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Discussion Starter #1
Or I should say the "no hot start blues". Stock 302, E-cam, Holley Street Avenger carb, RPM intake, Crane Hi-fire, Mallory coil, trunk mounted Diehard, thick welding cable from bat + to disconnect switch, to factory type starter relay, to Advance Auto's finest replacement/rebuilt starter. Big ground straps front and rear. Timing @12 deg. Spins like theres no spark plugs in when cold but when hot you would think I was trying to start a 747.

Should I just suck it up and get a new hi-torque mini starter? Where's the best deal? Is there a good one that won't require a re-wire of the starting circuts? All comments and suggestions welcome!
 

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If your grounds are good,and your battery is good,and you dont want to relocate your battery in the front.Some peole have had luck wrapping the starter with insulation.Try this first,but I think you probably are looking at a new starter.I wouldnt bother with a mini starter...I'd get a starter for a 93'-95 5,0 mustang.These are the permanent magnent gear reduction type starters.They are lighter than pre 93' starters and require less power.You dont need to change any of your present wiring,but on the starter you will need to add a jumper.


PS. Welding cable of a given thickness will have more resistance then the same gauge battery cable due the small strands in welding cable.Too bad I found this out after I used it to wire mine. :rolleyes:

[ December 27, 2002, 11:33 PM: Message edited by: Smitty ]
 

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Senior Charter Member
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703 Posts
I had the same problem with a BB Chevy and solved it by changing to the small high torque starter. I had the old starter wrapped with insulation to keep the exhaust heat away but found out later that this can hold the heat in once the starter is HOT. My battery is almost next to my starter so this was never the problem. Replace that stock starter.
Dan
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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607 Posts
Big fat welding cable (#o or #oo)for both hot and ground. The mini starter has always worked great for me in drag and street motors.
 
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