Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Blues n Brews
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed new front brakes and spindles and am experiencing a problem. I installed the PBR Cobra front calipers with 13 inch rotors and SN95 spindles. I now have a issue with the rim rubbing the face of the caliper where the word COBRA is cast into it. I have 17 inch Halibrand replica rims which Factory Five sells. It appears a wheel spacer will be needed for clearance. Does anyone know where I can purchase them? I looks like the rims need spaced out a little more than 3/8 of an inch so probably a 1/2 inch spacer would work. I did check the position of the rotor in the caliper and its centered exactly so everything appears installed correctly. I did a search on this issue and all I found was to use wheel spacers. Any help or input is welcome.

Thanks

ewh123
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
522 Posts
Summit
 

·
Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
Joined
·
14,785 Posts
If you use a spacer that big you will need to put long competition wheel studs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,706 Posts
I ran into the same thing when I tried to use PBRs with my Halibrand CobraIIIs. In the end I decided I didn't want to deal with the spacer issues and went back to stock GT brakes. Adding spacers will also cause you grief with fender clearance.

Jim.
 

·
Blue Oval Scribe
Joined
·
9,177 Posts
How badly do you want the calipers to say "COBRA"?

Seriously, I've taken several PBR type calipers (stock, Baer, etc.) and ground down the face and some of the strengthening ribs to run different wheel sets, mostly smaller drag wheels. As long as you don't go crazy and get into the main casting you'll be fine. A hand grinder and then some caliper paint will get the job done, OR, you can dissasemble and have a machine shop chuck them up in a bridgeport and machine the face down proper and all nice like.

Just a thought!

HTH...
Mark
 

·
Blues n Brews
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I wouldn"t want to grind down the calipers as I paid over $400 just for the calipers. I'm thinking maybe to go with the Mustang GT brakes on the front instead. I guess there wouldn't be an issue with the rims rubbing the GT calipers. I did place washers on the wheel studs to see how much the wheel would need to be spaced out. This measured .240 inches so a 1/4 to 3/8 spacer would work. I then jacked up the suspension to see how far the tire stuck out beyond the wheelwell lip. It's going to rub when turning the wheels. So it looks like the spacer will not work either. I would hate to grind down the calipers 1/4 of an inch, to me thats quite a bit of material to remove and it may compromize the caliper. So I'll see about returning the calipers and rotors and exchanging them for the GT ones. Thanks for all the input but it seems 13 inch front brakes are not in my future.

ewh123
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,245 Posts
Similar situation for me (13" Wilwoods). Solution, spacer as you describe, and pin drive width control arms, non pin drive wheels. Fits fine, works great.
Good luck,
Arch
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,706 Posts
I'm not sure on this, but I think the complete kits use the same caliper but with an 11" rotor (and different bracket of course) which will clear everything. I know your pain, I bought the 13" cobra stuff and then found myself trying to jerry rig it all to make them fit. For street use I'm perfectly happy with the GT brakes, but the Cobra calipers do look way cooler.

Jim.
 

·
Blues n Brews
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Its kind of a bummer, I put a lot of work into the brake system over the past couple of days and am 95% done and then I discover this problem. I've pulled the rear axle and replaced the drum brakes for disc's, repainted the axle housing, installed tubular upper and lower rear control arms when reinstalling the rear axle, swapped the fox front spindles for SN95 ones, installed a bump steer kit, replaced all the flexable brake lines with stainless flex lines, and have one caliper and rotor mounted and discover the rubbing issue. I guess I should have searched the forum for info before I bought the 13 inch Cobra front brakes. Live and learn I guess. I'll contact the vendor tomorrow and see about returning these for the GT calipers and rotors. I hope they'll take these back.

ewh123
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
779 Posts
Team III

I'm no expert on wheel / brake combos but I thought the Team III Halibrand replicas would clear the 13 inch brakes. If so, you could sell your FF wheels on the forum since they are new and pay a little more to get a set of Team III's from North Racecars. If your heart is set on the 13" brakes it may be an option that you would be most satisfied with in the long run - without compromise. Believe me, it won't be the last thing you'll end up spending more $ on than you originally planned (budgeted) for. Those 13" brakes look great!

Good Luck with whatever you decide to do.
 

·
Blues n Brews
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry I guess I should have said that my roadster is a MKII which I bought already built and am changing to my preference. So the wheels are not new but have almost 3800 miles on them. I've done a bunch to this car, in addition to what I listed in another post I've installed 4x4 headers and stainless sidepipes, chrome roll bar, stainless front and rear bumpers, new carb, rewired it, speedhut gps speedometer and tach, tubular front lower control arms, coil over rear suspension, reran the brake hard lines, carpeted the trunk, installed trunk storage boxes, pulled the engine and regasketed it and painted Ford blue, new oil pan, windshield wipers, and many other items which excape me at the moment. So I am about to the point of being where I want to be with it for a while. My last big improvement this winter was the brakes. So I'm a little hesitant to spend money for new wheels, or new control arms as has been suggested. I've got around $1300 in the front and rear disc brakes and really don't want to spend more to overcome this setback. So I'll see if the GT front brakes will work, and maybe I can work out a return on these and maybe get some money back too! ( with all I've done to this roadster I should have just bought a kit and built it myself )

ewh123
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
Eric
Here is a link that was provided from my friend as he used spacer for the rear. I'm also using them in the back just to poke the wheels out a snitch. These are made to be used on mustangs so they are perfect fit on hub and studs. As mentioned before, anything over a 1/4 of inch will require stud change.

I'm also surprised that the Team III 17" doesn't clear?? What are the spec on the wheels (off set and back space) It should be engraved in the back of the wheel. When i bought my TeamIII it was indicated they would clear big brakes, i could always compare my spec to yours.

See what they say about returning them, i doubt they will take them back if fluid as been in them. If my wheels clear, maybe we could work something out.
T.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...urers_id=&pfrom=5.&pto=&dfrom=&dto=&x=41&y=11
 

·
Blue Oval Scribe
Joined
·
9,177 Posts
The FFR based wheels have the clearance, not sure about other Hali-based replica wheels.

My friend's 3.1 complete kit has the wheel package from FFR and we upgraded to the Cobra/PBR front and it just clears fine.

Another option is to have the wheel's back surface of the spokes machined (again, providing there's enough material) for caliper pad clearance. Many aftermarket wheel companies (Boze, Forgeline, etc.) will do this when making your wheel, you just tell them what brake kit you are using...

HTH...
Mark
 

·
section 8
Joined
·
5,136 Posts
I had a similar issue . Got a good spacer from Baer and used the long wheel studs with a little cut off so the lugs would actually tighten istead of bottoming . Also I don't have a fender clearance issue . Mine is a mk3 with 17x9.5 Halibrands and a 245-45-17 tire Bob
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,853 Posts
I think you have the older PSE wheels. The problem with the spacer is the tire will stick out past the body.

Our team III wheels will clear the calipers no problem. We make them in 9.5 for the rear and 8 for the front in one peice. HTH, Richard.
 

·
Blues n Brews
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I figured out how to make the rims work without rubbing the calipers. I looked at the back of the rims this morning and saw there was a raised lip cast around each opening, which was about 1/8 inch high. I needed about 1/4 inch to make the rims work so this was half of what I needed. So I took a grinder and ground off the lip around the openings. Then I took Mustang Mans advice and ground off the front of the caliper around 3/16 inch. I kept test fitting until I had no rubbing and had around 1/32 inch clearance. So I figured out how to make the rims work with 13 inch brakes ( and no spacers! ). A little black paint on the calipers and they don't look too bad. So I've got the brake system buttoned up and ready to bleed. I'll do that after lunch ( this much thinking makes me hungry ). Thanks for all the input, it was most helpful.

ewh123
 

·
Blue Oval Scribe
Joined
·
9,177 Posts
Glad to hear it worked out for you and you got to keep the better brakes!

Mark
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,706 Posts
X2 what Mark said.

I couldn't relieve the back of my rims, plus they are chromed and I didn't want to cause any peeling issues. Much better solution than spacers and such, IMO. Also you will gain more clearance as the pads wear.

Jim.
 

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
2,612 Posts
I had the same setup on my coupe, and ground the top of the caliper slightly. I did use the Eibach spacers, 25mm, and it worked out great. Did not extend the wheels too much.







Rob
 

·
Blues n Brews
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have the brakes bled and the roadster is ready for a test run. The weather turned crappy here in central Ohio so a road test will have to wait for better weather. When I ground the calipers I had to grind off the word COBRA cast into the outside face of the caliper, but for having the bigger brakes I can live with it. It wasn't really too visible through the wheel openings anyway. I did discover a handy tool for bleeding brakes by yourself. I had one of the car trunk load securing bars, which can be found at most auto stores and department stores. Mine has one end which screws in and out to wedge the bar in the trunk tightly securing a load. I took this bar and screwed it out long enough to place between the drivers seat back and the brake pedal when it was depressed down as far as it would go. I had a container with a small amount of brake fluid in it, placed one end of a clear tube in the container below the fluid level, the other end on the bleeder screw. I then pumped the brake pedal 4 times and then wedged the bar between the seat back and the pedal, holding it down. Then I opened the bleeder screw to bleed the caliper. I repeated this at each wheel caliper until all the air was bled out of the system. The cargo bar really made this a one person job. I had the brakes bled in no time at all ( I listed the way I did this if anyone else wanted to use this method using a cargo bar on the pedal . Probably a wooden dowel rod or 2x2 cut to the proper length would work equally well as the cargo bar). So it looks like the conversion to better brakes was a success after all. Thanks a lot to everyone who chimed in.

ewh123
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top