[GATOR427SC]

Same problem most guys are having with hot start. Fine initially but then after ~10 minutes she's hard to start back up. I've checked the grounds and have a new starter solenoid. The starter is stock and have tried a heat blanket with no luck.

What starter options are out there? Someone mentioned a rebuilt heavy duty or high torque starter. Any ideas?? Mr. Alternator sells a ~$90 starter and I've seen other "mini-starters" for ~$150. Suggestions?

Also,
Are the mini high torque starters a direct bolt-in? Are there any other things I would need to get with one of these?

BTW, I'm running a basically stock 1991 5.0 motor with headers.

Chris

[ October 06, 2002, 09:32 PM: Message edited by: GATOR427SC ]

 

[Gary Evans]

I had the same problem and put a bigger battery in the back. And its all good now, I went with a group 34 instead of the 58 or something like that, it took some modifying but it fit. the new battery puts out 1000cca vs the 650 or so the stock one put out.

 

[wnstwolf]

I may be way off the mark but one thing that caused a similar problem on my big block was timing.. Advancing the timing too much will cause a hot start problem..

just 2 cents...

 

[GATOR427SC]

Timing is ~10 degrees, stock setting.

 

[mikiec]

Are the cables getting hot? If so what size cable are you using? With the Battery located in the rear you might consider size 0 cables.

Make sure you have a good ground. Use the braided wire cable for the ground to the starter.

Have you tried adding a heat shield to the battery?

Just some things to think about before you spend the money for a Hi-Torque starter.

Mike

 

[Bob Cowan]

It's usually the simple things that create these little problems. Anything that limits the flow of electrons through the circuit will limit the effectiveness of the starter motor.

So check all the simple stuff before you spend a dime. Statrt at the negative battery terminal, and work your way back to the positive terminal.

In addition to the above suggestions, Check all the connections to make sure they are tight and clean. A bad ground is certainly the most common. Also, be sure and do a load test on the battery. Even some new batteries can be underperformers.

 

[spaz]

My hot start problem was a weak ground to the engine.I now have two and no problems at all .Sympoms of mine were an OK crank over when cold and when hot was very weak cranking of the starter and sometimes no crank at all .Not sure if you have same problem but if you do it is a resistance problem somewhere in the start curcuit.Hope it helps....and a free fix

 

[Steve Dunkel]

Had the same problem. Checked the ground and put a larger battery in, still didn't help. Switched to a powermaster, pwm-9162, haven't had a problem since! It is a direct bolt on and it comes with it's own wiring harness, wired a little different than the stock harness. Summit has them for $169.95.

 

[DAVE VAN]

I went with the "Mr. Alternator" Mini starter and a new battery. Problem solved. I am running 10:1 compression w/12deg timing.

 

[GATOR427SC]

Dave,
Is this the $125 unit from Mr. Alternator? Was it a direct replacement? Extra/different wiring than stock?

Chris

 

[PWildcat]

Just curious, is it only GM's that had problems with vapor lock, or do Fords too?

Brent

 

[teamfour]

Chris, I would check the grounds/cables before sinking money on a new starter. My car is using the stock starter, Die Hard battery for a Mustang, and the FFR supplied cables. I can start the car fine after running hard for 3 hours. I made sure the grounds are top notch.

 

[GATOR427SC]

Ok time to show my ignorance......

The grounds I checked were the battery to cut-off switch, cut-off switch to frame, braided ground from heads (stock) to frame, main wire from starter solenoid to starter and made sure that the starter to motor contact area was clean.

What else is there to check? Would a heavier gage wire from the starter solenoid to the starter help?

Mike,
Are you saying to run an addition braided ground strap from the starter housing to the frame?

Spaz,
Where did you run the other wire from/to? What gage wire should be used?

Oh I just love electricals

Chris

[ October 02, 2002, 01:30 PM: Message edited by: GATOR427SC ]

 

[d isham]

You know I have the same stinkin problem and it's becoming a pain in the neck. I've gone over my grounds twice and even added another ground from starter to frame. Added heat blanket around starter. Still having problems every time she comes up to temp. I have a 1990 Autozone rebuilt special that is probably my problem. Battery is an Optima. I've heard that a 1993 starter is beeter than what I currently have and an OEM replacement works best. I have a mini torque starter that I picked up cheap that I'm thinking of putting on but I hesitate cause I believe it would require some wiring modifications.

Doug

 

[Matt Kennedy]

Had the same problem in my FFR with my rebuilt '89 5.0. Car would start but after warmed up if shut off just would not crank over. Checked all grounds, etc. to no avail. Found out that Ford shipped the 5.0 with 2 different starters. Some were a mini-style high tourque and some were not. I beleive the later 5.0 had the high-tourques. I changed out my starter to new stock '93 Ford mini-style high tourque design. Bolts right up. Night and day difference. No special cabling - all 6ga. Battery still in rear. Never again had another problem. Starts every time.

-Matt

[ October 02, 2002, 02:05 PM: Message edited by: Matt Kennedy ]

 

[GATOR427SC]

Matt,
I looked at the 93 starter and it differs from mine in that it has another connection (small blade connector). Does this get wired to the middle single wire on the starter solenoid? In other words....do I splice another wire into this middle wire and wire one to the middle post on the solenoid and the other to this small blade terminal on the starter?

I've double checked all the grounds and even added another ground strap from the motor to the frame with no luck.

Chris

 

[DAVE VAN]

Chris, Thats the correct mini starter from Mr. Alternator. It is a direct fit except you have to run one extra wire back to the existing solenoid. He might have a wiring kit that comes with it. I have a diagram I will e-mail you if you need it.

 

[Metal-Morphous]

It sounds like a heat soak problem, pontiacs were always having this problem, the fix was to relocate the soleniod to a location away from the heat of the headers. Cobras with FEs placed it on the firewall.

 

[GATOR427SC]

[ October 06, 2002, 09:38 PM: Message edited by: GATOR427SC ]

 

[GATOR427SC]

Finally fixed the hot start problem. After checking and double checking everything I finally went and bought the 1993 stock mini starter (thanks Matt) and the problem went away. Now she starts everytime. Had her out today for 2 hours in 90 degree weather and she started up everytime without even a hiccup.

thanks guys for the help
Chris