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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi: Couple of questions about the control arms:

1) How can I get a torque wrench on the rear bolt for the upper control arms or do I just wrench it as hard as possible since it is rated 110lb? The F panel seems to get in the way.

2) Is there a rough settiing for the upper control arm adjustments for camber caster etc. for street use? I didn't see any spec in the book so just wondered if I should start with a certain length for the 2 sides of the arms. I have the FFR tubular lower LCAs if that makes any difference.

3) For the LCAs I have washers that take out almost all the spacing between the frame mount ears but maybe less then 1/16" slop still there. Is it OK to crank them to torque with that little play?

Thanks

Now, off to buy a pair of snap ring pliers that I will likely use once for the coilovers . At least they should stay shiny.
 

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Snake Farmer
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10,396 Posts
Could you use a socket extension on the torque wrench, so the F panel isn't in the way?

As to camber, caster, (and toe), basic settings.
You need to complete the front suspension/steering, and then lower the car to the ground, and set your approx. ride height. Using string, tape measure, and a large carpenters square, you should be able to get your settings, including toe, close enough to drive your car to the alignment shop. I was surprised how close I actually manged to get it, using this method.

I can't answer the 3rd question, as I didn't have any play issues..
 

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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Could you use a socket extension on the torque wrench, so the F panel isn't in the way?

As to camber, caster, (and toe), basic settings.
You need to complete the front suspension/steering, and then lower the car to the ground, and set your approx. ride height. Using string, tape measure, and a large carpenters square, you should be able to get your settings, including toe, close enough to drive your car to the alignment shop. I was surprised how close I actually manged to get it, using this method.

I can't answer the 3rd question, as I didn't have any play issues..
Thanks Bill. I thought you really weren't supposed to use extensions with a torque wrench? How did you tighten yours?
You really didn't have any gaps at the LCA mounts? Lucky. I have read several threads that make it sound like that is normal with the FFR LCAs. Am I wrong?
 

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Unconventional Builder
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5,498 Posts
Could you use a socket extension on the torque wrench, so the F panel isn't in the way?
Take F panels off they will continue to be in the way for other steps. If you want them there use a few screws or cleckos to keep them removable
 

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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Take F panels off they will continue to be in the way for other steps. If you want them there use a few screws or cleckos to keep them removable
Too late unless I drill all the rivets and peel the silicone. The manual and another builder led me to believe that is was fine to permanently install them. Guess I'll just have to wrench those rear bolts down hard and hope that I manage 110lb.
 

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Registered
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As to you question #3 yes 1/16 is fine just make sure you have the same number of washers in front of the LCA on each side as this helps keep both LCA's at the same location in the frame and the 1/16 crush is (theoretically) shared equally by both sides. A straight extension is fine because it transfers the same torque as no extension. If you have to use a universal to get clearance use two and make sure the angle on each one is the same IE align the front one with the center line of the bolt and the one on the Torque wrench the same so that both universals are parallel.
HTH
CB
 

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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As to you question #3 yes 1/16 is fine just make sure you have the same number of washers in front of the LCA on each side as this helps keep both LCA's at the same location in the frame and the 1/16 crush is (theoretically) shared equally by both sides.


Well this wasn't really possible. I'm sure the washers are included in the kit to compensate for the inherrent inaccuracies of welding those ears on. On the driver side the front part of the LCA fit perfectly so there is no movement back and forth and no need for washers. That means the rear part will not move at all so washers/shims only go where they fit and it wasn't centered.
Anyway I just shimmed gaps as close as possible to not bend any ears and torqued to bolts and they both move freely so I am assuming this should be OK.


On another not those spacers for the Koni shock ,mounts were definitley not going to fit on one side so I had to file them down to size. I am beginning to understand that there is a lot more to this than just bolting together.
 

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Unconventional Builder
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On another note those spacers for the Koni shock ,mounts were definitley not going to fit on one side so I had to file them down to size. I am beginning to understand that there is a lot more to this than just bolting together.
Ha, I too thought I was going to be bolting this car together. Be very careful of deviating from the standard build, mods will kill your build time. Well worth it but one mod can require a lot of fixing of related parts.

Welcome to "building a car" not assembling a kit:evil:
 
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