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I am about to bolt the hooker headers for the 351W. The engine is installed and I pre fit up the side pipes and the cut outs will work. I have modified a swivel boxend 7/16 wrench to tighten the header bolts to the block and i realize that this is a bitch of a job. I cannot get a socket on it and very little leverage. I have the gasket that came with the kit installed. I plan to use thread locker as the FF manual suggests. I realize that once i do that i may have to pull the engine to ever take off the headers. Should i use RTV gold or any sealant on the gasket first. Is there a torque value....not that i could get a torque wrench in there. Or and i just thought of this and i dont like the thought but should i have put the headers on before installing the engine.

Sam
 

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Some tips:

Use Grade 8 header bolts with the tear drop shaped locks that you custom trim for a perfect fit.

The fiber gasket will blow out. I can't speak for RTV on the header flange but it's better than nothing for sure.

I used Earls gaskets on two builds and never looked back.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-29d03aerl

Greg
 

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Yes I did. I would still say Grade 8 locking bolts are mandatory with any header install. I don't like thread locker (loctite) on header bolts. In fact if you have AL heads you should coat the bolts with anit-sieze.

Greg
 

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Fitting the headers and sidepipes is one of the most labor intensive knuckle busting jobs on the build. I'll second what, Greg said get Stage 8 header bolts and the teardrop 12 point locks. (the bolts are hex head) They also have a halfmoon lock but they may take a little more filing for that perfect fit. You'll have to file either style so be prepared. As far as wrenches go, use whatever it takes, box, open end or whatever and don't be surprised if you have to access some bolts from underneath the car. Use anti seize on the bolts, not Loctite.
Tip: Check the depth of the header bolt holes to make sure the bolts don't bottom out before acheiving full clamping force.

I have a set of unmolested Earl's gaskets I couldn't use. If you decide to go that way PM me.

Frank
 

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I used Percy's locking header bolts. They work great and use a 3/8 12 point wrench or socket. As Greg said use anti-seize if you have aluminum heads. I also use the Percy's dead soft aluminum header gaskets, both quality products. -- Chuck
 

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Take a close look at how your gaskets fit on your headers. These are the biggest gaskets I could find in the catalog. They fit the heads just fine. But look at how hey fit the header flanges. The gasket only covers the port by about 1/4". They won't last long.



I quit using gaskets years ago, silicone only. So far, not a single failure.



I'v had to R&R the headers so many times over the years, I'v lost count. Now it's an easy task for me, and doesn't take long at all.

- Cut the head off if a 3/8" x 1" bolt. Screw that in 1-2 turns into the most foreward bolt hole.
- Hang the header off that stud while you get the other bolts started.
- Get all the bolts started 1-2 turns.
- Go up and down the line and turn each bolt only 1-2 turns until they are snug
- then torque them to specs in the proper pattern.
- Those bolts are a pain in the neck. It takes a variety of tools to get them all tight. I made a couple of wrenches, and use a short wrench and a crows foot to get all 16 of them tight.
- With that thought in mind, I use only 6 point bolts.
- I started out with stage 8 bolts with locking tabs. The tabs were a pain getting them all in the right position. I quit using them a few years ago. I never have a loose header bolt. Maybe the silicone works like a flexible thread locker.
 

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These are about the best fitting header gaskets for the SBF I've found without going to Copper etc. They keep the part # pretty well hidden for some reason. They cleared my header ports fine and were large enough for the ports on my Victor Jr heads. Fel-Pro #1487
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1487
 

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oohhh memories

i went copper gaskets, and copper RTV around specific areas
stage 8 bolts with copper antiseize into alum. heads
the fitting sucked and is the most time consuming, did these about 4 times thru the build, the first time i used the f5r supplied because i knew i would be removing them.

the stage 8 still loosen up and each one is special to each connection, meaning widdling the snap key to conform to fit, has to do with the final snug of the wrench and where the hex meets and the key gets snapped on.....keep a magnet, flashlight, knee pads, patience handy while you crawl on the ground looking for the lost snap key that decided to ping and fly into the black hole of engine building:evil:
every type of engine eats some partor socket, don't matter if its a bowtie, a blue oval, or a mopar.
i found that a moving blanket under the area where i am wrenching has saved me the aggravation of hunting for lost parts or tools, most of the time you just pull the blanket out and its there. the last snap key i looked for a good hour, finally found it on top of the chassis motor mount, but that was after i articulated, and conformed my body to see it:evil:
i took a brass drift or punch and pinged the side of the Hooker headers a bit to get more room on the hard ones, ground the face of a box wrench to fit on some.

my heads are RHS and i wish the supplied headers had both bolt patterns on the flange......ohhhh the flange that isn't flat......now thats another subject
the flange had some hand milling done to it with a file and then it got sprayed with high heat header paint over the areas where the ceramic coating may of been compromised.

another help tip: the side pipe to header gasket i have used the same one just smear copper antiseize on all faces and bolt her up locking washers
 
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