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Discussion Starter #161 (Edited)
Rear hard brake lines installed today. I ran it down the inside of the pedal box as some have recommended. Required cutting a portion of the footbox front and floor to get the line out. I decided to go the the RT gas pedal with the Forte mechanical linkage. This removes the stock pedal and cable from possibly interfering with the brake line. Also ordered my Moser from forte along with dual CNC reservoirs and bleeder cap. Apparently CNC is out of business according to Mike, so these double and triple reservoirs are gone once they sell out.

I also removed the pan hard bar in preparation for the rear end installation and removed all my previously cleco'd panels in the rear cockpit and trunk.

Anyone running a cable clutch? Does the cable attach to the footbox wall with just one screw/ bolt? Instructions call for a #6 screw but I'd feel more comfortable with a more substantial bolt/ washer/ nut combo
 

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Discussion Starter #162
rear brake calipers

I also emailed Jay from FFR. My rear calipers have been on back order since I received my kit in Jan. Apparently, the vendor they were working with who provided the rear calipers for the rear brake kit (not wilwood) was supposed to have a shipment in at the end of 2018. They missed that shipment and have stopped taking FFR's phone calls. FFR is working with a new vendor now and they hope to have a product in the next month or so. The problem is that they need to make the brackets fit both 11.65" and 13" rotors, so once they get a sample caliper in, they need a couple of months to mock up new brackets and manufacture them. So they offered me a few options: 1) wait on new calipers and brackets to arrive, 2) send out 87-88' Tbird turbo couple calipers and brackets, but I would need to grind off the part of the bracket that interferes w/ the rotors, or 3) get a full refund on the rear brake kit and source my own rear calipers.

Any thoughts/suggestions? I wasn't sure how the FFR rear brake kit calipers were different from the Tbird calipers. Do the pads sent to me fit ? Do the brackets fit the existing caliper axle brackets?
 

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Discussion Starter #165
That stinks. I think I am in the same boat. What do you think is your best course of action?
I'm asking FFR what brakes are supposed to come w/ the kit. I was thinking of going with the Tbird calipers if they'll send me the modified bracket with it. The other option is waiting a few more months. I'm in no hurry and can work on other parts while I'm waiting on the calipers.
 

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Obviously they are having supplier problems so just take the FFR credit then contact Richard Oben (the originator of the offset caliper mounting brackets for the Fox width rear end) at North Racecars for his entire rear brake package which includes all the same stuff---brackets, calipers, rotors, brake cables, hardware, etc.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Rear end from Forte scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Excited to get back in the build. My mechanical throttle linkage and dual CNC reservoir are also with the rear end. Cleaning up transmission while I wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Moser rear end unpacked from Forte. They were able to modify and weld the banana bracket on for me and even painted the welds and caliper brackets. Getting ready to assemble rear suspension and add gear fluid.
 

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Great!
JR
 

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All I can share is my one time experience.

Bolting this and the 3 link was the most satisfying for me so far.

I used a transmission Jack to hold the rear end in place. This made a huge difference.

I'm sure it's so much easier to put the breaks on first but I dont see why you would be blocked if you had to do it after.

Also I did not have gear fluid and stabilizer. It's easier to do that before but you can easily do it after too.

Cant wait to see it all together to me that was a big step.
 

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Discussion Starter #173
Starting to assemble rear end. Is it normal for the Moser end to only have one fill hole and no drain hole? My diff cover is solid chrome with no drain hole. Do I have to siphon or pump fluid out of the single hole when the time comes?

Mocking up the rear end. Please let me know if you see something amiss before I torque everything down. On my PS the holes for the shock bolt was off quite a bit and I had to drill it out.

Also I assume grease fittings point down on the control arms, right? Seems easier to reach them later with them pointed down.
 

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Starting to assemble rear end. Is it normal for the Moser end to only have one fill hole and no drain hole? My diff cover is solid chrome with no drain hole. Do I have to siphon or pump fluid out of the single hole when the time comes?

When I called Moser that is what the tech said. One fill hole with a screw plug on the passenger side you use a allan wrench to open. You also have a vent on the top DS.

I have not thought about emptying it. Probally have to pull the cover. Not sure.

I did not have any problems lining everything up. The holes were tight I did file them out a little.

I used Lucas Gear oil from autozone and stabilizer from summit. I have been saying stabilizer I guess modifier. Ford racing it stinks to high heaven. Lol

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #175
I cut down a pretty thick steel bracket that used to be a computer bracket to use as a brake reservoir bracket. (It was getting thrown away at my work, so I repurposed it! ) I was going to attach it under the 3/4"tube in front of the firewall. Any reason I couldn't attach it to the top of the tube? Wasn't sure the clearance from the body in this location. Bracket is around 1/8"thick
 

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...I was going to attach it under the 3/4"tube in front of the firewall. Any reason I couldn't attach it to the top of the tube?...
Go under. If you put it on top it will interfere with the flange around the hood opening.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Go under. If you put it on top it will interfere with the flange around the hood opening.

Jeff
how high should I have the tops of my reservoirs to avoid interference? level with the top of the 3/4" tube? or below this?
I know that the fluid level needs to be higher than the MCs. I didn't know if there would be interference down the road with the pressure bleeder cap. it would be nice to be be able to replace the brake fluid without removing the body.
 

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how high should I have the tops of my reservoirs to avoid interference? level with the top of the 3/4" tube? or below this?
I know that the fluid level needs to be higher than the MCs. I didn't know if there would be interference down the road with the pressure bleeder cap. it would be nice to be be able to replace the brake fluid without removing the body.
Removing the body? What makes you think you'd need to remove the body to replace fluid? As Rich said you could simply use a flat plate attached to the side of the tubing for mounting the reservoirs like I'm showing here:



Keep the top of the caps at or below the top of the square tube and you'll be good.

Jeff
 

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how high should I have the tops of my reservoirs to avoid interference? level with the top of the 3/4" tube? or below this?
I know that the fluid level needs to be higher than the MCs. I didn't know if there would be interference down the road with the pressure bleeder cap. it would be nice to be be able to replace the brake fluid without removing the body.
If you keep the top of the CNC reservoir caps at or below the top of the 3/4-inch hood surround tube, you'll clear the body and hood just fine. Also remember you can't mount them too far forward or you'll interfere with the hood gas shocks. I'd recommend 10-inches max from the front of the footbox to the front of the reservoirs. Less is fine. I typically mount them back a little more than that.

In this location they have wide open access for bleeding, checking and adding fluid, etc. Even if they weren't, I wouldn't recommend thinking of body removal as a maintenance task. Even if your reservoirs weren't so easily accessible, e.g. under the fender or under the windshield cowl like some, there are creative ways to deal with that. Once your build is done, removing the body is still technically possible of course. But it's not something to be taken lightly or for anything other than major reasons. Once you start hanging everything on there (windshield, roll bar(s), side pipes, lights, doors, trunk lid, hood, quick jacks, splash guards, and more) you'll understand why I say that.
 
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