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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed my headlights and front turn signals yesterday! Yahoo!:w00t:
I have a base kit and didn't order the cut-outs, I don't have a concern cutting them, just double check twice before cutting.
The install went pretty well, but I have a tip and a couple questions about tabs / clips.
My tips for cutting the headlight hole:
I printed off the headlight template from the e-version of the build manual and I think it downsized the template. I carefully leveled, measured, and cut-out the headlight bucket hole, but had to grind out a significant amount of material to get the plastic buckets in. I used a 1 1/2' drum sander to clean up the hole I cut with the jig-saw and round it out to the circular shape, then used a flap-sander in a right angle drill to open the hole up and used my calipers to ensure the hole was perfectly centered on the flat mounting pad. Opening the hole crates a real dusty mess! That stuff is now all over my garage (and I had the door open and was at the door opening when I was grinding! I had fiberglass dust boogers, gross.) I'm going to pull it into the driveway for my next cutting project.

First issue / question.
The bulb mounting tabs. At first I didn't understand how to properly position the bulb, then realized the tabs key onto the bosses on the bulb. My concern with the tabs are they are VERY soft aluminum and bend WAY TOO EASY. After I assembled one side, I accidentally pushed on the bulb and bent 2 of them. Dammit, had to take it all back apart. (I wouldn't have minded that in the summer, but it was 40* and my hands were getting cold).
question #1, does anyone make or is there a DIY for stronger tabs? I can probably figure out something and create a template and buy new screws, etc. But I'd rather not re-invent the wheel if someone has already done this.



The second concern I had was the "clip". I installed them, but there was no resistance and they didn't seem to do anything. I'm thinking about removing the trim ring and bending them out to create more tension.
question #2, what have others done with the clip?
btw, I didn't catch it the first time I read the manual, but there is another screw that goes in the bottem, near the clip to hold the bulb in.



I did notice after it was all assembled that one of the headlights rattles just a little bit. I'll take care of that when the garage warms up today.

Head-lights & turn-signals, installed and working......... DONE! :001_tongue:
 

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1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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I did the same thing. Cut some new clips out a left over piece of FFR aluminum. It's much stiffer.

Greg
 

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Snake Farmer
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10,396 Posts
a small bead of clear silicone sealant does the trick on the retainer ring
I just used a couple of dabs of the same..no problems..Simple yet effective.:)
 

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Snake Farmer
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X3 for silicone. If you ever have to change the bulb a razor blade will make short work of it.
Even better is if you replace the seal beams with an aftermarket headlight. You can easily access/replace the bulb from the backside. There are some nice tri-bar style. or other 7" ones that use the H9004 bulbs.:)
 

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You can easily access/replace the bulb from the backside. :)
Maybe or maybe not. Mine came with a plastic bucket that mounts to the body so you have to remove the ring and then pop the lamp out. It's only one screw though and pretty simple. I would second going to a better H3 type lamp. Hella, Cibie or even the Wipac E code lamps that FFR used to supply are good.

Frank

PS: The lamp will rattle if you don't get the clips on just so. Look closely and you'll see how they need to sit to be secure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good help on the weak tabs, I'll it to my to-do list to pull them back off when it warms up and apply some silicon to them.

As far as the spring clips go, I have them installed correctly (I believe), but there's no tension and they almost fall off. Are they supposed to keep it from rattling? I might try opening them up just a little.
 

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Baghdad Bob
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I dont. Have the clips nor can i find a source. I will try the dsb of dilicone trick.
 
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