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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed the front suspension this weekend and really had a hard time getting the shocks installed. The assembly manual doesn't explain how to do it very well and I believe I got everything installed in it's proper place but as I said the assembly manual is very much lacking in good info. The manual doesn't say what or how to adjust the coil over shocks. I had to turn the adjuster down as far as they would go without falling off the threaded part and even that low it was very hard to get the shocks mounted. Did I miss something? Is there some place in the manual that that tells how to do this? The rear coil over instructions say to adjust the rears till there is 3 inches of threads showing I believe but I haven't seen any where what the fronts should be. I am also having trouble doing the adjustment. When I turn the adjuster ring the threaded portion turns with the ring, yes I loosened the set screw. Any body got any help for me? I know I must be doing something wrong as I haven't read other complaints
about this.
 

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It's a tight fit. You're right that the instructions aren't great. I had to muscle mine in there with some help from the guys. Did you get the proper spacers with yours? I wound up inventing mine out of washers, because what they sent me wasn't adequate at all. Hopefully it'll hold up.

I haven't tried adjusting mine yet. Good luck getting some more info.

Cheers, John
 

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Just did this on Sunday. I set the bolt running through the plate and the first (short, rear) spacer to stage it. Then with one hand I used the butt end of a wooden mallet handle to compress the shock far enough to line up with the bolt, and pushed the bolt through the eye in the shock. Then I grabbed the longer front spacer, and compressed the shock again to give enough play to push the bolt the rest of the way through.

Hope this helps.

AJ
 

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I has been more than a year since I installed the CA's and shocks, but I do not remember that much difficulty with the install. The only thing I remember is that I had to install shocks upside down and that the metal bushings/spacers for the shock bolts were a little tight. Other than that, I am not sure where you are having problems. Can you post pictures? That may help with troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have both CA's and shocks installed. I didn't use a wooden mallet, I used the short section of steering shaft against the rod end and pushed the shock down while installing the bolt and spacers. Yes, it would have been a lot easier if I had someone else there to help but I didn't so I did it by myself. Now that I have them in I need to know how much to compress the springs and how do I do it without the threaded tube turning when I turn the adjusting ring.???? As I said the set screw is loose but the threaded tube turns with the adjuster ring.
 

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My 'threaded tube' also turns on the outside of the shocks. I've not been able to figure out how to keep it from rotating when I turn the adjusting ring. So far, I've just held it by hand. With no load on the spring, I've been able to adjust it (so far). No engine or anything is installed yet, so I don't have any preload on the spring. Don't know how I'll ever get it to adjust once I have to adjust it to the point where it will start to compress the spring with the suspension fully extended.
 

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A couple months ago, BigFoot suggested that a 2" hose clamp is better than the setscrew for locking the ring. For one thing, the setscrew is going to destroy the plastic threads where it goes in. That's what I'm planning to do, although I haven't done it yet. It occurs to me that the screw portion of the clamp would make a good grip for holding the sleeve also, while turning the ring. After adjusting, just reposition the hose clamp adjacent to the adjusting ring again.

Hope this helps.

AJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The hose clamp sounds like a good idea and I'll try it but the threaded tube is not plastic on my shocks. Even so I think the set screw would do some damage to the threads. I donn't know if the clamp will hold the threaded tube while adjusting the locking (adjuster) ring but it's worth a try.
I wonder why the threaded tube doesn't have a set screw or some kind of tab that would prevent it from rotating when turning the locking ring. ?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Talked to Mark Webber (Factory Five) today and he said that when the car is on wheels and has weight on the suspension the CA's can be adjusted.
I thought that might be the case but we'll see.
When I got my kit (MKII) I got the competition bracket and it had 4 (four) holes instead of two.
Mark said that I got the bracket for the MKIII by mistake but that it really doesn't matter, I just install it using the bottom and the third from bottom holes. Seems to work and line up fine.
 

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There was a post earlier in the spring about the threaded sleeve turning on the new Bilstein shocks. You also have to be sure you install the threaded sleeve correctly on the shock--on one end there is a small recess or counterbore that is supposed to seat over the snap ring on the shock body.

I remember one guy commenting he held the threaded sleeve from turning with a rag covered pipewrench or some such tool. Another suggested sliding the sleeve onto the shock with some silicone or locktite to prevent it from turning--but the comment was this would make removal at a later time REAL difficult. Haven't heard any more on this since--but I know it applies to the new Bilsteins (silver color,small diameter springs)) and not the older proshocks (gold color, large diameter springs)

Has anybody else figured out a better solution??
 
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