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Discussion Starter #1
It's a go!!! :w00t:

Just a little setback with the cam sensor harness, but the motor is alive. Alive, but not all well...just yet.


By the end of the video there's a tiny backfire, and then the engine dies. Could be lack of fuel again as I
was repairing the AN cross-over connector. I'll check the level, and do it again later.

The HP Tuner scan shows an odd trend for B1/B2 Injector pulse width which jumped from an average of 4.8 msec
to 12 msec quite rapidly. Something leaned out, and the computer tried to compensate.



My gauges are not working except the tach., so that's my next order of business. Power is there, and signal
lines are connected. Must be my method of connection:
I= 12V switched power
G= Ground
S= Sensor signal
Seems good to me? Power is there on I, and S.

I'd really like to get this go-kart testing done before the snow arrives. This weekend will be dedicated to getting the
engine locked up, and wires trimmed, tucked, and loomed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's cool! I'm seeing quite a few members at this stage. Seems like the world is
Going to see a handful of GTM's this Summer!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It appears that I'm going to drop the ego, and dig deep into my pockets for a "real" paint job. I've given up the dream that I'll be able to get close to
a pro-looking paint finish on my own.

Having said that, my car wont be ready for paint this year - there's just too much to add, and figure out. I want to modify the rear tail lights, the rear hatch,
add side scoops, spoiler, and who knows what else.

For that reason, I'm going to attempt a temporary paint job myself, and save my pennies for a proper, killer, show car edition the following Winter. This means I'll have
to redo the bodywork, and have it prepped again. I'm willing to go through those extra steps to have the GTM on the streets this year. After hearing my
engine fire up, there's no way I'm going to let it still another twelve months will I'm saving the cash.

There's someone in mind that is going to paint the car. He boasts about his, "ice show car shine", and attention to detail. I'll be checking out some of his work soon. Maybe he'll allow me to post some pictures of his portfolio here for critique.

Does anyone have any words of caution about my process? IE: Don't use xxx primer if you're going to sand it all down again.
 

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Two paint jobs

You are taking the same path we do on the paint. IMHO you will end up with a much better end result, especially if you're going to do any modifications to the fg. Also it much easier to work out the mechanical bugs on a car when you're not always worried about scratching the paint. You might also find that painting a car isn't so hard. The only disadvantage is the cost of the materials. I estimate the cost of materials on our car was about $2500. But that was for top of the line paints primers etc. I'll bet you could get all your materials for about. $1000 - $1500 if think of your first paint job as a shinny coat of primer. Go to your local automotive paint supply store and tell them what you are trying to do. I'll bet once they see either your car or some pictures they'll be willing to help you out. One way you can save on the paint is to ask them to give you a call if they get any paint back for color matching issues. In other words someone had some paint made up and for whatever the reason the customer didn't like it. There is nothing wrong with the paint and they might sell it to you at a substantial discount. It probably won't be the color you want, but you are only using it as a shinny primer right? And a GTM looks good in any color.
 

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It appears that I'm going to drop the ego, and dig deep into my pockets for a "real" paint job. I've given up the dream that I'll be able to get close to
a pro-looking paint finish on my own.

Having said that, my car wont be ready for paint this year - there's just too much to add, and figure out. I want to modify the rear tail lights, the rear hatch,
add side scoops, spoiler, and who knows what else.

For that reason, I'm going to attempt a temporary paint job myself, and save my pennies for a proper, killer, show car edition the following Winter. This means I'll have
to redo the bodywork, and have it prepped again. I'm willing to go through those extra steps to have the GTM on the streets this year. After hearing my
engine fire up, there's no way I'm going to let it still another twelve months will I'm saving the cash.

There's someone in mind that is going to paint the car. He boasts about his, "ice show car shine", and attention to detail. I'll be checking out some of his work soon. Maybe he'll allow me to post some pictures of his portfolio here for critique.

Does anyone have any words of caution about my process? IE: Don't use xxx primer if you're going to sand it all down again.
FWIW…… Before you decide to just run your GTM in primer, you might just want to talk to whoever is going to do the final “Killer” body and paint job.

Usually painters/body men that do that type of finish work, tend to track towards being Prima donnas, and don’t like to follow behind some one else’s work. So they will either say no, or charge you a whole lot more than if you just waited, and let them do the work from start to finish
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good idea, I will be talking with him early February, and will tell him my plan.

For the cable throttle guys, what are you using? I'm checking out some
Lokar product, but nothing seems to be long enough. My routing will require
about 120 inches (no sex jokes!), or about 9.5 - 10 feet.

Worst case, I could always join two cables together...or I'll hit up some
cycle shop for a custom made link?

Show'em, if you got'em! :smoke:
 

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There has to be someone as several guys are not fly by wire now.

California Push Pull will do just about anything but I am sure there is something out there. A lot of sand buggies use LS in the rear and need cables. HTH, Richard.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys I'll check it out.

Anyone in the Tulsa or Broken Arrow (oklahoma) area? PM me to meet for coffee, and
Talk cars. I'm here until the 23rd
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Time to show off my spot welds! After a few hours of watching videos, reading, and practicing on scrap metal I tried my first ever spot weld. It looks pretty good, and is holding well.
I have a new respect for those who weld for a living! Maybe after a month of practicing, I'll be able to weld my own bead, but for now I'll let my buddy complete the task.

If all goes well, I'll have the exhaust routed tonight, and the seats/accelerator pedal in tomorrow. There wont be any chance of a test drive until the weather improves however. We
currently have over a foot of snow, and it's still coming down. Maybe next week for a test drive?!

Here are some shots of the test fitting, and spot welds. This is three inch, mandrel tubing.
 

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Lokar will supply you with any length you want in one foot increments that you can cut to length. I have the much stiffer Morse style cable and will change it to a Lokar soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, that's good to know.

I think I've found a great solution for a 1/10th of the cost. I'll post the results after testing it out.

Essentially, it's two brake cables for a bike linked together using a
hardware box (similar to the e-brake cable). It's one extra link that
could possibly fail, but the throttle blade is hardly loading the tensile
capacity of the wire. I don't expect any issues long term.
 

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I would recommend that you reconsider the "bike cable double up" thing. There are two things on a GTM, or any other car for that matter, that I will not mess around with...brakes and THROTTLE HARDWARE. Do yourself a favor...don't go out to eat twice and buy the best throttle cable you can find instead. The money you save on the meals should more than cover the cost of the cable. You will understand the first time you push down on the pedal in your GTM.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's not as much about the cost as it is/was about finding a cable long enough.
Luckily I haven't gone past the point of no return so I'll check on that Lokar
option with custom length.

I know what you mean about "feel"; there's no need for a grainy, choppy feel
as the cable slides back, and forth. Never really thought about that. Thanks
for the heads-up.
 

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The link I posted above allows you ANY length cable you need. They make them to order. so no 1" increments or anything like that. They ask you exactly how long, what throw, what type of hardware, the amount of force required, and then build you EXACTLY what you need. Should be under $150.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For those familiar with the G96 transaxle:

I need to know the thread size to connect the hydraulic line to the slave
unit.

The part number is 997.116.237.04

I will likely use some sort of adapter, or hose end for AN fitting (probably -3, or -4 AN).

Thank you in advance for any info.
 
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