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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know any of the specs on the 33 frame construction? Seems like FF keeps a tight lip on exactly what these frames are made of. Im guessing the roll bar is 1 1/2 DOM .120 but the square tubing is just mild 1010 steel? Do they make square DOM? Suspension parts maybe DOM?

From what I've gathered from reading.

arm tubing it is 0.125 wall, with a 1.0 in. outer diameter (i'm guessing DOM?)
all rounds are .120 , I wonder if all rounds DOM? what sizes are they ?
1.5 and 1 or even smaller?

all squares are .090 or .095 largest 1.5 ? maybe 1010 spec?

Just curious what you get for the money before I buy.
 

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Cut and pasted from the email they sent me when I just asked:

"here are some of the various tubing sizes used on the ’33 chassis (all are mild steel):
o ¾” Square: 0.049” wall thickness
o 1” Square: 0.083” wall thickness
o 1.5” Square: 0.095” wall thickness
o 0.75” Round: 0.125” wall thickness, DOM tube
o 1.5” Round: 0.120” wall thickness, DOM tube"

I've been able to match up all of it as fairly extensive fabrication detailed on my build page. --i
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for that info In33anity. I already ran across your build thread and missed it somehow. Great Idea by the way you are going to have 1 of 1.

Here is what I have in mind. Buy a FF stage 1 frame and build this around it. I found this picture on the
web. I did not make it. I like the front but dont care for the rear so much and would also like to make it a roadster.



Im trying to figure out what the dimensions of the frame are to see if I can make it work. If not I will attempt to build the frame myself.

I found this info while searching and do not know how accurate it is.





It seems the 31" dimension does not seem to scale accurately. I come up with 20.5 inches. Can someone verify this for me? The other dimensions seem to scale correctly according to this drawing.

 

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The FF chassis is very specific to the car especially at suspension points.If you are going to build a body from scratch around the FF chassis it might be the way to go. If the body is already made you are going to have way too much work getting everything to fit. I would go to chassis works and get a generic kit and fit it. or build your own using the FF as a basic guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would look at the 818 but I all ready have the drive train from a mustang and the 818 is mid engine. The 33 is real close to what I want and I really like how it is engineered. It's hard to beat. If I build my own I will definitely copy a lot of the design. Can anyone verify the 31" figure?
 

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Not to burst your bubble here ..... but what you are attempting to do here not only requires some major CAD design effort but probably about $300k in finances. Surface plates, clay modeling, etc. ( to do it right )

I applaud your enthusiasm but when changing anything with these cars results in a "domino effect" , even with sticking with the basic design concept. This in turn equates to a exponential increase in financial expenditure.

JMHO ................
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I disagree. A lot can be learned from old school craftsmen who are on the forums like

LocostUSA.com • Index page

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and from companies who have invested in CAD development and industrial production techniques like FF has. A one off project like the one below can be done by emulating proven engineering and using creative coach building skills.

A space frame can be constructed with a mig welder, and a plasma torch and about $500 worth of steel. Granted It might not come out as straight as a ff frame without the tooling but I would bet you probably would not notice in the finished product. Reverse engineering.



The body. Not that I have the skills of these people yet but take a look at
John Glover, Ron Covell, Ron Fornier and Kent White alias the Tin Man. They don't use CAD, Surface plates, clay modeling, and I don't think you would say their work isn't right. A body buck, english wheel, planishing hammers, basic body tools and mad skills are all that are needed. I still have my bubble. I don't plan using this for mass production, just a personal project.

Roadster Body Part 2 - YouTube
 

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It seems the 31" dimension does not seem to scale accurately. I come up with 20.5 inches. Can someone verify this for me? The other dimensions seem to scale correctly according to this drawing.
Your scaling is right on, my frame measures 20 1/2 from the bottom of the frame to the point where the frame angles back toward the center.
 

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My plasma cutter is a great tool for steel, however I have never used it to cut tubing during construction unless I had a mistake to cut out. How do you use it to cut tubing ?. I am hoping to learn here. Thanks Glenn
 

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have you looked into licensing issues? it is my undertansing that some states are very difficult to certify in if your frame is homedesigned and built. At least the F5R frame has a certificate. With enough time and/or money you can build anything, but based on my limited mods to the 33, the amount of both time and money requied to change anything is much more than it first appears.

All that being said, let us know how your project progresses.
 

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hybrid

have you looked into licensing issues? it is my undertansing that some states are very difficult to certify in if your frame is homedesigned and built. At least the F5R frame has a certificate. .
I gave serious thought to buying the 33 frame and cutting the bottom out of a Hemi Dart. That way I would have had the vin already and no fiberglass to deal with and all the parts are available including the right wiring harness etc. I always liked the look of that body but I decided I didn't have the skills to do that kind of a project. Someone has done a truck already on the 33 chassis but I really want to see a sedan delivery done on one.
DB
Hemi33
 

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Granted It might not come out as straight as a ff frame
The frame may be the straightest part of any FF car.. the 33 body is so far out of square and different from side to side, you couldn't do worse if you tried...

I think you'd be better off building your own frame, you could stretch it a little here and there to give yourself more access to items like the foot pedals, dash wiring, A/C ducting, fuel tank.... and make it a bit wider at the cowl so you didn't have one foot tripping over the other in the pedalbox...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
BrentM, Thats awesome man, i was hoping to hear that.

Glenn Somers, sorry, i use a steel band saw for cutting my tube steel and the plasma for cutting plate.

jmann, I have a leftover project where I had a 34 ford truck inspected and state VIN issued and registered. Sold the truck and still have the registration and vin plate. No title needed in my state to put on road. So this may be an option if it comes out close in form to a 34 model A.

Buck70 sounds doable. Weight might be an issue since the hot rod frame was made for a light fiberglass body. You might want to make sure the track width and length etc.. line up

Daves Restoration, All good advice, how much wider would you recommend? I've never even sat in one. Is the tranny tunnel to wide? I plan on using a tremec 3550 with mechanical clutch. I know that takes up quite a bit of room. Any more short comings I might not be aware of?
 

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I bought the FF 33 just to see how they did the chassis, and maybe use it in another project. I was building a 34 with a c-6 drivetrain and saw the FF 33 and thought I could put it together then use the basic plans to build a third car. The chassis IS for their 33 hot rod, and if someone were to put it in another car it would be a gome, however the chassis itself is a great design and can be used as a model for another.the permiter rails are a good starting point and everything else would have to be made to fit the different body. I made a body lift with screw jacks on all 4 corners so I could raise and lower the body as I was making the conventional frame to fit the c-6 to the 34. If I tried to put that FF frame in there and make it fit rather than building a custom frame I would be nuts. Check my build site
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Making some head way. Could I get someone to verify the width at the rear is 49" just behind the seat and the dash width is 42" before I cut the cross members? How is the foot box on these cars? is there enough room or should I make it wider?










 

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Are you planning on using the factory Five body on this project? If so now is the time to get it and everything will come together much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Are you planning on using the factory Five body on this project? If so now is the time to get it and everything will come together much easier.

No, I'm not planning on using the body. I'm probably going to make that too. I haven't decided on what material to use. Glass, steel or aluminum. I want it to look similar to the 3d art picture that I posted earlier in this thread. I no longer need the measurements for the width. I went with what my drawing converted to.

 

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For some reason that truss looks tall to me. Maybe its the picture angle. How tall is that section you made? Not the whole thing just the truss part. Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For some reason that truss looks tall to me. Maybe its the picture angle. How tall is that section you made? Not the whole thing just the truss part. Glenn
I've have 10.25 from the bottom of the truss to the top of the lowest part. You wouldn't happen to have a measurement for the inner truss would you? By my calculation I came up with 5"
 
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