Factory Five Racing Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
\\\M3
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On the UCAs, the bolts that came from FFR don't look like they'll work. First they look too long, second, they have a shoulder on them that extends far enough down that it looks like it will interfere with the lock nut. Anyone know the correct size bolt if I go out looking for a grade 8 replacement tomorrow?

On the tubular LCAs on both sides, one of the two frame brackets fits very snugly, but the corresponding one on the other side of the arm has a couple centimeters of space between the bushing and the frame mount. Will torquing the bolts down compress the frame bracket, or do I need a spacer of sorts?

Thanks,
Brendan
 

·
Professional Internet Browser
Joined
·
9,945 Posts
The uppers worked fine on my roadster, I am assuming the spec racer is the same setup. I put the bolts in from the top I think and they worked fine. I don't fully understand what problem you are having from a shoulder? Can you post a pic or two?
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
If I remember correctly, the lowers come with a washer to use as a spacer if there is a gap between the bracket and the LCA. I used the FFR upper bolts with no problem.

Ed Reynolds
 

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
63 Posts
Brendan,
I live at the most 15 minutes from you. Come down anytime if you need to see any actual completed results. Brian and Josh say Hi !
 

·
\\\M3
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a feeling I have the wrong bolts for mounting the uppers to the frame. I unfortunately can't post pictures until tomorrow.

The bolt is stainless, and the shoulder (unthreaded portion) of the bolt protrudes about the width of the lock nut, below the flange it should snug against. Because of the shoulder, the nut won't snug up to the frame.

The bolt also seems long, protruding about 1"-2" below the flange the UCA mounts to.

I'll post pictures tomorrow.

Brendan
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
6,546 Posts
You have to use washers to "fatten" up the LCAs to fit correctly. Don't clamp the bolt down and bend the ears.

The Front upper control arms should have 2 black oxide finish bolts for each side and corresponding "oval" lock nuts w/ integral washers.

If you have SS bolts, that's the WRONG stuff.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,393 Posts
Brendan:
It's very important that the LCA flanges remain parallel. You'll need a large washer (FFR furnished) to make up the space so that the inner metal bushing is locked into place before anything else squashes the polyurethane. The way they work is for the poly to turn freely (relatively speaking) on the bronze. As for the UCA bolts, I received black oxide shoulder bolts with metal locking nuts. You're welcome to visit and check out the front suspension if you'd like. The body won't be back on for another week or so.
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
139 Posts
Brendan,
My UCA, driver side, rear mounting nut also hit the frame while the pass. side had plenty of clearance. I just put the bolt in from the bottom with the nut on top. This gave just enough clearance. Hope this helps. Jim
 

·
\\\M3
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On the LCA's do you use any washers on the outside of the mounting flanges up against the bolt head and the nut? I have 8-10 washers that will fit, giving me enough to shim the insides against the LCA or use on the outsides against the nut and bolt head. The nut and bolt heads seem to have pretty wide flanges on them, so I'm assuming these washers are for shimming the inside.

Thanks again, off to find a couple Grade 8 bolts to mount my uppers.

Brendan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,393 Posts
I used 1 washer inside the flanges. You'll see where you need it when you fit the LCA's into position. I also used 1 under the bolt head to keep the end of the bolt from hitting the 2x2 upright. Those big flanged head bolts have a radius fillet under the head, so you'll sometimes need the washer to let the bolt sit flat.

[ October 27, 2002, 10:25 AM: Message edited by: Joe Leone aka Oldguy668 ]
 

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
2,135 Posts
The eight big flat washers are for the coil over shock. Should be a good picture in the manual. Go on the outside of the coil over bracket, two upper, two lower each side. The LCA brackets should tighten down on the LCA, may be a little wide from the factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
690 Posts
Brendan,
The UCA bolts are a critical item. I would not substitute a grade 8 bolt there. Contact FFR and get the proper bolt. Grade 8 is usually too brittle for that type of application. It cannot take the shock and can shatter. It needs to be tough and flexible, not hard and brittle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,393 Posts
Brendan...do not tighten the LCA flanges if doing so will cause them to be out of parallel. FFR includes some of the big washers for that purpose. There are at least 3 threads on this in the past. If you tighten the ears out of parallel, the poly bushings WILL NOT work correctly.
 

·
\\\M3
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the advice everyone.

I have a set of bolts to "mock up" the UCAs until I get the correct ones from FFR.

Looks like I'm going to have to squeeze in 2 washers inside the mounting ears on one side of each LCA to get things snug, 1 washer still leaves too much play.

Brendan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
On this same subject, I failed to shim my right front LCA and I thus bent the tab inward. I've seen all the previous post regarding the shiming after the fact. I figured I'd re-visit and resolve it. Does anyone have a suggestion on a good approach to bending the tab back out. Just looking for someone who has done it and had success. I hope I don't hold the unique status of the only one who has done this. If I could kick myself I would for making such a mistake. Brendan, you're fortunate you know this now. Thanks for any help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
690 Posts
Zoop,
I have not made this mistake, but I have made similar mistakes in the past.

You could take a piece of 1/2" threaded rod and a couple washers, feed the rod through the tabs, putting on a washer and nut as you go, and butt the rod against the vertical chassis member. You can then thread the nut to press against the tab.

You can lock two extra nuts on the rod by jaming them against each other. One of these can then be used to hold the rod while the pressure nut is rotated to work against the tab.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Robert,

Thanks for the great suggestion. It sounds like that approach will allow me to get uniform/even pressure against the tab. Hopefully that will allow me to push it back out pretty even.
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
1,852 Posts
Zoop
Another solution is to screw the zerc fitting in tight apply a greese gun when the bolt is out and push hard. The hydrauic pressure will spread the tabs. Guess how I know this....
TEC
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top