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FFR Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #1
Saturday, my Powermaster 100amp 1W, and March 30180 pulley kit arrived. Today, I wrestled with installation.

First minor bump: how to remove the alternator pulley/fan? Took me a bit of thinking and just used my impact wrench! Alignment to the crank pulley was off by just 1/16-1/8". I used the original lock-washer and placed it behind the fan. Used the supplied lock-washer from March for the nut. Used the impact driver to secure the assy. back on.

Second minor bump: the lower alternator bracket is a little billet alum. piece with 2 holes; one for the alternator, the other for the tensioning rod. Found out the hole for the alternator did not align with the Powermaster; perhaps due to the chrome plating??? Had to remove about 1/16" in the 12 o'clock position for it to sit right.

Third bump: The bolt from the lower alternator bracket to the tensioner is not long enough; only 1/8" sticks out behind the bracket. Will need to purchase a bolt that's 1-3/8"-1-1/2" long.

Forth major bump: this one is bad. I used my square to ensure everything alinged with the crank pulley. The kit I got from March required a 15/16" damper spacer to the crank pulley. The alternator aligns 100% perfect when the spacer was installed. However, prior to putting on the alternator bracket, I bolted the water pump pulley and crank pulley w/spacer and found the WP pulley is 1/4" back from the crank pulley. I did a few more measurements to be sure.
With the alternator bracket in place, the WP pulley interferes with the bracket.

I stacked about 4 5/16" washers behind the pulley for an approx. 1/4". The bolt is only 1/8" longer than that so I need to buy 4 new bolts that are 1/4" longer than what I have.

While the washers will work, I was wondering if anyone made a 1/4" spacer for the water pump flange?

In any case, here's a preliminary picture of my setup:

 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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1,291 Posts
Looks nice. I have the March pulley kit and the 100amp powermaster on my 351. I used Eversons bracket for the alternator and had to get a FMS spacer to get the crank to line up. I did not have any issues with the waterpump though since I changed to a reverse rotation.

Nathan
 

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Professional Internet Browser
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9,945 Posts
Dont use the washers for the water pump pulley. Most washers are not consistent thickness. Look in jegs/summit/fortes/etc. Water pump spacers are sold everywhere.
 

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FFR Craftsman
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5,833 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Aaron, thanks. I'll check them out.

*EDIT*

Found them! I did a search on "water pump spacer" and found that Moroso sells them for just $6.99.

I'm getting 2 sets (ea. comes with two 1/16" shims and a 1/8" shim.) While my measurements showed it at .25", I want to be extra sure I get it as close as I can (March allows for up to 1/16" difference).

Thanks again!

[ January 24, 2005, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: 289FIA_Cobra ]
 

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Senior Member
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1,568 Posts
looks nice. are those the MSD spark plug wires? And where did you get the wire loom from?

Curtis
 

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How would a guy go about putting all the pieces and parts together for this set-up if I wanted to use a power steering unit?
Would I need an idler/tensioner and/or a reverse rotation water pump?
BTW, looks great- I hope my engine comes out as nice.

Thanks,
Bob
 

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Charter Member
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2,649 Posts
Looks really nice! They really dress up the engine nicely along with the looms. I would suggest you consider removing the looms when you go to install the engine. The compartment clearance is tight and if yo need to rock the engine side to side to get the mount bolts in the holes leave a possibility of breaking the loom mounts.
Bob Mac
FFR3981
 

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FFR Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #9
Bob, I'm glad you brought this up. Can you remind me again in oh, say 2 years from now???? Seriously, that's when I expect to get the kit. If things go according to plan, It will only take about 2 weeks to get to the go-kart stage and I might just forget to take the loom out before dropping the engine in.

Curtis: those are by R&M Specialties. Got them at Summit Racing; http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=R%26M+Specialties+Ford


BS: the best thing to do is actually call March Peformance and tell them everything you can about the engine, dampener, alternator, steering pump and water pump used. Part numbers would be especially helpful. They were very close but my engine is really a "mutt" since it's a 5.0L block, using standard rotation WP and a "short" WP at that, along with the PowerMaster alternator, not the OEM version. Even then, based on all the thread searches I did on this site, it appears a washer here and there are still needed if you really want these things dead-on-nuts accurate. I added a 5/16" washer on the tensioner rod heim joint that attaches to the WP since it was a bit too loose for my taste. Even then, there's like a 1/2mm gap but I figure it wouldn't be enough to stress the alum. bracket much.

cwood: well, when one has a 5 year timeline, there's really no excuses I would think. But you never really know because I've never built an engine before (at least nothing on this scale.) But thanks for the compliment.
 
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