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I am considering doing just that, and I wonder is that is a wise decision. This applies to the front and rear "elephant ears." Maybe it's not so important in the rear wheel wells, but having the front panels removable means easier/alternate access to the exhaust and engine bay.

To me, having the panels removable means I don't use sealant between the pop rivet contact areas and the F-panel/chassis, and that the perimeter gasketing isn't caulked in place with sealant. To remove any of these, I would still need to drill out a bunch of rivets: no problem. I would also plan to use a fabric tape between the front liner and the F-panel along the contact surface. Any thoughts & experience on this matter are most welcome.
 

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yeah, some people have done it with rivnuts so that they can be easily removed.

as for the Fpanels, every time you drill out a rivet the tip of it stays inside the 3/4" tube.


SERGIO
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Ongoing Projects:
"SuperCobra" - 1st of its kind
"Double Displacement" - '03 GT into '87 Stang

Past Projects:
"Cobra4Me" - 5.0 FFR MKI - Sold
"3 Novas" - 2 BBC Novas, 1 SBC

 

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I used large sheet metal screws the ones with a hex head to connect all of the elephant ears. Below is a picture of the ones I made for the front of the rear wheel wells.

 

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I know this is a Coupe and not a Roadster, but you can use the same idea. The picture on top is not the best but I used aluminum tabs with rivet nut threaded insets. I used a product called Kitty Hair (long strand fiber glass repair in a can).
1)You mark where you want you tabs and bond them in palce.

2) Place aluminum panel agianst tabs and drill 1/8" hole thru both.

3) Drill and insert rivet nuts (zink coated steel) into tabs.

4) Bolt into place with stainless button head allen screws.

All screws and rivet nuts can be purchased from Mc Master Carr.




 

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I kept it simple. (3)each side, 1/4 x 1/2 in.long allen head bolts, lock washers and standard nuts. I also use a brace from the 3/4 tube to the back of the splash panel to hold it in place. Use allen head cap screws because they won't cam out like Philip's do. Removable panels makes sense. If you have power brakes this gives you easy access to the fluid reservoir. No need for a remote. easy access to headers, plugs,and side pipes.

geno
 

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How about a Dzus fastener?
 

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Elephant ears I used tiny allen head bolts and acorn nuts. Rears are in with screws. I've already had the rears in and out a number of times working with the taillights and changing the rear bumper. Left the spacing the same as the rest of the rivets.
 

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Used phillip head screws with build in washers here.
Same stainless screws used to hold interier trim in early GM cars. Being able to remove the panels can help a lot if ever needing to change a master cylinder up front or fuel fill hose in rear.
 
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