[Fordfan96]

Hey all. Blueprint 306 with a Holley Street Warrior. When I first started it it was running extremely rich. I checked the float levels, both were high so I lowered them accordingly. That helped somewhat, still a bit rich and I need to clean the plugs. Next up I couldn’t get the idle down. Checked for vacuum leaks and that the secondaries are closed. Choke appears correct. Checked mixture screws. Drivers side was out 1 and 3/4, passenger out 1/4. I’m not a carb guru, but are t they supposed to be even? Going to clean the plugs, check the timing, and dig out the vacuum gauge. Any other suggestions? Thx.

 

[CraigS]

In theory they should be close to the same. Certainly closer than yours are, but I'd be fine w/ a 1/2 turn variation. I like to adjust idle mix using the best lean idle method. As you close the screw down 1/2 turn at a time, suddenly the idle will drop off. Open it back up that 1/2 turn and try a smaller change, 1/4 to 1/8 turn. The idea is that when it goes lean it is a very obvious change. OTOH, once at lean best idle, you could open it up 1 turn, maybe even 1.5 turns before you feel/hear a change and it won't be as dramatic.

 

[Jim1855]

Noticed you'd started another post with the thought that you'd change carbs. Wouldn't be my plan nor suggestion. Blueprint selected the carb with the thought that it would be a good fit for your motor. Why not call them and ask for help.

So here's something to consider, happened to me could easily happen to you. Check the metering passages it's real possible that dirt, small fragments of gas line or some other crud got into the air bleed passages, these are the ones that meter air and blockage will cause a rich condition and make metering a real bugger. I was able to find the chunk-o-junk that was causing my rich condition, maybe you can too. A few tools, bright light, compressed air and a can of carb cleaner and you might be in business.

Note: this could happen to any carb or efi system. Good filtering is important and having a filter close to the induction system is a good plan as well.

Jim

 

[Fordfan96]

Noticed you'd started another post with the thought that you'd change carbs. Wouldn't be my plan nor suggestion. Blueprint selected the carb with the thought that it would be a good fit for your motor. Why not call them and ask for help.

So here's something to consider, happened to me could easily happen to you. Check the metering passages it's real possible that dirt, small fragments of gas line or some other crud got into the air bleed passages, these are the ones that meter air and blockage will cause a rich condition and make metering a real bugger. I was able to find the chunk-o-junk that was causing my rich condition, maybe you can too. A few tools, bright light, compressed air and a can of carb cleaner and you might be in business.

Note: this could happen to any carb or efi system. Good filtering is important and having a filter close to the induction system is a good plan as well.

Jim

Thanks Jim. I did call BP today. Didn’t get much other than try it without the vacuum advance and may be an issue with jet size as I’m at sea level and they are at 2000 feet. Guess I’ll pull the metering block and check that. I tried to keep everything clean, but you never know. Really don’t want to get too far into the carb, but something isn’t right with it.

 

[Jim1855]

If the carb was tuned at 2,000 feet then it would be lean at sea level. In the big scheme of things a 2,000 foot change isn't really a big deal. I used to drive from Michigan to Colorado for a summer cruise. I didn't change anything in Denver but once going into the mountains I did, we were driving between 6,000 and 14,000 feet. Also made sure I switched back to the "normal" main jets prior to heading home so it didn't lean out.

Jim