[FFR3247]

I am installing the passanger seat and I trimmed the fiberglass per the instructions, but the seat is not rubbing the fiberglass seat base. It is rubbing the foam padded seat cushion. Do you have to cut the plywood underneath? It seems that with the platforms under the seat it would clear the e brake. I am assuming the seat is over the top of the handle and not beside it. These are the classic seats. Hope this makes sense.

 

[Michael Everson]

I just installed these in a customers car. here is what i did. I did not caut the seats at all.
I riveted the brackets to the floor with the suplied holes and then bought some sheetmetal nuts (you know the ones that all the auto manufacturers use to hold the fenders and bumpers on) I redrilled the back two holes a little closer to the front then slipped those nuts over the holes. I then transfered the holes through the fiberglass seat bottom. Drilled the 4 holes in the glass and then bolted the seat down. It clears the e-brake no problem. This whole operation took less than 1/2 per seat. Those 16 rivets are plenty enough to hold the base down. Also the seats can now be removed in a matter of a couple of minutes. I didnt see the need to go thru all the cutting and drilling in the instructions. Remember, the seat belt is holding you in the car not the seat.

 

[FFR3247]

I am a little confused. IS the seat sitting directly on top of the platform? If I put my set directly on top the padded cushion is directly on top of the ratcheting mech. Are you saying that the one you installed cleared the handle without trimming at all. I dont see it. I must be doing something wrong. I can't move the seat back anymore to get away from the handle. The handle is also cut per the FFR manual to clear the seat.
Thanks for any help.

 

[Michael Everson]

Yes. i did absolutely no cutting to the seat. i did trim the e-brake per FFR specs. Nothing touches the e-brake handle. I will post pics for you this afternoon.
Mike

 

[airman]

I just installed both seats .I did the passenger first by the instructions supplied with them, took four hours. I did notch the plywood on the front corner. Drivers seat I spent two hrs. threw the instructions away, and it took one hr. Seats are great when you get done. Mike I like your idea of fasening the seats, will take mine out and try it.
Airman

 

[Michael Everson]

As you can see from this picture the e-brake is real close but does not touch the seat. it moves up and down with no problems.

These seat mounts are a real nice peice. I need to see if i can adapt them to the high back seats.

 

[wnstwolf]

Did mine this weekend as well..

Only add to those in the future would be to add a small access hole through floor inboard of the 4" tube on the passanger side. You can get a plug for the hole after everything is done. I used a plug from mustang project. The inboard front bolt ois near impossible to tighten but with the access hole it is more like a real car seat and allows you to tighten it up from below and then plug the hole..

another little mod I did that made the drivers side go in no time flat was to nut use the 5/16 bolts but rather get a 2" piece of thrreaded rod and screw it into the "T-Nuts". hit it with a little 60 second epoxy and then install.. Adding nuts to the end of the studs is a lot ewasier than trying to thread the supplied nuts..

Seat platforms and added track adjustment on drivers side was a great add to my build. Felt real nice on the 50 mile drive this weekend.. Only drawback was the install but this was more time than effort (well worth it) and the platform raises you up about two inches.. My hat did not like this at all!

 

[Mark Reynolds]

You what? You, You, you threw out the instructions?

Well I've always said that installing the seats was the hardest part of building an FFR roadster!

Billy, yes the passenger seat will be projecting out over the back parking brake handle some. If your cable is tight and the handle does not come up too far the handle may never contact the seat. We found we needed to trim the shell (fiberglass) and not the base (plywood) for when the handle is up at about 70 degrees. We probably had our seat facing off to the right and yours is probably facing more straight ahead. Rotating a few degrees clockwise may give you the needed clearance.

About Mike's idea using the sheetmetal nuts and bolting the passenger seat shell in from above, it sure simplifies the installation, however I felt it was important to attach the seat bottom pad to the shell, and once that is done there is no access for bolts from above. (I know, access from below not much better, but possible)

Joe implemented some nice ideas to facilitate installation (access hole and threaded rod)

Great ideas guys.

Remember our phone number is on the instruction if you'd like to blow off some steam during installation!

Mark Reynolds

 

[wnstwolf]

Your a good man Mark.. Thanks for getting me back on track Saturday.. I am not sure I would throw out the directions quite yet...

The drivers side is by far easier than the passenger!

regards

jd