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This is really looking good! I may need you help on bezel.
Are you just mouting display or the whole tablet?
 

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Discussion Starter #424
Mostofa, that's a cool concept. Did you draw all of that with Processing, or
did you use a static image for the background?

Today I managed to test the gauges in the car, and it worked really well.
The Tach needle doesn't bounce "realistically" because I'm averaging 40
samples of RPM before it's displayed. I was about to try 5 samples, but
had an electrical issue with the GTM wiring that prevented a restart.

For some reason, after I connected the Fan ground, the fans turned on, and
the engine shut off instantly. It would not restart, or crank. The voltage
kept showing 6.4 volts when I turned on the ignition as if the battery was dead,
or there was a partial short.

After disconnecting all relays, fuses, and accessories nothing changed. I ended
up removing harnesses from all of the sensors, fuel pump, alternator, PCM, etc.

After removing all connections to the harness - literally an open ended wire,
there was no answer. Lastly, I removed the ground from the battery, and
did some load tests with fog lamps, and other high watt items. The meter
showed 12.14 under load, so I began to connect everything again.

The voltage remained steady like nothing happened. That doesn't make
me feel very good because it might happen while I'm driving. I'll have to
triple check my connections, grounds, and fan relay.

I hate chasing 'ghosts', don't you?!
 

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Discussion Starter #425
I decided to pull the starter and bench test it. The gear would pop out, but
wouldn't turn. It loaded my power supply pretty good, and sure enough a new
starter solved the problem.

The MSD unit had approximately 30 cranks before it failed. There's a heat
shield between the exhaust, but I don't know if heat was an issue.

The new B&M seems like a branded copy of the MSD. What do you think?

I'm happy to say the gauges are working. The values are reading higher
because my offsets are incorrect in the software, but that's a quick
mathematical fix. We're good to go!

 

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Did you find out why car turn off when fan came on?

I did all the drawing in Photoshop and then make bit map for moving part, all software in Visual studio using Allegro libraries, there is a lot more work to be done, just wanted to get some of the basis working for now.

Mostafa
 

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Discussion Starter #427
Mostafa, the problem was the starter; I think I may have posted just as you were online,
but the previous entry explains what happened.

If you're not sick of the LCD testing videos yet, then have a look at this one.
The tach is now matching engine RPM properly. I've also taken a screen shot
of the HP Tuners log vs. what my program is capturing.

The slight difference is that my software is averaging 10 samples, then displaying
the tach value which makes the needle bounce less, whereas HP Tuners is
recording from the OBDII port.

It's nice to be able to see the data side by side, and have a bench mark to
calibrate against. Since the processor only accepts 5 volts input, there is
some voltage reduction and math involved, but it's dead-nuts on the money.

I even cleaned my monitor this time! :001_tongue:
 

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When I was using processing and simulating fast movements I did not like how it jumped since I just could not refresh the screen at refresh rate (60), we need to make this look better than analog or as good, so more samples and better averaging may be in order, RPM is going to be hard to get really nice, speed and other will not be too bad.
Part of the jump could also be the video since it is only 15 to 30 frames a second, it may be live.
You can use software called “Fraps” to record the pc screen (it is free used by gamers), GTM shakes a lot!
Do you have crate engine?
You may also be able to use Arduino timer instead of A2D to read the RPM.
Mostafa
 

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Discussion Starter #429 (Edited)
I'm running my program at 60 fps, but my cell phone is not able to capture the
clarity and response of the needle movement. I could probably use 24 fps, or less
and still see a clear needle progression, as well as free up processing power.

Have you tried the function: smooth(x), or nosmooth() ?

It may help your needle movement.

I'll have to try FRAPS because I've used NCH Suite for screen capturing and it's terrible.
If I'm not mistaken, the Flight Simmer's use FRAPS quite a bit and it looks great!

My engine is a 2007 LQ9, with 32K KMs. Modified cam, exhaust, and externals.

For the counter, I'm using internal clock of the processor with a fixed gate timer on
ICP4, and ICP5 to count pulses per period of time.
 

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I tired smooth() it did not do much, I had the frame rate high, but I was not getting the rate, only way I got high frame rate was to reduce the resolution.

just because I set it to 60 did not mean I got it, I put a loop counter in the loop and that it how I got the real frame rate, but as long as it look good then it really does not matter for you.
 

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P.S.
Also if you use FRAPS, you will need to use files compressor after words otherwise it will take way to long to upload.

the results is great since it stores every all the bit maps.
 

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Discussion Starter #432
I had success using static images for most of my display. The only moving
animations are the two needles.
Also conserve processing power by limiting the use of float variables. You
may find the frame rate increases if that’s your goal.

Thanks for the tip on FRAPS, I'll give it a try one day soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #433
A picture of progress!

This photo is beautiful. Not because it's unique from the others, but because it
marks the completion of a task that is so under-rated in complexity that it
boggles my mind.

Did anyone else lose their mind connecting the hoses to the Vintage Air box?

 

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Discussion Starter #435 (Edited)
Thanks for the heads-up. I'll be drowning that area with heat treatment.

In other news, I'm jumping though hoops to find some wiper motor parts.
According to the GM dealer, this piece is no longer available, and the wreckers
doesn't have any C5 Vettes to pull from.

Where can I get the piece that connects to the wiper rod?

edit: It seems the C6 has the same motor. It may be possible to fab it myself as a last resort.
 

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Discussion Starter #437
I think I’ve beat the heat? After covering the tunnel with an aluminum shield, and heat wrap,
I’ve put some heat treatment over the vent hoses, and vertical bars in front of the evaporator.

The 2 inch bars give a good deal of surface area for the ThermoTec shield to stick onto. The screws
and washers are added insurance to keep things in place. All of the edges are wrapped with
aluminum duct tape.

If I feel any heat in the cabin, I’m going to lose it!

I’m getting ready to put the front, and rear glass on soon. Any pointers? The pillars seem very
slack, which allows quite a bit of flex. I’m worried that the glass will crack if the body twists.

I’ll have to use several fasteners, and maybe some firm rubber gasket between the pillars and
roll cage. Time to hit the search function!
 

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Discussion Starter #438
Getting ready to install the glass. The windshield is sitting nice all around, and hopefully I"ve done enough to prevent flexing amd shifting of the body near the pillars.

Any words of caution before I pull the trigger?
 

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Hey Tino,

What are you exactly trying to do with the Windshield?

Are you installing it permanently, or for temporary use, and will be taking it back out again?

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #440
Going with a permanent method. Any future mods can be made with the body installed, however at one point I thought that removing the body for paint would be an option.
 
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