[Ozona]

I've been spending some quality time with FFR 3478's frame. I chopped off the rear coil spring perches with a sawzall, and smoothed out the welds that will be visible with the hood open.

Some observations:

1.) Sandblasting with a small sandblaster is best left for smaller tasks. Cleaning up the sand is a real pain.

2.) Craftsman 3" "loop" style discs on a air grinder are the way to go. (Cut off tool without the cut off part.) I had the best luck with the "Medium" discs. The 120 grit "Fine" discs just weren't agressive enough and loaded up and wore out. I used them to finish off the areas after the medium grit discs.

3.) There was VERY little (nearly zero) welding spatter on the frame.

4.) A little marine clean goes a LONG way. You do NOT need the gallon size unless you want to have lots for later.

5.) WEAR GLOVES if you use the stuff, it's SUPER strong, even diluted 1:1 with water. It WILL eat the skin off your hands.

It's off to use "Metal Ready" today, then POR 15 gray and a Chassis Coat Black top coat.

Ozona

 

[ORANGE CRUSH]

Ozona all this time you have had to read and fun everybody and you still didn't wear you gloves with that stuff My hands burned for two days and then got real dry and shinny before pealing like a snake sheds its skin. Make sure you get good coverage with the metal prep...and wipe the stuff off while rinseing. Have fun!!!
Mike

[ August 04, 2002, 01:09 PM: Message edited by: ORANGE CRUSH ]

 

[Ozona]

I *did* read the bottle on the Marine Clean.

It didn't say something like, "Will DEFINITELY kick your A$$." (I like to make fun of myself, too.)

My hands didn't come with instructions..and sometimes I'm not bright enough to operate them. LoL

Did the metal ready part this morning:

I can't believe what a mess that metal ready stuff makes. Sure works well though.

Metal Ready steps:

1.) Put on gloves. (DUH)
2.) Apply and keep wet with Metal Ready for 10 - 15 minutes.
3.) Flip er up on both sides and get all the nooks & crannies.
4.) Rinse off with water, you have to kind of rub the "goo" off with your gloved hands while rinsing.

Used maybe 1/4 gallon of marine clean and nearly half a gallon of metal ready. Maybe overkill on the metal ready, but it's hot and I wanted to follow the 10 - 15 minute "wet time" directions.

Ozona w/ raw hands.

[ August 04, 2002, 01:55 PM: Message edited by: Ozona ]

 

[Rob]

I have to ask.... "metal ready" whats it used for?

 

[oldguy668]

One little tip for you:
Make cardboard templates of all the aluminum panels that will need sound or heat insulation. It's a heck of a lot easier to do them before all the maetal gets attached.

 

[ORANGE CRUSH]

Or you could use the carpet pieces as templates.

Ozona I meant the postings...I know the damn directions didn't say a thing about gloves. Wipe her down real good while rinseing buddy, you will be much happier with the finish of the paint.
Wal-mart sells a little foam roller and the package doubles as a paint tray....covers a lot really fast. What color por are you using? DON'T get that stuff on ya it's a real pita to get off, but if you do a real stiff brush and bleach will take it off ( feels real good on those raw
hands Hope it comes out nice for ya!
Mike

[ August 04, 2002, 03:12 PM: Message edited by: ORANGE CRUSH ]

 

[Cobra3657]

What happened to your trunk hoop?! (The 3/4" tube that curves along the top of the trunk.)

 

[Rob]

I have to ask.... "metal ready" whats it used for?

[ August 05, 2002, 12:54 PM: Message edited by: Rob ]

 

[Horizon200]

Rob,
Metal Ready etches the metal so the paint will adhere better.

 

[Rob]

THought so thank you very much...... was wondering if there is any type of "filler" to use to fill little irregularities in the metal... as in little pits.... no not a cobra frame.... something else im working on!

THanks

Rgds

Rob

 

[Gary Martin]

Ozona
I tried Classic Black Top Coat on little of my frame and was disappointed,very flat black. Reordered glossy (had glossy POR15 base) and just top coated the area exposed around the engine, etc. You know what you like, but Classic did not look like the catalog discription to me.
Man that stuff is tough I've banged on it, no chips or scratches yet.

Good luck,
Gary

 

[Horizon200]

Not sure on that Rob. Maybe streetrod painter can help? He seems to be a wiz on all things involving fit & finish.

 

[Uraeus]

Rob;
Eastwood sells some sort of metal filler.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe

Maybe this would work for you.

I used some of my extra Marine Clean to remove oil from my drive way. It just keeps on cleaning.

 

[Ozona]

Yup - no trunk hoop.

I haven't seen the hidden trunk hinges yet, but there are holes drilled where the cross bar would have been by Tristate.

I'll have the trunk late this week, then all will be clear.

Gary:

Thanks for the heads up on the POR Chassis Coat. I'm more interested in a "Frame" or chassis look, not glossy. Maybe I'm nuts.

I thought about glossy, thought about silver, and came back to the "chassis" color.

We'll see how long I stay stuck to that idea.

Ozona