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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok. I do not know what this fluid is? Its reddish pink? It does not smell like anything? It's a little oily but does not feel like oil.

Lol I had my wife smell a paper towel with the fluid on it and she said it was fuel. I cant smell it for some reason in the garage. In the house I guess sit does.

Maybe pink coolant?

I cleaned it up, try to start the car again and it would not. The fluid was back.

Sounded to me like the battery is dead. I tried to jump it. When I when to attach the the cables they sparked and got hot? That's never happened to me.

So two problems I think

1. Electric maybe ground. I several ground points through out the car.

2. Coolant leak in the upper end. Head?

Maybe not may just too much fuel to the carbs which I already knew. Agreed?

Jason
 

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Don't try to turn it over again before you pull the spark plugs just in case it is hydraulically locked! Pull the dipstick and see if the oil level has come up. Has the coolant level gone down?
Do you have power steering? If you do where is the pump/reservoir? That looks like either pink coolant or ATF to me. Definitely not fuel unless you live on a farm and are burning marked gas in your car.
 

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Snake Farmer
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So did the jumper cables get hot, when you first attached them to the battery? Or only after cranking, or trying to crank the engine for awhile? Did the engine even turn over? If it spun, but did not fire, the engine is not hydraulic-ed. If the cables were hot after cranking the engine for time, that wouldn't be an issue, as the starter draws a lot of amps. Likewise, even if the starter didn't crank the engine, because the engine is hydraulic-ed, there is still a high amp draw, probably even more, if the starter isn't turning..
"Maybe pink coolant?"-Easy to check if your coolant is the pink stuff or not. Just remove the filler cap, or check your overflow bottle..
Some of the fuel stabilizers are red, did you add any this fall? No signature showing, if you have a carb, or EFI engine. If carbed there is always a chance it has developed a leak. I could see that re-appearing while attempting to start, more so than coolant. Would be no pressure to speak of on the coolant system, if the engine was cold. Hopefully it's not a stuck float, but you should be able to easily smell fuel in the crankcase oil, if that was the case..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So did the jumper cables get hot, when you first attached them to the battery? Or only after cranking, or trying to crank the engine for awhile?

After a few

Did the engine even turn over? If it spun, but did not fire, the engine is not hydraulic-ed.

It want to turn but did not like the battery died.

If the cables were hot after cranking the engine for time, that wouldn't be an issue, as the starter draws a lot of amps. Likewise, even if the starter didn't crank the engine, because the engine is hydraulic-ed, there is still a high amp draw, probably even more, if the starter isn't turning..

Ok.

"Maybe pink coolant?"-Easy to check if your coolant is the pink stuff or not. Just remove the filler cap, or check your overflow bottle..

I would say it the coolant it looks like it in the fill.

Some of the fuel stabilizers are red, did you add any this fall?

No

if you have a carb, or EFI engine. If carbed there is always a chance it has developed a leak. I could see that re-appearing while attempting to start, more so than coolant. Would be no pressure to speak of on the coolant system, if the engine was cold.

It a carb. I just checked and there was fluid there and I have not tried to start it.

Hopefully it's not a stuck float, but you should be able to easily smell fuel in the crankcase oil, if that was the case..
It is carburated

Fuel smell is strong when it did start up.

Hard to start initially after sitting.

Just looking at it it looks like is linking between the manifold and heads on the passenger side.
 

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Snake Farmer
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You mention you have several grounds, presumably from the block to the frame, you have at least two decent ones? It's common to run a ground strap from a starter mounting bolt to the frame, to ensure the starter is well grounded.Bad grounds are often the issue with starter problems. If the grounding is sufficient, and the engine didn't even turn one revolution, with the jump, it could be worth bench testing the starter.

To test for a possible hydraulic issue, pull the plugs and try spinning the engine, by hand. If fluid squirts out any of the plug holes, this may be the problem. As I mentioned if it was a bad carb float flooding the cylinders, your oil will smell strongly of gas already.
If it's coolant, your oil may look milky. That could indicate a head gasket problem..
You could borrow a coolant system pressure tester. Some places have a tool loan program, if none of your buddy's have one. It's a hand pump that applies pressure to the coolant system.to check for leaks, and if the system is holding pressure.
The fact that this liquid appeared after you already cleaned it up, and yet the engine hasn't run since then, may mean it's as simple as a leak at coolant hose, a sender, IE water temp, or possibly a fan switch not tightened properly. I have no idea what manifold you have, so this may not be the case.

A fuel smell on start up, isn't that uncommon on a carbed vehicle. They often run rich for a few minutes till the automatic choke opens up. It may need adjusting though, if it's causing it be overly rich. Could be part of the hard starting issue as well. There can also be a bit of un-burned fuel that seeped into the manifold, when the engine was last shut off hot.

I doubt the two issues are related, (leak/not starting, so just work on one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ac Bill

Ok I will recheck the grounds.

I will pull the plugs as someone else said and hand crank it.

The oil smells fine and looks clear.

Yes I believe the fuel just not getting burned. Needs adjusting.

My take away.

1. I believe I have a bad ground somewhere. I bought a new negative battery cable because the FFR supplied cable was too lose on the battery terminal. So maybe that's it.

If it's not grounded properly then

A. The cables would get hot. It would be hard to jump.

B. The car would have issues starting like the battery is dead.

????

2. Coolant leak somewhere between and around the manifold and head seals.

3. Fuel smell is typical most likely running too rich.

Hopefully fix ground issues charge the battery and the car will start.

Jason
 

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It is carburated

Fuel smell is strong when it did start up.

Hard to start initially after sitting.

Just looking at it it looks like is linking between the manifold and heads on the passenger side.
I had an issue with a loose bowl check screw which filled up my manifold with gas.
I was mortified as the car was running!
Check the float screw or the connections to your carb.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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If you're running a heater, make sure the fitting in the manifold is tight. Ages ago, it was about 1/4 turn too loose and I had a coolant leak from there.

Depending on which intake gaskets you have, it could be leaking from the water front or rear port. Use the felpro steel core intake gaskets...not the cheap print-o-seal type...those are known to cause issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After thinking about it I figure I should make sure the manifold was torqued down all the way, especially since I had someone else base tune the engine. Hopefully they would not have messed with the bolts. But you never know. I did use a sealer around the coolant areas.

With that said I got a regular ratched and tried to tighten one. It was pretty lose. I remember edlebrock suggesting a torque spec as not to brake it or damage the finish. And that was the spec I used. I firmly torqued all the bolts with the ratchet. They were all about the same to tighten. I think that was all clear explaination.

I believe the manifold was not torqued down enough and causing seepage and pooling. After I tightened it there was no more pooling.

To answer another issue.

I hand cranked the engine and it turned turned just as it always has. No binding no issues.

There for I'm going to see if it's an electric issue as oppose to a engine lock issue.

There for I'm going to replace the ground and check the other grounds. I wanted to replace the battery too. See if the engine starts again.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you're running a heater, make sure the fitting in the manifold is tight. Ages ago, it was about 1/4 turn too loose and I had a coolant leak from there.

Depending on which intake gaskets you have, it could be leaking from the water front or rear port. Use the felpro steel core intake gaskets...not the cheap print-o-seal type...those are known to cause issues.
I do not have a heater.

I did use quality Gaskets. I did not cheap on any of the engine I bought as best quality as i knew of available to me.

Jason
 

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Jason, I urge you not to tighten intake bolts by feel. The Windsor intake has a very low spec, only 25 ft. lb. and must be done in a specific sequence. Over torquing or not following the proper pattern can do more harm than good.

Jeff
 

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When retorquing bolts it is advisable to loosen the bolt first, just slightly, then apply the specified torque. Do one at a time in the required pattern. Retorque gently and slowly...sneak up on it...don't jerk it or shock it...use a digital or clicker type, preferably a 3/8" drive...forget the beam type....just my 2 cents...check me on this..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
When retorquing bolts it is advisable to loosen the bolt first, just slightly, then apply the specified torque. Do one at a time in the required pattern. Retorque gently and slowly...sneak up on it...don't jerk it or shock it...use a digital or clicker type, preferably a 3/8" drive...forget the beam type....just my 2 cents...check me on this..
Ok thank you I will
 

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I also had a little coolant weep out of the intake manifold gaskets when the motor was new. Just keep re-torqueing the bolts after a few heat cycles and it will eventually stop. May take a few time. As Jeff said use a torque wrench and to the specs and sequence.
 
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