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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone has scraped the rivet on mounting tabs for the front brakes and drilled a hole in the F panel for the flex to hard line transition. I have a MarkIV complete kit with wilwood brakes. I'm trying to do a clean as possible build and hide as much hardware as possible but don't want to create a unforeseen problem. Any feedback would be appreciated.
 

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i think the panel would flex to much and tear out over time . but i imagine someones come up with something
 

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I guess I do not know what you mean by as clean as possible. The flex line needs to be supported as this get quite a bit of movement. That is the purpose of the rivet in bracket. It's hardly visible in a completed car.

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Discussion Starter #4
That kind of clean, beautiful plumbing job. I've been laying out where to run my lines but haven't decided. Any other pictures of how you ran your lines would be appreciated. I'm not sure where I'm going to bring them into the master cylinders, I'm using a Wilwood set up.
 

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That kind of clean, beautiful plumbing job. I've been laying out where to run my lines but haven't decided. Any other pictures of how you ran your lines would be appreciated. I'm not sure where I'm going to bring them into the master cylinders, I'm using a Wilwood set up.
These are all I could find for now. FYI, the red clamps were replaced later.

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks like art to me, I'm sure others agree. I never thought of running the lines in from the outside of the DS foot box. I have a few questions if you could answer: How did you mount the T's just after the flex line to the frame, how far down are the tops of the reservoir from the 3/4 tube (I need to mount a triple, brakes and clutch, but didn't want to wait to test fit the body for clearance), did you tap the 3/4 to mount the clamps or use rivnuts, and did you make the mounting blocks or purchase them. Sorry for all the questions, I appreciate anything you can provide.
 

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The brake line T's are not mounted. They are supported with line clamps on the stainless brake lines. I do not think there is any reason to mount or support them further.

The support for the triple reservoir are actually two pieces of sheet metal sandwiched together. One has a small 90 degree bend and is mounted underneath the 3/4" tube with rivnuts and the second is a flat piece mounted to the back of the 3/4" frame tube with rivets.

I will try and find a better photo for the reservoirs. I believe that mine are mounted to where the caps are flush with the top of the frame 3/4" tube and parallel to the ground. Make sure the reservoirs are far enough back to clear the hood struts. I think I only have about 2.5" clear between the reservoirs and the front of the drivers footbox.

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Marcel and my brother have the same 15th anniversary kits. Marcel chose to use stainless for all his tubing and it really is art. It's also a much harder tubing to bend and is quite pricy. So here is an alternative if you choose to use the supplied brake and fuel tubing, as I did. I was able to run the entire car without ANY custom tube cuts and flares.

Here's the pedal box hardline connections for the front and rear brakes. I drilled a 1/2" hole at the top of the footbox for the front line to pass through.


The line runs under the 3/4" tube to the front where it curls down to the front brake T:


The second length is used for the passenger front. I could have tried going across on the front suspension x-member but with other items being mounted to the x-member I chose the simpler path, in alignment with the build manual.:


So with 2 standard 60" pieces of tubing the front brakes have hardlines.

continued for rear setup...

:)
 

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...hard line install continued...

If you follow the line out of the top of the footbox from the previous post, the rear hardline snakes down the inside of the footbox and out the bottom, in front of the crash bar.



... it was later hidden behind a flap of carpet:


Once the hardline exits the footbox, it continues until it meets a junction. I offset the junction from the frame for easy access to the junction with tools for maintenance. It was just really hard to twist the fitting if it was right next to the frame. It's not pretty, but function over form in this case:


After the junction it continues along the 4" tube until the end, where pivots and comes up to the last "T":



Since the kit only came with 4 60" tubes I purchased another from the local parts store for the last run. This next bit is the only unorthodox run, which you might want to consider an alternative to; This car has a hidden battery box in the trunk. Part of that setup is an additional 3/4 square tube that is run across the upper shelf of the trunk, anchored from the bottom. So I ran my hardline across the chassis riveted to that 3/4" tube. Here's a shot of the hardline before I added the tube:


So with 5 standard pieces of hardline, 4 of which com with the kit, you can plumb the brakes.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you for the pictures, I was thinking about running my rear line down the inside if the foot box also.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
CDXXVII, I've been looking everywhere for stainless or aluminum T's for the front and rear flex to hard lines and haven't been able to find them, I don't want to use brass. Do you recall where you got them?
 

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Pretty sure mine are the brass T's. I just painted them.

As far as the the flex lines, mine came with the kit.

Here is a great resource I used for all my stainless tube and fittings.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you onec again for the follow up, that's what I thought I may have to do. I must ask since I'm thoroughly impressed with your build, did you do anything to hide the engine bay wiring and heater plumbing if you have a heater? I've been kicking around several ideas but can decide. Any in put would be appreciated.
 
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