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About when do you make the switch to the 5w-30?

Well 5 yrs is certainly a successful test I'd say. I have always had what I think is too low pressure so I used to run thicker oil. Then at one fall autocross, I didn't get the engine warm enough (coolant fine but oil just 120) and 1/2 way through the first run it shut off. I was lucky it just sheared the roll pin that located the gear on the dist shaft. An easy fix but I stopped using the 15-50 oil and went to 10-40 summer and 5-30 in the winter.
 

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I use blueprinted pumps from Precision Oil Pumps They have both the HV and the standard volume, but I use the standard. These pumps have an adjustable bypass spring so you can tailor your oil pressure. If you care about your engine you will use the best components you can.
 

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I use blueprinted pumps from Precision Oil Pumps They have both the HV and the standard volume, but I use the standard. These pumps have an adjustable bypass spring so you can tailor your oil pressure. If you care about your engine you will use the best components you can.
I'm in the process of building a 302 and I'm using a Precision Oil Pumps blueprinted standard pump as well. I figure if there's one place to not cheap out on in the build it's the oil pump.
 

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Keep oil temp between 180 and 230, 220 is better. Old school says oil pressure should be rpm/100+10 (30w oil). If you don't have 80 psi at 7000 rpm, change spring(HP) and go to HV pump. If it is a real race engine, it has extra clearance and needs a cooler and HV pump. You can juggle viscosity to add pressure. Current oils are better and don't require high pressure or high volume or large clearances. I had a 408 w/ tight clearances, 7 qt T-pan, 5w30 semi-synthetic oil, and std pump. Beat it like a rented mule. Oil temp @ 220-240 on a hot day, water @ 210-230. Added ceramic coatings to combustion chambers and valves, and anti-friction coatings to oil pump, crank, and rods. After coatings, water temp 200-205 with a 195 thermostat, and oil temp 180-190 max. It was almost hard to get the oil temp to 180. I was considering an oil/water cooler for the oil to warm it up faster. Sold the car.
 

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There is no blanket statement for using or not using high volume pump, depends on what you are using the engine for and how the engine was built.

I have always used HV oil pumps, never an issue as my engines are built for for high volume and my usgae is pure racing.
 
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Discussion Starter #27
right, wrong, or indifferent, I decided to swap out the oil pump. I'm not needing any application for a high volume pump and would rather deal with it now vs later once I've filled er up w/ dino juice. I had to remove my oil filter and starter/solenoid, then removed the pan bolts.
Any recs on how to best remove/replace the rear 1/2" bolts by the rear main seal?
this area was very hard to get to and i ended up using a "screwdriver" method and a combination wrench with a screwdriver providing torque on the closed end of the wrench. it's too narrow in there to get a combo wrench in the normal orientation, perpendicular to the bolt head, and too narrow to get a regular socket w/ extension in there. I am going to have a hard time replacing those bolts down the road.
got the pump out and it is indeed a HV pump. I'll call forte on Mon to replace it.
 

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Depending on the shape of your backing plate, it may be necessary to loosen the bell housing bolts to gain about 1/4 inch of space to remove the oil pan. I had to do that because I have a girdle on the mains and the oil pan couldn't slide down between it and the backing plate.

HTH

Norm
 

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I have used Melling HV Oil Pumps on a number of Ford engine builds, FE, 385, Windsors and one Cleveland and never had an oil pump problem. If you could suck an 8 Qt oil pan dry there would be oil squirting out of the engine somewhere, I think it would be impossible. When they call a pump High Volume, it is not a lot more than a standard pump. I feel an HV pump adds a little safety factor to the oiling system and would not build an engine without one.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have used Melling HV Oil Pumps on a number of Ford engine builds, FE, 385, Windsors and one Cleveland and never had an oil pump problem. If you could suck an 8 Qt oil pan dry there would be oil squirting out of the engine somewhere, I think it would be impossible. When they call a pump High Volume, it is not a lot more than a standard pump. I feel an HV pump adds a little safety factor to the oiling system and would not build an engine without one.
well, moot point at this time. I wasn't really worried about sucking an 8qt pan dry, but rather having premature wear on the dizzy/cam gears and pump shaft fatigue. I'm not running anything (oil cooler, large clearances, etc) that would really require a HV pump and would rather not rebuild an engine down the road. I probably would have been fine running the HV, but didn't want a major facepalm situation down the road. I've had enough minor ones thus far.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Depending on the shape of your backing plate, it may be necessary to loosen the bell housing bolts to gain about 1/4 inch of space to remove the oil pan. I had to do that because I have a girdle on the mains and the oil pan couldn't slide down between it and the backing plate.

HTH

Norm
to gain the space, do you need to unmount your transmission and remove the driveshaft to move the transmission rearward?
 

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to gain the space, do you need to unmount your transmission and remove the driveshaft to move the transmission rearward?
No, I had enough flexibility in the motor and transmission mounts that I was able to use a couple of small pry bars to move the backing plate away from the block enough to get the pan out.
 

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Wow. I had a canton pan that was snug like that. It also leaked like hell. Dropped that turd and grabbed a moroso pan that had billet ends. No leaks and snug as a bug. The rear bolts still hard to reach. I used socket cap screws and all is well.
 

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I have a 7 Qt. Moroso Oil Pan and used an ARP Oil Pan Bolt Set. The hex heads on the larger bolts are 7/16 and I used a 1/4 drive socket and extension to install the rear bolts.
 
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