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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the car torn apart for major upgrades and I was wondering about how to upgrade the headlights. A few folks I know have used the cheap HID kits, but none are FFR owners. I did talk to the guys at FFR to see what stock bulb size is to see if there is an appropriate kit, haven't found one yet. Does anyone have any experience and would make a recommendation - I don't want to add driving lights. FYI, I am also replacing all the wiring so the time to make changes is now. Any help would be appreciated.

tim
 

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FFR 7469
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ouch

$500 a pair:w00t:

They look like a great product but way expensive.

QUOTE=PhoneGuy;2732311]This is got to be one of the priciest options out there but I am considering the truck light 7 LED Head Light. I have one on my bike and the difference is truly night and day.

Truck Lite 27270C 7 LED Headlight Headlamp Phase 7 Harley Jeep PAR56 | eBay

I am NOT connected in anyway to the seller, just offering a link for a price guide.[/QUOTE]
 

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Mike Fortes H4 headlights housing that go right where your sealed beams fit along with a plasma garage.com H4 HID conversion kit. Good ballasts and bulbs with weatherpack connections. Check my pics in my album and you can see what they look like.
 

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Tim,
I got a great pair of headlamps from summit racing.they were in the truck section. Believe they were Hella.I'd check, but I'm. Out of town.
 

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Unless you changed them you should have Wipac E code headlamps with 60/55W H4 bulbs.
Here's the writeup I did when I changed mine a few weeks ago. I would suggest you go to the Daniel Stern Lighting website and read everything there before spending any money. Just throwing hotter bulbs at your headlamps may not give you the results you're looking for unless you have relays and your wiring can carry the load (14GA minimum). Be aware that as bulb wattage goes up service life goes down so there is something to be said for not buying the highest output bulb you can find. Tinted bulbs are garbage and actually reduce output. I've been driving on my 70/65W bulbs for a few weeks now and I'm very happy with them. HTH.
Frank
 

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Not sure how the HIDs would work in a single housing system. They are only for low beams and won't work for high beams. Speedway does have an HID headlight for $320 ea but I still don't know how the high beam works. They have to warm up to come on and you will not have flash to pass. Maybe there's some new tech where it turns on instantly.

Using a H4 housing is the best bet and they are available everywhere. Speedway has a lot of choices.http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-7-Inch-Tri-Bar-Headlights,4407.html
 

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I would be looking at doing a HID projector retro-fit. I have done two so far (none on a cobra) and it is not rocket science. I did the HID kit before doing the projector thing and took them out due to the crazy glare I was subjecting other drivers to. Lots of light doesn't have to mean lots of glare.

Check out
The Retrofit Source online: headlight upgrades for all applications

I would try the Morimoto Mini D2S if space was an issue. If not, go straight to the FXR projos and never look back.
 

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FFR 7469
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$500 a pair:w00t:

They look like a great product but way expensive.
Yes, I know they are not cheap but just an option. I haven't done any night driving in my roadster yet, (not legal yet) but if the lighting it is anything like I think it is going to be, these LED's are going to be my first choice (provided I am still gainfully employed). They were developed for military use and have since been used for several other applications as a direct replacement of 7" bulb's.
Cheers, Bob
 

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(dons accountants eyeshade and snaps garter on sleeve) In terms of cost/benefits, HID isn't all that much. The point was to conform to DOT maximum watt ratings while still putting out more light. So, they ramped up the voltage to produce a higher Kelvin rated color beam. While they cost a lot more, they aren't necessarily "better."

I upgraded to E-codes years ago, with a relay harness, and those two elements added most of what I enjoy in lighting with my daily driver. I tried Hella bulbs, and switched to Wagner 80/100's simply because they were cheaper, available, and lasted longer.

I pay about $12 for replacement. I sell HID replacements for $85 UP.

Upgrading the lighting system - affordably - the best bang for the buck is E-code lenses and the relay harness. It also saves all the heat and current drain running from the battery to dash switch and back again, one reason why the late models from about 2000 up do it now. Why they waited all these decades to do the right thing is just another issue about how factory wiring is done at their level - get by as cheap as possible.

Going HID, you have to do the same thing. Separate the elements of the system, and upping your bulb replacement cost and being forced to use high voltage transformers means there are more issues than stock. Best thing to do is avoid introducing more problems, just fix the ones that exist.
 

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I installed relays and 12 gauge wire to the headlights, Cibie European beam pattern H4 headlights, and am currently running about 80 watt bulbs. The European beam pattern gives a nice cutoff. The road is very well illuminated without putting light higher than a corvette rear bumper. Wouldn't change a thing.
 

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When I built my car I did like Frank Messina suggested and went to the Daniel Stern Lighting website and got quite the education. I then installed relays up front and close to the headlights. I ran an 8 gauge wire from the charge terminal on the alternator through a 110 amp circuit breaker and then to a nifty Cooper Bussmann weather proof distribution module “Series 15300 RTMR” that has 5 fused circuits with relays in it and used 12 awg. wire from the RTMR to the lights. My kit came with just plain old Wagner halogen sealed beams. I will say that they are plenty bright but there is no cutoff…they really light up street signs. I do plan on going to some kind of an E code bulb.

I do have a Flash-to-Pass circuit that is nice.

Jack
 

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About a year ago I bought a 8000K BI-XENON HID KIT for about $100.00 on ebay. I kind of thought maybe it might work so took a chance on it. I had to do something as the lights at night were like candles!!!
It came with all the wiring, relays, ballast, bulbs, and a junk, my opinion, headlight.
The bulbs fit in a H4 headlight housing so I found a good glass, metal framed one to use instead of the housing that came with the kit. (Get Forte housing!!)
The wiring, relay, light bulbs, and ballast have worked flawlessly for the past year. And I do a LOT of night driving! Rain, cold, not been a problem for them! I mounted the ballasts on the F panel inside the wheel well! And water still no problems! Turn them on and the lights slowly come up to full bright in about 3 seconds.
I can really see down the road! WAY down the road! Most of the time I can drive with low beams as high beams are now left for out on the interstate highways.
Just in case I bought a spare ballast and bulbs which are still wrapped up in the package they came in.
 

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Brings up a good point - with 80/100 watt bulbs, the E-codes rarely get me any flashing to dip my lights. On low, nobody seems to complain, and with the increasing number of HID cars out there, I don't see me being the offender.

On high, it's a different game, I dim them early to prevent being offensive. And if someone behind me won't dim their's, the few times I have been able to get behind them, their wife gives them an earful. It's funny to watch as it's all lit up and you can read her lips.

The issue really is, the old incandescents and halogens were ok in the day, as WE get older, not so much. Night vision in males deteriorates as you get older, you just need more light to get more reflected lumens back onto what's left of our worn out retinas.

At the very least, use lenses that control where it goes so that you do get the light you need without being That #$%& in the other lane. It's really not so much about the amount of wattage as it is where you put it. Frankly, DOT lenses are about the worst on the face of the earth, as usual.

Like they used to say on the Texas road signs, Drive Friendly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks to everyone that has responded to the post, lots of things to consider that I didn't think thru when I posted. The one comment that rang true was the fact as I get older I need better light to drive at night without pissing off oncoming drivers.

tim
 
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