curious as to why you don't lubricate the seal - that is standard practice for most seals...

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks guys, its definately not the valve covers, ill check the back of the lower today.

dave
 

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getting the trans out is easy. it was very helpful to have a friend when i put it back in. depressing the clutch was key to getting the input shaft to seat.

i did this from the top as i have no backbone (yet) in my car.

james
 

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I would not recomend depressing the clutch, you will probably put everything out of alignment if you do.
 

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Brian, I beleive there are a couple of different manufacturers of the teflon rear main seals. I used a Felpro product on recommendation. I went to an Autozone and asked them to do a lookup by part number for a Felpro BS40644. They were obvioiusly not used to looking parts up this way but finally figured it out after a few tries. They didn't have any in stock but had one brought in from another store. I think Napa carries a teflon seal as well but under a different brand name. Not sure whether they are the same or not. I was going on a recommendation so wanted to stick with the felpro part number but they may all be the same. Here is a link to one of many discussions on this very subject...on stangnet (scroll down several replies):
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=564632&highlight=teflon+rear+main+seal

and also over on corral.net:
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=608179&highlight=teflon+rear+main+seal

You can also go to the Felpro site. If you go to their website here (owned by Federal Mogul): http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/channel/index/0,2186,2442_7106,00.html and just select "Vehicle Application Catelog" and enter in 1989 Ford Mustang 5.0 and then select the "Engine" category and then "Individual Gaskets and Seals" you will see both the regular and teflon seals. It gets confusing though cause the part number they show doesn't match the one I used...

The important thing is the Teflon part not necessarily that it be a Felpro part. And yes you do not want to put oil on the teflon part of the seal. If you do some research/reading you'll read the same thing. They are very different than the rubber. Very hard material that feels and looks like the coating on the bottom of a teflon plan.

[ October 17, 2005, 05:20 PM: Message edited by: Matt Kennedy ]
 

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I have had the trans out of mine took it out thru the top of trans tunnel,took off carpet from tunnel,drilled out rivets on top of tunnel and removed trans took about 1/2 hour
 

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I've had my T5 out once and it wasn't something I'd want to do every weekend. Marky's right about cutting off those mounting tabs that serve no purpose on the FFR set-up. Makes it much easier. Are you sure that the tranny has to come all the way out to get at the rear oil seal? Perhaps you can just flip it sideways and slide it back far enough. Taking it all the way out means a wrestling match with that danged tranny mount.
 

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Thanks for the links and info, Matt! I'll check them out, since this is on my "to do list" for this winter to!

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #14
im thinking i can just get the BH to clear the input and drop it down. If i can, i dont have to remove the trans. I do have a removable trans tunnel cover on top though.

Dave
 

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Dave,
Once the bellhousing is out the tranny will fall out on it's own if you don't brace it in some way. Go ahead and take it out so it doesn't fall. That give you a little more space to work with as well.
Robert
 
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