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FFCobra Craftsman
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Ford stainless coated headers are contacting the oil sensor on the driver side. It seems to be very slight, and grinding away some of the "flair" at the base of the sensor will do it I think. Is it OK to do this?

Also, there won't be more than 1/8" of space between the sensor and the header. Is this a problem? More importantly, why is it contacting at all? I havn't heard others complaining of this.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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how about go to home depot and but a $1.00 90 degree elbow to connect the sender.

Mike

I have the same headers, are you going to coat yours.
 

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Yep I had to do the Home Depot fix to.
Mike
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys, this is all new to me and I didn't know it was that common a fitting. Off to Home Depot I go.

Mike, I got them coated from Mike Forte. The price diff between that and having a set of Mac shortys done was about the same, and you get the Ford quality header, in stainless. I do think the coating would be prettier if done third party, since they have kind of a crinkly texture from Ford but my engine bay is being built to drive. It only has to look good enough not to embarass me.
 

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Another option. I shortened the piece that screws into the block. There are three cuts involved and a little welding. Then drill and tap.

I guess that is why this project is taking sooooo long.

Mike.
 

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F.Y.I. Ford Racing headers are coated by Jet Hot.

Olli
 

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I too did the Home Depot method and just went back to the stock Ford unit. I was sick of oil leaks. My sender is very close to the header now as well. This could be a nice addition to Mike Everson's product line - a shorter oil pressure sender extension.

There was a post a few weeks ago regarding this same issue. DV advised against using any of the brass fittings. I believe he wrote it wasn't if the brass will fail, it is when. At the Spring Fling he had to fix someone's car when their extension fell apart.
 

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CAUTION! I helped Frank and Sons after their brass oil pressure sender fitting failed coming home from an event last month. I hope Frank chimes in here, as I don't remember the gory details, but the brass pipe they used to replace the stock sender pipe broke off inside the block, lots of oil pumped out of the engine, and it looked like a tow-in until Doug Huey created a great fix with parts from a local hardware store. Maybe you're OK if you just put a short elbow fitting at the end of the stock hex-shaped pipe that goes into the engine, but DON'T thread a brass pipe into the engine and stick your sender at the end of it!
 

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This is a real common problem in SBF's. Has been ever since the 260 came out. The factory piece is aluminum, and often cracks. It if the block or extender isn't threaded just right, you can't clock the sender correctly without overtightening and breaking the stub, or leaving it loose enough to leak.

I've solved the problem before with -6 AN fittings and flexible hose. I usually use a large padded clamp and attach the sender to an oil pan bolt. You can mount it anywhere, but if you mount it below the port the lines and sender will not drain out when the engine is off. That gives you an immediate pressure reading without waiting for the hose/sender to fill. It's a little expensive. But it works every time and lasts forever.

If you're using a remote oil filter mount, you can always mount the sender some where between the oil filter and the block. It's a lot easier and somewhat cheaper. The Canton filter mount even has a threaded port for a pressure sender or temp sender.
 

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I used a steel Weatherhead fitting #c3359x4 which is a 1/4"MNPT x FNPT 45 deg street elbow. I ended up adding a small extension to this fitting so it placed the sending unit in a location that I could get to it if I needed. The extension part is Weatherhead #c3209x4x4. Both these fittings are plated steel that I got at an industrial hose supply house.

Dan
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Actually, I was just going to put a 90 degree elbow ON the extension tube that's already there, making the sender face forward. That would put about an inch between the header and sender.
 

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i did the little elbow at the end of the sender thingy fix. i was told to use brass and not steel. its been fine since (about a year since)

-james

[ September 24, 2002, 08:57 PM: Message edited by: Ophitoxaemia ]
 

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Advil,
thats what i did

Mike
 
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