[ffroggy]

I am buying a used setup but it is missing the pushrod. Should I use a modified Mustang pushrod? Any tips on modifying the mustang pushrod? Otherwise, anyone have an extra GN pushrod laying around? Thanks.

 

[Cooolcobra]

I used the mustang pushrod. Measure it, cut it a little longer "hacksaw", then grind it to a rounded tip. Works great for me.

 

[cobramd]

Yeah what Cooolcobra said. Using the mustang pushrod also allows easy use of the mustang brakelight switch.

 

[William Miller]

I cut down and reused the mustang pushrod. Hopefully the following pictures wil help.
I relocated the compressor off to the driver side with 2 pieces of steel angle iron. The last pic shows the unit installed through the louver-hole.

 

[n559br]

I had a friend turn down a mustang rod for me.

You don't need to make such an involved bracket.

Ben

 

[ffroggy]

So I install the master cylinder and measure the length I need the pushrod to be, cut it and grind it to the right length, leaving about an extra 1/4" for any error? Did you guys use the 3 spacers for the master cylinder that FFR provides with the kit? Anyone have a measurement so I can verify I am in the ballpark? There are no pedal mods neccessary, right? Great pics, this helps a lot. Thanks again.

 

[n559br]

I will tell you that grinding that thing is a bear. We used a lathe to torn it down.

I used 1 pacer from FFR and had to enlarge the center hole some with a die grinder.

Ben

 

[ffroggy]

I notice you made a new groove in the pushrod behind the tip. Is that for a retainer clip or something? Is that needed? I thought you didn't use a retainer clip. I don't think mine came with one as the pushrod is missing. Sorry for all the questions but this could be a life or death issue.

 

[n559br]

In the picture the top rod is the stock GN pushrod. The bottom is the Ford. There was a plastic clip holding the pushrod in place. It's not really necessary sinc you are holding it in by compression between the MC and pedal.

Don't ever apologize for asking questions until you fully understand something. When you stop and screw something up that's when you feel bad.

Ben

 

[ffroggy]

Thanks, Ben. Anyone have a measurement (even a rough one)so I don't cut the rod too short?

 

[William Miller]

I was unable to mount the compressor to the 3/4" tubing like Ben did because I was retrofitting the unit into a built car. I ran a HUGE amount of wiring around that tube, and mounting it directly there wasn't an option (plus moving it over gives you some extra room if you ever decide to go with 4 into 4's)

I went back with the same # of spacers I had before (2). It only took about 15 min. with a hack saw, then side grinder to shorten and shape the mustang pushrod. The groove on the end is definitely not needeed, and held the old neoprene retainer in place. If you grind yours with a rough side grinder like I did, I would recommend some smooth sanding and a dollop of grease on the tip to prevent any binding in the MC.

Sorry, but I don't have any measurements of the cut pushrod. You didn't mention whether you were upgrading, or doing a 1st-time install... If you are upgrading, just measure the distance from the old Mustang MC mounting flange to the end of the pre-cut pushrod (with pushrod inserted into MC). That is the distance you want to duplicate with the GN MC and cut-pushrod.

I hope this made sense...

[ September 24, 2002, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: William Miller ]

 

[cobramd]

I ended up not using any spacers. I found that I was getting into space problems with my coil so I just bolted it up to the metal. Spacers don't really matter if your cutting the pushrod. I guess you could use them for a fudge factor incase you cut the pushrod too short you could just remove them. Just remember its a real tight area with the coil,starter relay and wiring harness.

 

[Bill]

Here's a new FFR FAQ on this topic: http://www.ffcars.com/FAQ/brakes_gn.html