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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone else have issues assembling the glove box?

I have been at it for some time. Truth be told over a month. I could not get it to work before I took the car into the shop. The shop needed the dash and gauges. So now I made the situation even harder.

The digital instructions state to sandwich the dog ear part of the hinge between the vinyl door and metal backing.

Well that was never going to work.

I called FFR. He said not to do that. Glue the metal backing down then put the hinge assembly on the dash. Clamp it all down. Then the hinge (dog ear) should fall naturally on the metal backing. Mark it glue it.

The provided holes on the dash were no where near in the right place. Easy fix.

However the hinge does not look like it will ever lay flush.

I'm I missing and area to adjust?

The long hinge plate is as far as possible towards the cockpit. If that makes since. I can slide towards the engine a little.


Jason
 

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the long metal piece that the hinge arms mount to is upside down. The hinge mounts should be facing down and close to the dash surface.
Heres how I do it.
Mount the hinge mount the correct way with a washer in between the hinge and the dash. This will simulate having the glove box in place.
Place the dash face down on a table.
drop the door in place and then drop the aluminum plate in place.
move the hinges down so they touch the aluminum.
mark the holes through the hinges. take it all apart and drill and rivet the hinges to the aluminum.
Make sure the head of the rivet will be in between the door and aluminum/
reinstall everything.
silicone the back side of the door and then press the aluminum plate into the silicone. Let it sit over night.

Please note FFR has you sandwich the hinges in between the door and the plate. I could not get mine to line up so I did it my way.
Hope this all makes sense.
Biggest problem you are having is the hinge bracket being installed wrong.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the long metal piece that the hinge arms mount to is upside down. The hinge mounts should be facing down and close to the dash surface.
Heres how I do it.
Mount the hinge mount the correct way with a washer in between the hinge and the dash. This will simulate having the glove box in place.
Place the dash face down on a table.
drop the door in place and then drop the aluminum plate in place.
move the hinges down so they touch the aluminum.
mark the holes through the hinges. take it all apart and drill and rivet the hinges to the aluminum.
Make sure the head of the rivet will be in between the door and aluminum/
reinstall everything.
silicone the back side of the door and then press the aluminum plate into the silicone. Let it sit over night.

Please note FFR has you sandwich the hinges in between the door and the plate. I could not get mine to line up so I did it my way.
Hope this all makes sense.
Biggest problem you are having is the hinge bracket being installed wrong.
Mike

Thank you

Some of this I can not do.

However i will turn the bracket over and change the washer. Thank you o will let you know
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok this is by far the longest single project on the car. Lol but it's done it's not bad.

I did not put the box on yet.

What is stopping me from leaving it off and or cutting it down just big enough for a phone or gps wallet

And still putting a heater on the car?

I wanted the premade dash and I like that the door breaks up the dash. But I don't nessacerly care about the glove box itself.

Jason

Jason
 

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Hi Jason,

I run a heater (it rocks) I had exactly the same thought of mounting the
glove box to break up the dash. However when I fitted the dash I reckon there was only 15 mm clearance between the dash and the heater. Still prefer the look of the glove boxes, but didn't get around to installing one. I also would have needed to build glove box from scratch as I could not find one for a RHD dash.

Above all, you need small hands and equally small gloves to make decent use of the glove box. ?

Cheers Nigel in South Oz.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Jason,

I run a heater (it rocks) I had exactly the same thought of mounting the
glove box to break up the dash. However when I fitted the dash I reckon there was only 15 mm clearance between the dash and the heater. Still prefer the look of the glove boxes, but didn't get around to installing one. I also would have needed to build glove box from scratch as I could not find one for a RHD dash.

Above all, you need small hands and equally small gloves to make decent use of the glove box. ?

Cheers Nigel in South Oz.
Lol thank you
 

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jason
i too wanted to have the heater more than the glove box, so I didn't order the glove box option. i'm planning on doing a custom dash, and also wanted to break up the large blank space on the PS dash, so i'm doing an interesting design element on the dash so it doesn't look too empty.
my understanding is that the glove box is not really functional anyway. you could either just keep the door in place for a faux box, cut the depth down so it's a very shallow box, or look into the forward firewall option that allows you to use both the heater and the box together, but may require redoing your wiring etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
jason
i too wanted to have the heater more than the glove box, so I didn't order the glove box option. i'm planning on doing a custom dash, and also wanted to break up the large blank space on the PS dash, so i'm doing an interesting design element on the dash so it doesn't look too empty.
my understanding is that the glove box is not really functional anyway. you could either just keep the door in place for a faux box, cut the depth down so it's a very shallow box, or look into the forward firewall option that allows you to use both the heater and the box together, but may require redoing your wiring etc.
I'm thinking about making a block off plate so you can not see behind the dash if you open the door and it would still hold a wallet and phone
Though there really no security there I probably still wouldn't put anything valuable in the box whole or not.

Then see if the heater unit will fit.

Jason
 

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Wanted to & do drive the car all year round. Took a quick & dirty solution to fill the big blank space.



EDIT: Just to add. The snake is self stick 3D part from Amazon. Came with two pieces a left & right facing snake.



The raised Cobra script is from a CobraJet badge used on some Mustang hood scoops. I just cut the Jet letters off. It is also from Amazon & is self stick
 
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I have a heater and a glove box. Either the firewall forward mod or fabricating a box for the heater to move forward will allow for both. I did the latter. Here are a couple of pictures. Still have to finish the door. I want to inlay some polished aluminum and add rivets to match the steering wheel.

HTH

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a heater and a glove box. Either the firewall forward mod or fabricating a box for the heater to move forward will allow for both. I did the latter. Here are a couple of pictures. Still have to finish the door. I want to inlay some polished aluminum and add rivets to match the steering wheel.

HTH



Norm

Nice thank you
 

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If you move the heater or firewall forward, watch for interference between the 90* elbows and the valve covers. Mine interfered, so I cut the inlet & outlet shorter (be sure to offset the cuts & make the long cut first!), and used a flare tool (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A8FTIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to put a bead around the pipe end for the hose clamp to grab onto. Then I used rubber 90* hoses to avoid the valve covers.

I would have liked a more pronounced bead, but after 3000 miles no leaks or slips.


John

IMG_3462 by jhsitton, on Flickr

IMG_3993 by jhsitton, on Flickr
 
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