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Does anyone know if using the heater (engine collant) shut off valve will interfer with the Engine coolant Temp sensor? I dont know if mustangs use that type of shut off.
It seems to me that shutting off the engine coolant to the heater will also stop engine coolant flow pass the ECTS.

Maybe I should stop thinking and have a beer....
 

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No it doesn't effect the engine coolant temp sensor. The Mustang uses a vacuum operated shut off valve.
 

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It depends on the position of the sensor in the coolant path. To work correctly it must have fluid flow past it for an accurate reading. EFI cars have this issue for the computer
Coolant temp. sensor that is in the heater tubing.
HTH
Tim
 

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REcommend you don't use a heater core shutoff, unless the air supply through the heater comes from outside the cockpit and isn't blocked when the heater controls are off. Letting the coolant circulate through the heater core all the time keeps the core from rotting out, a common problem with Mustangs. If you shutoff the coolant flow during the summer, the core will eventually rust out.

Bill
 

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It depends on the position of the sensor in the coolant path. To work correctly it must have fluid flow past it for an accurate reading. EFI cars have this issue for the computer
Coolant temp. sensor that is in the heater tubing.
HTH
Tim
Bigtim01,
You say the sensor needs fluid flow past it for an accurate reading.
But Wade says coolant aways flows by the ECT in the heat tube assembly.
So why wouldn't you get an accurate reading?
 

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Letting the coolant circulate through the heater core all the time keeps the core from rotting out, a common problem with Mustangs. If you shutoff the coolant flow during the summer, the core will eventually rust out. Bill
Never heard of that happening before? Most coolants will prevent rust/corrosive issues, as long as it's replaced every few years. When you say eventually, do you mean like in 20 years?
I expect that there would be the odd occasion that a night/ early am cruise, may have one using their heater, even during the summer, so there would still be a few chances for the coolant to change out.

The newer style Vintage heater FFR sells, won't really allow you to block off the air flowing past the core, (without building a plenum box for it that you can then control air flow). Most fellows do use the core shut-off valve to prevent added heat in the cockpit, during hotter weather. Many OEM heaters are equipped with a shut off valve.
 

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What I mean is, some people me included do not want hot water inside the cockpit. So in the warmer weather I stop the flow of hot coolant to the heater core. On an EFI engine using the stock heater tubes this stops the flow of coolant past the temp sensor for the computer. I have installed a heater control valve from a ranger Pickup. This valve when turned off returns the coolant instead of passing it thru the heater core. I converted the valve from vacumm to cable control.
HTH
Tim
 

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I have installed a heater control valve from a ranger Pickup. This valve when turned off returns the coolant instead of passing it thru the heater core. I converted the valve from vacuum to cable control.
HTH
Tim
Tim,

Do you have or could you provide any details on how you made this modification to the ranger heater bypass valve?

I tried to make my own set-up with brass fitting but it doesn't flow real well. The Ranger valve is ideal if you can work up the bypass valve with the cable operated switch!

Scott
 

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Snake Farmer
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I have installed a heater control valve from a ranger Pickup. This valve when turned off returns the coolant instead of passing it thru the heater core. I converted the valve from vacumm to cable control.Tim
Tim, That seems like a great solution! How did you set up the manual cable control for this ranger bypass valve? Did you remove the vacuum diaphram, and hook it directly up to the valve contol rod itself somehow? Curious as to how you connected the cable to that rod..bend a loop in it or??

Did you use an aftermarket choke cable for this, and simply mount it your dash?

Appreciate any further info you could lend on this..:)
 

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The control valve is a "Ready-Aire #5954" (4-seasons 74809).
I removed the vacumm dash pot and mounted a piece of sheet metal to the valve using the two dash pot mounting screws. I then mounted a long machine screw thru the sheetmetal to secure the control cable.
The cable is a Motormite standard utility push-pull control cable PN 55196.
I cannot post pictures here but I will be glad to E-mail you one of the completed valve.
PM me with your E-mail address.
Tim
 

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I used Bigtim's idea and modified a vacuum-operated valve to work with the cable:
Buy Factory Air Valve 74809 at Advance Auto Parts

I already had the FF/Vintage Air cable control on the car so I made a bracket to attach to the valve.



Valve open - to flow water to the heater core:


Valved closed - to bypass the heater core:


David
 

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In my car, I aranged two vacume valves and an electricially operated vacume valve to provide a bypass around the core when flow to the core is stopped.

I did this because my oil to water heat exchanger is in that line also. I believe that the electric to vacume device was from vintage air.
 

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Pics from Tim (Bigtime01)

He emailed them to me today, and asked me to post.

Thanks Tim - good, clear pics. On my to do list.
 

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